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Lucy Dearlove: This is Lecker.

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I'm Lucy Dearlove.

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This month I'm releasing a very
small series about contemporary

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personal and memoir writing
within the loose parameters of

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food. In the previous episode
with Rebecca Johnson and Angela

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Hui, Rebecca talked about the
limitations of categorizing

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writing as 'food writing'. For -
among many reasons - it can feel

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diminutive. The book I'm talking
about in this episode, I think,

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is a great example of why genre
categorisation of any kind - but

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particularly within personal
writing - can be at best

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limiting and at worst pointless

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Thea Lenarduzzi: Elderly
women...women generally

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food...migrants...weeds...these
are all things that have

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generally been overlooked or not
considered worthy of scrutiny.

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You know, how many books are
there about great men who did

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great things and how many other
about a grandmother who no one's

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ever heard of?

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Lucy Dearlove: This is Thea
Lenarduzzi, whose book

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Dandelions came out last month.
Dandelions is not really a food

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book - if we're going to lean
into the categorisation - but

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food is a central theme within
it. The book follows the history

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of Thea's family and their
movement and migration between

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England and Italy over the past
decades and generations. At the

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heart is Thea's nonna Dirce with
her stories weaving the fabric

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of Thea's childhood and family
life. The dandelions of the

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title appear throughout the book
as a recurring motif, most

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frequently on the table at
family meals. We first meet

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Dirce on the first page of the
book, picking dandelion leaves

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at the side of the road in 1950s
Manchester and stuffing them

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into a bag to take home and cook
and eat. Thea describes those

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around looking askance at her,
wondering what on earth she's

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doing with those weeds.

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So much of personal writing in
food focuses on heritage and

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family - and understandably so.
But down no doubt to the very

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white middle class status quo,
there can be a tendency towards

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simplification: of dishes or
even a narrative, a family's

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history. What Dandelions does so
effectively is capture how much

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of people's lives rests in the
spaces in between; resisting

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categorisation and definition,
and even slipping between fact

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and fiction. But in a way that
remains always true and always

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significant. Even in the so
called mundanity of everyday

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life.

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To begin, I asked Thea - having
in mind this heritage of her

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family's movement between
England and Italy - to talk

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about her own relationship with
food and with cooking.

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Thea Lenarduzzi: I suppose if I
tell you about the first thing

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that I ever learned to cook, it
sort of sums up my life. So

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under supervision, I was
probably about 10. And it was a

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tomato sauce for pasta. But
ironically, seeing as I was born

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and raised living at the time in
Italy, I followed a recipe

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in...it was in one of my mom's
old English cookbooks from like

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the 1970s. So that kind of weird
Italian English hybrid started

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started pretty early on and I'd
love to say that it was a

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cookbook you know, that was by
someone fully vetted or you

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know, respected like the silver
spoon or Elizabeth David but I

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mean, I think it was probably
one that came through with, like

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the Reader's Digest or
something. My my Liverpudlian,

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Nana, her mum, my mum's mum
would have probably given her

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when she set off for university.
I mean, I know it can't have

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been that bad because I don't
think it included anything like

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garlic paste or garlic powder.
But yeah, probably wasn't the

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most legitimate pasta sauce
you've ever heard of.

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Lucy Dearlove: And was there any
sort of interaction between

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those two older generations of
your family? So I guess like

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like your nonna and then and
then your mum's mum, your

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grandma on that side? Did they
ever sort of encounter each

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other in terms of cooking or
food?

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Thea Lenarduzzi: Well, I suppose
what they had in common, I mean,

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when I think about it, when I
think about my, my kind of food

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passions, they probably are both
on both sides centered around my

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grandmother, so that split you
know, split down the middle

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exactly along the lines of my
heritage almost. On the one

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hand, there is the kind of
simple rusticity I suppose of my

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nonna's cooking in Italy, where
everything was homemade and you

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know, tended to take ages
usually from homegrown roots as

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well and they'd be like gnocchi
with a ragu or polenta with some

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kind of slow cooked beast, you
know, often dropped off by a

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friend from the mountains and
you know, it would have been

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boar or deer or goat or
something and courgettes and

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carrots which she'd grown
herself and she'd soften them

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for ages over a low heat and
then there'd be some wild grass

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or other which was always wilted
and in a plate of its own. And

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then on the other hand, there
was my English side, my English,

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Nana's cooking, which I mean by
the time I was I was born and

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old enough to know what was
going on it was quite heavily

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influenced by Marks and Spencers
you know, it was a lot of

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convenience and you know, little
luxuries. So there'd be you

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know, fun things like dolly
mixtures and prawn cocktails not

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together. Obviously. That would
have been just weird. But um,

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yeah, I guess my favourite...the
similarity between the two

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grandmas was that my favorite
kind of cooking of my English

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grandma was also a kind of
simple, simple style. It was

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probably stuff that was slightly
adapted from war food, I guess,

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you know, she'd it was very
frugal, so she'd maybe melt some

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really mild cheddar in a shallow
oven dish with milk. And then

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you just soak ans scoop bread
around in this sloppy, stringy

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mess. It's called Pobs. I mean,
anyone from the North will

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probably know what Pobs is. And
there's a sweet version as well.

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But ours was always the cheesy
milky version...or baked potato

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with, with corned beef, you
know, and loads of butter. Just

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I mean, my Nana was obsessed
with butter, I think she sort of

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spent the rest of her life
making up for wartime rationing

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by just...she would stockpile
it. And that sort of rubbed off

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on me to be honest, I'm, I'm
also quite obsessed with butter.

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But in both cases, both
grandmas, I never ever saw a

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recipe. And so I don't cook from
recipes, either. So many of the

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dishes that my nonna especially
would make. I mean, my, my

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English grandma wouldn't dream
of, of picking weeds from the

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side of the road. But my Italian
grandma... so much of the

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cooking that she did, so many of
the ingredients that she used

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were, if not grown herself than
just grown wild, so there'd be

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[...], which is...it's also
called sclopit, because of the

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noise that that...it's Bladder
Campion. And they have these

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little bell flowers. And if you
put it on your hand, and then

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you whack it down with your
other hand, it makes it kind of

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a popping noise. So that's why
it's called Sclopit in in

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Friulano, but these these are
wild grasses and nettles and,

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and things like that, that nonna
would always use and that's

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really hard to kind of work into
a recipe because it relies

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on...you can't just say you
know, pop down to the shop and

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buy X, Y and Z... it's sort
of...wait for them to be in

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season or find your little
foraging spot, go and gather and

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you can't really measure or
predict those sorts of things, I

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think

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Lucy Dearlove: And that's
obviously something that's very

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present in your book Dandelions,
like we open with a scene of

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dandelions being picked by the
side of the road as you're

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talking about... what was the
significance of kind of that

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plant that made you want to
include it throughout the book

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and kind of centre it around
that?

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Thea Lenarduzzi: I think I
couldn't have done it any other

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way really, I think...I mean,
food in general is such an

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integral part of of the fabric
of a family's life, even if it's

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not a foodie family in inverted
commas, you know, even if

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it's...even if you're having
chips and, and, and beans or

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whatever, that's still a part of
the fabric of your life and

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those dishes are on that table
for multiple reasons. But

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certainly in my family's life,
dandelions or whatever wilted

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wild grass you want to think
about, was involved. And

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dandelions...it's just the kind
of the eternal presence of it.

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It's, it's a dish that features
almost every dinner time because

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they're so abundant, and we all
love them. And they sort of say

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something about our family and
specifically about my Nonna. So

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I think when I started writing
Dandelions, I knew that I wanted

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- and this, this might sound
kind of pretentious - but I

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wanted to capture something of
the essence of Nonna and the

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dish of dandelions that
accompanies every dinner we

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have, it's almost the most
obvious way of doing that,

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because the mere thing of it, it
kind of opens out in a number of

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directions at once. It's a, it's
a really rich dish, not just

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nutritionally but in terms of
what it says about her and about

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us. So first is the story about
how she used to collect it when

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she was living in Manchester, in
the 1950s and 60s, she just

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emigrated there for the second
time. And you know, what it says

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about her character and the life
she was living at that time, a

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life on the margins of society,
I guess, as an Italian

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immigrant, then there's what it
tells us about where she came

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from, about the culture that she
had grown up, in the culture

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that knew how to how to use
these ingredients how to how to

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forage for, for one thing or
another that was that tended to

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be shunned by the more - again
in inverted commas - developed

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society that she had moved into
in England. So it kind of...the

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dish emphasises her foreignness
and her desire to, to carry on

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in the customs that she grew up
with, you know, not in some

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grand sense, more subconscious
than that, you know, her

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stomach, her stomach needed
these greens. It was the most

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natural thing in the world to
her, she sees them a great free

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food...I'll pick it I'll take it
and for dinner, you know, she

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maintains to this day that
dandelions are a cure for all

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all ills. And then for me as a
writer, dandelions sort of sort

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of offers itself up as a ready
made motif, you know, like a

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ready meal if you, if you'd
like, but it's just like, laden

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with with like significance you
know? So I started thinking

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about dandelions more broadly.
What are they? What's their life

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cycle? How do they work? How do
they pollinate? How do they, you

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know, what, what's their
lifecycle? I'd never thought

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about it and you know, what do
they mean? And what have they

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meant in different times in
different places to different

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people? And, you know, this is a
dish that can either bring us

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together as it does in my
family, but it also sets us

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apart it shows up the divisions
between people and cultures on

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the one hand, who who look at
dandelions and recognize that

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they're a deeply nutritious free
food. So not nasty, it's... to

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gather them and take them home
for the family. And the people

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on the other side who who look
at her like she's she's a

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nutter. You know, she, what's
she doing ferreting around in,

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in the mud? Has she lost
something? Has she lost her

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mind? You know, I doubt any of
the people in Manchester would

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have looked at her and thought,
Oh, right, yeah, she's, she's

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gathering....gathering
dandelions. And yeah, I mean, I

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was sort of reminded of it a few
years ago, I was walking on

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Hackney Marshes with a friend
and, and we were just walking

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around, and people were playing
fetch with their dogs and all

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the usual stuff. And then we
saw...it was just a group of, of

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Indian women. And they were they
had plastic bags, and they were

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stooping and gathering, stooping
and gathering and I was like,

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Oh, I wonder what they're
gathering. I wonder if it's

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dandelions. So we went over and
we said, you know, what are you,

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what are you gathering? And they
said, Oh, it's mustard seed. You

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know, it's delicious. Take
it...sorry mustard grass, it's

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delicious. Take it. And they
gave us like a big bunch each

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and said, you know, go home,
wilt it down with a knob of

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butter and some salt. And so we
did. And it was delicious. And

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it was just that one moment, you
know, the gathering, the

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knowledge, the exchange, and
it's just bursting with story.

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So yeah, that's it. That's why
dandelions, that's what

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happened.

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Lucy Dearlove: Yeah, it is so
interesting, because they're so

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abundant here. But we just don't
have that kind of history or

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connection to them. Like, I
genuinely didn't know you could

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eat them pretty much until I
read the book, I was like, Huh,

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okay. Makes a lot of sense.
Because they were bitter, you

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know. They're a bitter weed.
Yeah. But it just never occurred

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to me. And yeah, but it seems it
seems so strange. I think

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especially given the kind of
current context of like, how, I

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guess like aspirational,
gathering food in that way is in

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some ways, that there's just
the, you know, that the response

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to when when Dirce was gathering
them, like it was so different.

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I don't know, I don't quite know
how to articulate it, this

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Thea Lenarduzzi: No, totally, I
mean, foraging became this

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progression.

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incredibly kind of chichi,
middle class thing to do in

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recent years, which, obviously,
my nonna and my family are just

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completely confused by. But it's
yeah, it's like it's gone full

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circle in the same way that you
know, peasant food always has

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done...it sort of started in the
most humble origins. And then,

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you know, the fact that polenta
is served in the finest

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restaurants now...again, my
family's like, what? Really?

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Wow, okay. I mean, I love
polenta. But you would never

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have seen it in a fancy
restaurant until relatively

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recently. And that's right. It's
a quite it's quite strange turn

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of events, I suppose.

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Lucy Dearlove: I think sometimes
there's a kind of portrayal as

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migration as this very, like one
way, permanent process, like

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it's very linear. And in in
Dandelions, there's this kind of

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like back and forth between
England and in Italy. I guess

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I'm just interested to know your
thoughts around like that

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portrayal of migration, and then
how you were writing about your

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own family? I mean, obviously,
you could only write about it in

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the way that it happens. And
that and that is the way that it

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was. But would you agree with
that? Do you think that is how

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migration tends to be portrayed?
Or is it a bit more complicated

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than that?

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Thea Lenarduzzi: You mean, that
it's pNortrayed in terms of

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clinging, you know, clinging to
its foods, and its cultures,

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rather than assimilating?

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Lucy Dearlove: No, more so that
when we talk about migration,

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it's that people move from one
country to another. And, you

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know, obviously, they choose to
kind of...it's natural that they

250
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would keep customs and cultures
from their country of origin.

251
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But there's, I feel like there's
less conversation about people

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then going back to their home
country. I mean, this could be I

253
00:14:07,730 --> 00:14:09,830
could be barking up completely
the wrong tree here. But it was

254
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something that really struck me
during the book that there is

255
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this like, kind of movement
throughout the book that isn't

256
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just like, we're going to a new
country. And that's, like,

257
00:14:19,700 --> 00:14:21,740
that's our new life, if that
makes sense.

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Thea Lenarduzzi: Well, I think
the thing was, I think the thing

259
00:14:23,700 --> 00:14:28,560
with how migration worked in my
family and continues to work in

260
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my family is that everything is
both... it's not one or the

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other. It's both and everything
in between. So so my Nonna...For

262
00:14:35,940 --> 00:14:41,250
example, she if you ask my Nonna
as my....so my husband once

263
00:14:41,250 --> 00:14:44,310
asked her...we'd...me and my
husband had been in Tuscany and

264
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then...we'd been there for like
five or six weeks. Then we went

265
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up to my Nonna from there. My
Nonna's in the Friuli, which is

266
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in north east, very close to the
Slovenian border. And so we were

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both kind of pumped full of the
joys of Tuscany like oh my gosh,

268
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isn't it beautiful? And you go
to the Friuli, the Friuli is

269
00:14:58,860 --> 00:15:01,440
beautiful, but it's a very
different landscape, it's flat.

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And it's not, you know, it's not
a must on the on the tourist

271
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circuit, I think it should be,
but not very many people visit

272
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there who aren't from there or
live near it. And so yeah, we

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were pumped full of Tuscany. And
my husband just talking to my

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00:15:16,740 --> 00:15:20,040
Nonna said, so Dirce, if you
could live anywhere in Italy,

275
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where would you live? And Nonna,
without missing a beat, just

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goes Manchester. So as though
Manchester is like a little

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enclave of Italy, or a
continuation of Italy. And I

278
00:15:30,900 --> 00:15:34,530
think in a way it was for her
because when she, when she lived

279
00:15:34,530 --> 00:15:37,650
there, she was in the Italian
community mostly. But also, I

280
00:15:37,650 --> 00:15:40,650
think it says something about
how a lot of the times

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00:15:40,650 --> 00:15:44,970
migration, it collapses, the
boundaries, it collapses the

282
00:15:44,970 --> 00:15:48,180
borders, so that you don't
really necessarily distinguish

283
00:15:48,180 --> 00:15:51,300
with where you came and where
you now are, where you came from

284
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and where you not now are or
vice versa. It's not about going

285
00:15:54,540 --> 00:15:57,540
this way, or that way. It's
about sort of existing across

286
00:15:57,540 --> 00:16:02,220
the place, across the places.
And I think my, in my nonna's

287
00:16:02,220 --> 00:16:06,360
mind, and for me as well, you
sort of your life sort of is

288
00:16:06,360 --> 00:16:09,570
split, but it's not that you
stop living one, when you leave

289
00:16:09,570 --> 00:16:13,080
that country, I've not stopped
living in Italy, just because I

290
00:16:13,290 --> 00:16:17,100
don't live there. If that makes
any sense. I'm still I'm still

291
00:16:17,100 --> 00:16:19,680
living a life that's sort of
ticking over over there. And

292
00:16:19,680 --> 00:16:23,220
then when I go back to Italy, as
I will be in a few weeks time,

293
00:16:23,250 --> 00:16:26,430
I'll just pick up where I left
off with that. Yeah, you know,

294
00:16:26,430 --> 00:16:29,850
certain stuff will feel slightly
out of place. And I'll, you

295
00:16:29,850 --> 00:16:32,130
know, maybe take me a while to
sort of switch back into

296
00:16:32,130 --> 00:16:38,190
certain, certain rhythms or
modes. But yeah, I think I think

297
00:16:38,190 --> 00:16:40,350
that's, I think that might be
what you're kind of putting your

298
00:16:40,350 --> 00:16:43,050
finger on when you when you say
about it's not backwards and

299
00:16:43,050 --> 00:16:46,200
forwards. It's not one or the
other. You're both?

300
00:16:46,450 --> 00:16:50,320
Lucy Dearlove: Yeah. Yeah, that
makes sense. Something else that

301
00:16:50,320 --> 00:16:53,920
is really apparent in the book
is the kind of blurring of like

302
00:16:53,920 --> 00:16:57,550
fact and a fiction that we
create around our own lives. And

303
00:16:57,550 --> 00:17:00,850
you're very transparent about
that. I think, maybe sometimes,

304
00:17:00,850 --> 00:17:03,850
like when you're talking about
your own family history, there

305
00:17:03,850 --> 00:17:07,930
is a temptation to present it as
fact. But I think the

306
00:17:07,930 --> 00:17:10,750
acknowledgement that you give
kind of throughout the book of

307
00:17:10,750 --> 00:17:14,350
like, I know that some of this
is embellished or like not true,

308
00:17:14,350 --> 00:17:18,220
or it's different to what she
told me last time or like it was

309
00:17:18,370 --> 00:17:20,410
that...Did you know that was
always going to be how you were

310
00:17:20,410 --> 00:17:21,340
writing it?

311
00:17:21,360 --> 00:17:23,430
Thea Lenarduzzi: It had to be
you know, it all came very

312
00:17:23,430 --> 00:17:26,340
naturally, organically I guess
just because you know, I'm very

313
00:17:26,340 --> 00:17:28,980
much my nonna's granddaughter,
I've grown up on her stories and

314
00:17:28,980 --> 00:17:31,350
they chop and change from
telling to telling, and you

315
00:17:31,350 --> 00:17:34,740
know, so I guess you know, like
to keep that food theme going,

316
00:17:34,740 --> 00:17:36,870
you always have to have a hefty
pinch of salt at hand when

317
00:17:36,870 --> 00:17:39,780
you're listening to anything
that comes out of Nonna's mouth,

318
00:17:39,780 --> 00:17:42,810
you know, I guess I've always
appreciated as a result how

319
00:17:42,840 --> 00:17:47,430
mercurial memory can be. How you
know, in one telling, this is my

320
00:17:47,460 --> 00:17:50,700
cousin and then the next it's,
it's my brother or you know,

321
00:17:50,730 --> 00:17:54,150
just chops and changes all the
time. And, you know, memories

322
00:17:54,150 --> 00:17:57,300
do... they shift and they shift
depending on on mood and, and

323
00:17:57,300 --> 00:18:01,020
context in any number of
elements. But I think even when

324
00:18:01,020 --> 00:18:05,340
they're not strictly true, you
know, they're not an exact

325
00:18:05,340 --> 00:18:08,130
reflection of what happened if
there could ever be such a

326
00:18:08,130 --> 00:18:11,430
thing, you know, that they may
be truer as a result, you know,

327
00:18:11,430 --> 00:18:14,580
they're true in a deeper sense
of the word. So like, reality

328
00:18:14,580 --> 00:18:17,430
and truth aren't the same thing.
It's a bit like, you know,

329
00:18:17,430 --> 00:18:21,150
Werner Herzog has this idea
about ecstatic truth he calls it

330
00:18:21,150 --> 00:18:25,620
and it's, it's sort of when
reality isn't true enough. He

331
00:18:25,620 --> 00:18:30,990
said something like...facts,
create norms. And truth creates

332
00:18:30,990 --> 00:18:33,750
light or truth creates
illumination. And it's that

333
00:18:33,750 --> 00:18:37,200
sometimes you need to draw on
the toolkit of fiction, to

334
00:18:37,200 --> 00:18:39,690
create that illumination. We all
do this all the time. You know,

335
00:18:39,690 --> 00:18:41,730
that's how that's what happens
when we remember things when we

336
00:18:41,730 --> 00:18:46,140
tell ourselves, what happened.
And when we tell that to other

337
00:18:46,140 --> 00:18:48,360
people as well, is that like,
there's this, he said, there's

338
00:18:48,360 --> 00:18:51,540
like a deeper strata of truth.
And it can only be reached

339
00:18:51,540 --> 00:18:55,650
through fabrication, and
imagination and stylization. And

340
00:18:55,680 --> 00:18:59,460
so then you accept that...if you
accept that to be true, which I

341
00:18:59,460 --> 00:19:04,920
do. The next question then has
to be why, like, why is the

342
00:19:04,920 --> 00:19:08,610
story being told this way? What
purpose does it serve the teller

343
00:19:08,640 --> 00:19:11,640
or the listener? Because after
all, memory, like memory is

344
00:19:11,640 --> 00:19:15,240
story, memory is a fiction in
the oldest order. That's how we

345
00:19:15,240 --> 00:19:18,180
understand our past our present,
and we prepare for the future.

346
00:19:18,180 --> 00:19:21,720
And so when you're talking about
family stories, or like when

347
00:19:21,720 --> 00:19:23,850
you're talking about in a
family, in a broader sense,

348
00:19:23,850 --> 00:19:26,160
wondering about a nation's
stories, because a nation is

349
00:19:26,160 --> 00:19:29,490
basically a dysfunctional
family, you know, it's not just

350
00:19:29,490 --> 00:19:32,040
about the individual, we all
have a deeply vested interest, I

351
00:19:32,040 --> 00:19:35,040
think in in these matters in
asking those questions and

352
00:19:35,040 --> 00:19:40,890
asking, you know, what kind of
truth is this? You know, is it

353
00:19:40,920 --> 00:19:44,610
reality or is it something else,
you know, how do those two

354
00:19:44,610 --> 00:19:48,600
things line up or not as the
case may be? And what does it

355
00:19:48,600 --> 00:19:49,200
tell us?

356
00:19:49,410 --> 00:19:51,510
Lucy Dearlove: I think maybe my
favourite example of that in the

357
00:19:51,510 --> 00:19:55,230
book is when you talk about
learning to make gnocchi with

358
00:19:55,230 --> 00:20:00,540
your sister, and then you're
nonna like later can pletely

359
00:20:00,570 --> 00:20:03,900
denies the story that she told
you about how she learnt it. And

360
00:20:03,900 --> 00:20:07,350
yeah, completely different story
about that she'd learned it in a

361
00:20:07,350 --> 00:20:10,260
restaurant she hadn't learnt it
from from her mother was it at

362
00:20:10,260 --> 00:20:10,740
all? Yeah,

363
00:20:10,770 --> 00:20:12,540
Thea Lenarduzzi: exactly. She
said she didn't learn it from

364
00:20:12,540 --> 00:20:15,120
her mother. Because I mean, the
relationship between Nonna and

365
00:20:15,120 --> 00:20:20,850
her mother Novella was difficult
to put it mildly. And yeah, we,

366
00:20:21,360 --> 00:20:23,730
we know, what we think we know
is that she learned it from her

367
00:20:23,730 --> 00:20:26,370
Nonna Novella. And again, it
would have been in a not in a

368
00:20:26,400 --> 00:20:29,460
reading a recipe sort of way it
would have been observing and

369
00:20:29,460 --> 00:20:32,910
observing. And then when we when
we asked her about it when we

370
00:20:32,910 --> 00:20:35,190
just mentioned it in passing,
like, oh, because of course you

371
00:20:35,190 --> 00:20:38,490
learned to do it this way
because of your mom, she, as you

372
00:20:38,490 --> 00:20:40,560
said, completely blocked it. She
was like absolutely not No, I

373
00:20:40,560 --> 00:20:42,810
learned it, I learned it in a
restaurant that I worked in when

374
00:20:42,810 --> 00:20:46,500
I first moved back to Italy in
the 70s. And it was actually

375
00:20:46,500 --> 00:20:52,140
because my Nonna uses her index
finger to put the grooves in the

376
00:20:52,140 --> 00:20:55,200
gnocchi the little kind of pools
where, where the sauce will,

377
00:20:55,200 --> 00:20:58,530
will go in and sit once you've
cooked them, so they each one

378
00:20:58,530 --> 00:21:01,680
has the imprint of her index
finger in it, which I think is

379
00:21:01,710 --> 00:21:05,220
just lovely. But I said, well,
that's kind of you know,

380
00:21:05,220 --> 00:21:07,860
sometimes it can get a bit messy
because you can catch it with

381
00:21:07,860 --> 00:21:11,070
your nail. And then you can tear
the pasta, which you don't want

382
00:21:11,070 --> 00:21:13,890
to do if you just press a bit
too hard. So how come you don't

383
00:21:13,890 --> 00:21:17,370
use your knuckle like, like your
mum did? And her face, you know,

384
00:21:17,370 --> 00:21:20,340
sort of set against me, you
know, she was like, Oh, my, you

385
00:21:20,340 --> 00:21:25,200
know, my Nan, my, my, my mum
didn't do that. She didn't do

386
00:21:25,200 --> 00:21:27,390
that. She didn't teach me and it
was just a weird moment. I was

387
00:21:27,390 --> 00:21:30,420
like, okay, that's how you want
to tell this story today. So

388
00:21:30,420 --> 00:21:33,990
I'll respect that. But I've made
a little note in my notebook.

389
00:21:35,130 --> 00:21:37,980
Lucy Dearlove: Yeah, yeah. And
that is really hard to navigate

390
00:21:37,980 --> 00:21:41,610
with someone that you love. And
you know very well and and

391
00:21:41,640 --> 00:21:43,500
because also like, yeah, like
you're saying, like, it

392
00:21:43,860 --> 00:21:46,560
doesn't...just because it's not
the truth that you heard

393
00:21:46,560 --> 00:21:48,540
earlier, doesn't mean it's not
real.

394
00:21:48,540 --> 00:21:50,100
Thea Lenarduzzi: Yeah, exactly.
Well, doesn't mean that it's not

395
00:21:50,100 --> 00:21:53,010
full of truth and the truth of
that of that particular instance

396
00:21:53,010 --> 00:21:55,980
is that really conveys the truth
of the difficulty of the

397
00:21:55,980 --> 00:21:58,560
relationship between Dirce and
her mother Novella.

398
00:21:58,770 --> 00:22:02,370
Lucy Dearlove: Yeah, yeah,
totally. I think something else

399
00:22:02,370 --> 00:22:05,430
that I really wanted to ask you
about was what you think about

400
00:22:05,430 --> 00:22:07,650
the kind of...and you write
about this a little bit in the

401
00:22:07,680 --> 00:22:11,160
book...the idea of the the Nonna
as like this, you talk about it

402
00:22:11,160 --> 00:22:14,880
as a byword for timeless purity,
which I thought encapsulated so

403
00:22:14,880 --> 00:22:17,820
much about like, even in this
country where I feel like the

404
00:22:17,820 --> 00:22:21,270
approach to Italian food is
sometimes like, basic at best.

405
00:22:22,260 --> 00:22:25,020
There is this kind of sense of
like, you know, stuff like Pasta

406
00:22:25,020 --> 00:22:28,050
Grannies and things like that.
Like there's this real like,

407
00:22:28,080 --> 00:22:31,620
Okay, this is where we learn
like real true cooking from...

408
00:22:32,370 --> 00:22:35,100
How do you feel about that
perception of a Nonna?

409
00:22:35,000 --> 00:22:37,485
Thea Lenarduzzi: Well, I mean,
that so much of that is about

410
00:22:37,543 --> 00:22:41,126
almost like the marketization of
women, of Nonne. You know, if

411
00:22:41,184 --> 00:22:44,767
you buy if you pick up a packet
of biscuits, and it says, this

412
00:22:44,825 --> 00:22:48,524
is Nonna'ss recipe, you're like,
Ah, we're in safe hands, great.

413
00:22:48,582 --> 00:22:51,876
You know, there's nothing
tainted here. It's all pure and

414
00:22:51,934 --> 00:22:55,229
wholesome. That's, that's
marketing. But it's all kind of

415
00:22:55,286 --> 00:22:58,985
preying on this, this archetype.
You know, it's a character of a

416
00:22:59,043 --> 00:23:02,569
Nonna. You can almost see her
almost as like a, like a Dolmii

417
00:23:02,627 --> 00:23:06,152
puppet, you know, Dolmio, which
is, I think, made in Holland.

418
00:23:06,210 --> 00:23:09,562
But no, so she's like this
benevolent old woman who exists

419
00:23:09,620 --> 00:23:12,510
to feed the family, to
selflessly provide and then

420
00:23:12,568 --> 00:23:16,035
presumably, sit there silently
dishing it out, while the men

421
00:23:16,093 --> 00:23:19,503
talk about important things, you
know, in my experience, an

422
00:23:19,561 --> 00:23:23,087
aspect of that is true, yes, it
takes hours for Nonna to make

423
00:23:23,145 --> 00:23:26,612
her delicious food, you know,
for one meal, which will often

424
00:23:26,670 --> 00:23:30,311
not be commented on by anyone,
because it's always... it's just

425
00:23:30,369 --> 00:23:33,779
always there. We take it for
granted to a great degree, and

426
00:23:33,837 --> 00:23:37,478
also her husband, my Nonno, my
granddad, he did make very clear

427
00:23:37,536 --> 00:23:41,235
his discontent if lunch was not
on the table at noon on the dot.

428
00:23:41,293 --> 00:23:44,761
But I suppose what I wanted to
do was to pick that archetype

429
00:23:44,818 --> 00:23:48,344
apart, you know, to, to also
give her back the power that she

430
00:23:48,402 --> 00:23:51,696
has in that, you know, when she
makes her tiramisu or her

431
00:23:51,754 --> 00:23:55,338
gnocchi, it's, it's a triumph.
She isn't passive. She's alive,

432
00:23:55,395 --> 00:23:58,805
you know, she's choosing to
impress us. She's reminding us,

433
00:23:58,863 --> 00:24:02,504
she's choosing to remind us of
her indispensability. And that's

434
00:24:02,562 --> 00:24:06,030
also why she doesn't ever give
us the full recipe, you know,

435
00:24:06,088 --> 00:24:09,729
she always leaves something out,
so no one can replace her. And

436
00:24:09,787 --> 00:24:13,312
you know, the cooking, it's all
part of her scene setting and

437
00:24:13,370 --> 00:24:16,896
the table is her space, even if
she's silent, which generally

438
00:24:16,954 --> 00:24:20,133
she isn't. She's totally in
charge. You know, she's the

439
00:24:20,190 --> 00:24:23,369
director of the film of our
family. And these days, she

440
00:24:23,427 --> 00:24:26,779
tends to leave quite soon after
we've all eaten, sometimes

441
00:24:26,837 --> 00:24:30,305
before we finish because she
gets tired. She hardly eats any

442
00:24:30,363 --> 00:24:33,888
more herself, you know, she's
nearly 97, she's gonna be 97 In

443
00:24:33,946 --> 00:24:37,298
a few weeks time and, and when
when she gets up to go, the

444
00:24:37,356 --> 00:24:40,708
whole thing sags. The centre
drops out, we all feel weird,

445
00:24:40,766 --> 00:24:44,350
but I think it's that thing of
elderly women, women generally,

446
00:24:44,407 --> 00:24:48,049
food, migrants, weeds. These are
all things that have generally

447
00:24:48,106 --> 00:24:51,170
been overlooked or not
considered worthy of scrutiny.

448
00:24:51,227 --> 00:24:54,580
You know, how many books are
there about great men who did

449
00:24:54,637 --> 00:24:58,221
great things and how many are
there about a grandmother who no

450
00:24:58,279 --> 00:25:01,515
one's ever heard of...is that
because there's nothing of

451
00:25:01,573 --> 00:25:05,099
interest in that woman's life,
you know about her experiences

452
00:25:05,157 --> 00:25:08,162
and her thoughts and her
feelings? I don't, I mean I

453
00:25:08,220 --> 00:25:11,225
don't think so. I don't
think...I don't think anyone

454
00:25:11,283 --> 00:25:14,809
could argue that really. So,
yeah, I just I guess I wanted to

455
00:25:14,866 --> 00:25:18,103
give her back her dimensions.
And part of that was about

456
00:25:18,161 --> 00:25:21,571
considering all of her stories,
considering her food in the

457
00:25:21,629 --> 00:25:24,981
round, you know, not just to
talk about how, how delicious

458
00:25:25,039 --> 00:25:28,333
these dishes are, which they
definitely are, but to think

459
00:25:28,391 --> 00:25:32,090
about why she cooks, the things
she does, why she cooks them how

460
00:25:32,148 --> 00:25:35,384
she does, what they tell us
about her, and the life that

461
00:25:35,442 --> 00:25:39,083
she's lived and the people and
the places that she's known, why

462
00:25:39,141 --> 00:25:42,494
they matter, why all of her
stories matter, what they link

463
00:25:42,551 --> 00:25:45,904
to, why do we need to keep
telling them? Why do we need to

464
00:25:45,961 --> 00:25:47,060
carry them with us?

465
00:25:47,960 --> 00:25:50,360
Lucy Dearlove: I feel like I've
really noticed more recently,

466
00:25:50,660 --> 00:25:53,390
being interested in kind of like
domesticity and like the space

467
00:25:53,390 --> 00:25:57,050
of the kitchen, within people's
homes over history, how little

468
00:25:57,050 --> 00:26:00,530
has actually been written about
that over time, and just

469
00:26:00,620 --> 00:26:04,040
that...you're so right like that
overlooking of women's space,

470
00:26:04,040 --> 00:26:07,460
migrants' space like that kind
of Yeah, it's yeah, it's so

471
00:26:07,460 --> 00:26:10,520
true. And it's almost like
the...people talk about everyday

472
00:26:10,520 --> 00:26:14,390
life as like, like...mundane is
often a word that comes up. But

473
00:26:14,390 --> 00:26:17,720
like, there's actually...even
the sort of things that happen

474
00:26:17,720 --> 00:26:20,840
in the book, like people going
to work, people moving house,

475
00:26:20,840 --> 00:26:24,200
like people...there's so much
significance in all of it.

476
00:26:24,000 --> 00:26:26,610
Thea Lenarduzzi: Yeah, there's
so much living in the living,

477
00:26:26,640 --> 00:26:29,340
that we don't, that we don't
that we don't consider. And I

478
00:26:29,340 --> 00:26:32,310
think when I think about my
nonna's kitchen in Italy, I

479
00:26:32,310 --> 00:26:34,800
think it's quite interesting
thinking about domestic spaces

480
00:26:34,800 --> 00:26:38,040
because she has her little tiny,
tiny little galley kitchen,

481
00:26:38,280 --> 00:26:41,760
which has not changed at all
since she had... since they

482
00:26:41,760 --> 00:26:46,530
built that house in the 19, late
1960s and finished in 1971. It's

483
00:26:46,560 --> 00:26:50,070
exactly the same...the oranges,
the browns, the sunflowers, but

484
00:26:50,070 --> 00:26:52,770
she's got that little galley
kitchen and then there's a kind

485
00:26:52,770 --> 00:26:57,750
of a half wall and a big faux
satin orange curtain covered in

486
00:26:57,750 --> 00:27:00,990
really busy flowers. And then
you're into the living room

487
00:27:01,080 --> 00:27:06,150
where there's a sofa, a TV, the
cupboard with so much so much

488
00:27:06,150 --> 00:27:09,630
chaos is barely contained. And
then you've got a stove with

489
00:27:09,630 --> 00:27:12,870
four or five rings on it a wood
burning stove that she's feeding

490
00:27:12,900 --> 00:27:16,410
all day you work through the
summer, yeah. All through the

491
00:27:16,410 --> 00:27:19,740
day, all through the seasons,
whether it's summer or anything,

492
00:27:19,740 --> 00:27:22,320
it's always on. And I think
that's what she's done.

493
00:27:22,320 --> 00:27:25,650
Actually. She's She broke up
that space. She's not confined

494
00:27:25,650 --> 00:27:27,960
in the kitchen while everyone
else is in the living space.

495
00:27:28,110 --> 00:27:31,290
She's in and out, the curtain is
never ever closed. It's always

496
00:27:31,290 --> 00:27:34,680
half open at least Yeah, she's
collapsed that boundary in the

497
00:27:34,680 --> 00:27:36,990
same way as she collapsed the
boundary between Italy and

498
00:27:36,990 --> 00:27:40,710
England. She moves freely. And
you know, we may sit still but

499
00:27:40,710 --> 00:27:43,800
she is always backwards and
forwards, spooning something out

500
00:27:43,800 --> 00:27:47,430
here, stirring something over
there, clattering around. You

501
00:27:47,430 --> 00:27:50,580
can't confine her. She won't be,
she won't be hidden away in a

502
00:27:50,580 --> 00:27:53,400
domestic space. Thank you very
much. She's, she's in front of

503
00:27:53,400 --> 00:27:56,370
the curtain. She's on stage all
the time, where she belongs,

504
00:27:56,370 --> 00:27:58,470
quite frankly. And she knows
that.

505
00:28:08,610 --> 00:28:11,820
Lucy Dearlove: So just one final
thing to end and if you know,

506
00:28:11,850 --> 00:28:14,910
fair enough, if you want to not
give it away, but I was

507
00:28:14,910 --> 00:28:18,540
wondering if you would share how
you would prepare and cook

508
00:28:18,540 --> 00:28:19,500
dandelions.

509
00:28:19,750 --> 00:28:22,270
Thea Lenarduzzi: I mean, it's
it's very boring. It's very,

510
00:28:22,270 --> 00:28:26,050
very simple. But I think that's
that's the key to some of the

511
00:28:26,050 --> 00:28:29,380
best food....you just absolutely
gather them wherever you gather

512
00:28:29,380 --> 00:28:32,200
them depending on where you
gather and gather them wash them

513
00:28:32,200 --> 00:28:36,910
particularly well. And you boil
them or steam them you could

514
00:28:36,910 --> 00:28:40,930
steam them but yeah, boil them
or steam them for 15,20 minutes

515
00:28:41,170 --> 00:28:44,830
in salty water, drain them but
not too much. You don't want

516
00:28:44,830 --> 00:28:47,560
them to be dry. You want to keep
a lot of that moisture. Then put

517
00:28:47,560 --> 00:28:51,130
them back into the pan, so keep
the pan warm with a little oil,

518
00:28:51,160 --> 00:28:54,280
little olive oil, which my nonna
always likes to remind me when

519
00:28:54,280 --> 00:28:57,100
she was in England used to have
to buy it in the pharmacy. And

520
00:28:57,100 --> 00:29:00,760
it was probably horrible stuff.
But serve it with Yeah, with

521
00:29:00,760 --> 00:29:05,290
that oil warm and then squeeze a
bit of lemon on the end of salt.

522
00:29:05,680 --> 00:29:07,990
I guess you could add a knob of
butter if you were my English

523
00:29:07,990 --> 00:29:11,590
Nana, not that she would have
eaten dandelions. But there you

524
00:29:11,590 --> 00:29:13,810
go. That's really that's really
it. You can also actually can

525
00:29:13,810 --> 00:29:16,000
also parboil the roots, because
you know, when you pull up a

526
00:29:16,000 --> 00:29:19,660
dandelion, if you pull the whole
thing out, you pull it sometimes

527
00:29:19,660 --> 00:29:23,080
it's half a metre long, the
white roots that comes up and

528
00:29:23,080 --> 00:29:27,580
it's really gnarled so you can
parboil the roots, chop them up

529
00:29:27,580 --> 00:29:30,580
and preserve them in vinegar.
And they're they're really rich

530
00:29:30,580 --> 00:29:33,640
source of of all sorts of
goodnesses

531
00:29:34,050 --> 00:29:35,790
Lucy Dearlove: what and what's
the texture of them?

532
00:29:36,510 --> 00:29:38,100
Thea Lenarduzzi: Depending on
how much you boil them and you

533
00:29:38,100 --> 00:29:40,620
don't want to boil them too much
they've got a nice bite to them.

534
00:29:41,160 --> 00:29:43,920
Yeah, they've got a little bit
of a crunch a bit like You know

535
00:29:43,950 --> 00:29:47,820
Giardinera, which is yeah
pickled carrots and celery and

536
00:29:47,820 --> 00:29:51,270
bits of cauliflower that similar
sort of a bit al dente you want

537
00:29:51,270 --> 00:29:53,760
them to be and then yeah,
preserve them in vinegar and and

538
00:29:53,760 --> 00:29:58,260
then you just have them you
know, as a side with cheese, or

539
00:29:58,260 --> 00:30:02,640
I mean anything, anything goes
with cheese, but Yeah, that's it

540
00:30:02,640 --> 00:30:04,890
just have them have them in a
jar on your table when you're

541
00:30:04,890 --> 00:30:10,080
having anything really. You
could start the day with then

542
00:30:10,080 --> 00:30:11,160
that'd be a bit weird, but

543
00:30:12,500 --> 00:30:14,450
Lucy Dearlove: I'm not sure I
have the stomach for pickles.

544
00:30:14,450 --> 00:30:18,170
First thing. We'll probably do I
know maybe I need to up my game.

545
00:30:18,320 --> 00:30:21,290
Well, I'm definitely going to
cook these dandelions. Maybe I'm

546
00:30:21,290 --> 00:30:24,140
maybe not going to collect them
like on the side of the A2.

547
00:30:24,200 --> 00:30:26,000
Thea Lenarduzzi: No, no, maybe
don't do that

548
00:30:26,390 --> 00:30:28,580
Lucy Dearlove: Maybe they'd be
like in a nice park somewhere.

549
00:30:28,610 --> 00:30:30,770
Thea Lenarduzzi: Yeah, exactly.
Send me a picture I'd like to

550
00:30:30,800 --> 00:30:31,610
I'd love to see them

551
00:30:38,900 --> 00:30:41,690
Lucy Dearlove: Thanks so much to
Thea Lenarduzzi For this really

552
00:30:41,690 --> 00:30:44,840
generous interview that I
actually found really moving

553
00:30:44,840 --> 00:30:49,220
both to record and to listen
back to. There's so much living

554
00:30:49,220 --> 00:30:56,480
in the living. It's true. Let's
remember it. Dandelions is out

555
00:30:56,480 --> 00:30:59,840
now published by Fitzcarraldo
and available in all good

556
00:30:59,840 --> 00:31:03,170
bookshops. I really urge you to
get a copy and read it. It's

557
00:31:03,170 --> 00:31:07,310
just a beautiful book. It's
incredibly moving. And it made

558
00:31:07,310 --> 00:31:09,980
me think about kind of the
stories that we tell within

559
00:31:09,980 --> 00:31:13,160
families in a completely
different way. But it's also

560
00:31:13,160 --> 00:31:17,630
just really funny and lively.
And Thea is a fantastic writer.

561
00:31:17,630 --> 00:31:24,620
I love it so much. Get a copy.
You can support Lecker on

562
00:31:24,620 --> 00:31:27,530
Patreon for three pounds a month
and get access to a bonus

563
00:31:27,530 --> 00:31:31,490
episode every month. As I
mentioned, the previous episode,

564
00:31:31,520 --> 00:31:36,140
this month's is going to include
some extra bits from each

565
00:31:36,140 --> 00:31:39,560
episode released this month,
specifically around recipes and

566
00:31:39,560 --> 00:31:41,270
their role within personal
writing. There's going to be

567
00:31:41,270 --> 00:31:45,320
kind of a whole other separate
episode around that. And it's

568
00:31:45,320 --> 00:31:49,340
going to be really good. If I do
say so myself. Subscribe if

569
00:31:49,340 --> 00:31:53,180
you'd like to hear it. Lecker is
entirely listener funded. So

570
00:31:53,180 --> 00:31:56,090
patrons subscriptions are just
really important in me being

571
00:31:56,090 --> 00:32:01,250
able to continue to make the
podcast music is by bluedot

572
00:32:01,250 --> 00:32:04,790
sessions. Thanks to Ben
McDonald, who is Lecker's

573
00:32:04,790 --> 00:32:07,910
Resident illustrator. You can
see his work on the Lecker

574
00:32:07,910 --> 00:32:13,310
Instagram and Twitter at like a
podcast. There is one more

575
00:32:13,310 --> 00:32:16,940
episodes come this month around
this theme that I've been kind

576
00:32:16,940 --> 00:32:21,230
of tracing through different
books and conversations about

577
00:32:21,230 --> 00:32:24,800
how writers approach telling
personal stories through food.

578
00:32:25,160 --> 00:32:28,430
Make sure you're subscribed on
your podcast platform of choice

579
00:32:28,430 --> 00:32:31,640
and you can listen as soon as
they're released. Thanks for

580
00:32:31,640 --> 00:32:34,070
listening. I will be back in
your feed very soon.

