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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Hello and
welcome to the National Trust

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podcast. I'm Michelle Douglass
podcast producer and wildlife

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enthusiast at the National
Trust. Today, we're traveling to

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Blakeney Point on England's East
Coast to discover how a

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seemingly inhospitable four mile
shingle spit is famous for one

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of the UK's biggest and
fluffiest natural phenomenons

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every winter.

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But in this special episode,
we're following Blakeney

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National Nature Reserve through
every season to uncover the

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sights, spectacles and secrets
of life on this rugged and

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unique landscape.

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And just as a heads up, this is
nature at its fullest, so at

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times things get a little bit
gritty.

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Every year in deepest darkest
winter, this flat unassuming

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pebble shoreline becomes the
stage for one of the UK's

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greatest shows.

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Visitors peer from ferries to
catch a glimpse of the scene.

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Phones held high and cameras
clicking to capture the action

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unfolding on the beach.

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The coastline is packed with
around 4000 plump, white coated,

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impossibly fluffy, seal pups.

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It's Grey Seal pupping season.
And Blakeney Point in Norfolk is

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one of the world's most
important sites for the

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Charismatic marine mammals.

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But what most people don't get
to see is the story behind this

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spectacle each winter.

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Blakeney National Nature Reserve
is not only part of a designated

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area of outstanding natural
beauty, but a remarkable

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conservation success story.

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And the best way to discover
what makes this place so unique

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is to journey through a year on
this remote stretch of coast

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through the eyes of the people
who look after work and even

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live out here through the
changing seasons.

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This story really starts on a
cold February day.

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I'm in a land rover with ranger
Duncan Halpin and I'm feeling a

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little nervous about the
essential but grisly job we're

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here to do.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: We're driving
along Blakeney Point. There's

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about three miles of shingle
stretching out in front of us,

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salt marsh gleaming an almost
golden colour in the low

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sunlight and then the North Sea,
which is looking almost

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temptingly blue.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Duncan pulls
up the land rover and attaches a

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trailer to the back. We're met
by a hardy band of rangers and

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volunteers here to help with the
task.

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The kit we'll need for the job
is handed around the group. It's

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pretty basic. A pair of gloves
and some thick black bin liners.

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Then we set off.

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We've come a little bit back
past the dunes to the marshes.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: There is a great
example of why we doing it just

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up here.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: The annual
seal carcass clear up is vital

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conservation work here at
Blakeney. Sadly, not all the

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seal pups born during pupping
season will make it beyond the

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first few crucial weeks of life.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: A very... ripe
carcass in front of us, let's

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say, and you can actually see
all the little rat prints coming

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down from the burrow and then
around the carcass. So the rats

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in that borough have just been
feeding on this carcass. So

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they'll just be able to
multiply.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: If the
carcasses were left here, they'd

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provide food for the rat
population to grow. And too many

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rats could threaten the huge
colony of Terns that in a few

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months will also use Blakeney as
their breeding grounds since

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rats will eat bird eggs and even
chicks.

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So this grim task of removing
the seal carcasses is actually

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clearing the way for new
wildlife to thrive here.

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They've got a good chance of
survival, but sadly, this one

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didn't quite make it.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: Yeah, absolutely.
That's just part and parcel of

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nature if you like.

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During the pupping, the
mortality here runs at something

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like 5% which is quite low
really.

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Places I've worked in the past
like the Farne Islands, some

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years the mortality for pups
there can be up to 40%. The

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majority here will go on to live
happy, healthy seal lives.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Blakeney
Point's abundance of space and

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food makes it a palatial and
popular pupping site.

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Grey Seals spend most of their
lives at sea, but during

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breeding season, they come
ashore for a dramatic and

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intense life cycle played out in
a few short weeks as Dr. Debbie

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Russell, Deputy Director of the
Sea Mammal Research Unit at

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Saint Andrews University
explains.

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DR DEBBIE RUSSELL: Grey Seals
they pup in autumn and winter.

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The females give birth to a
single white coated pup. We call

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it lanugo the coat.

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The females lose over a third of
their body weight, giving the

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pup the milk.

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So after weaning the females
come into estrous, which means

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they're ready to mate with a
male.

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Male seals, which we call bulls
have a group of females that

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they will try and mate with.

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There may be kind of one big
male, one beach master that

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tries to basically control the
access to any of these females.

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You can often identify the kind
of older males by the scars that

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they have.

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The pups are left on the colony
alone.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: First seal
down and starting to push any

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squeamishness aside. I team up
with a fellow newbie to scour

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the beach for more carcasses.

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SUE GREGORY: Hello, my name is
Sue, I'm a volunteer.

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I'm really interested in seals
so to be able to come out,

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actually be with like minded
people who also love seals and

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be able to talk seals is really,
really good.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: In fact, if
you're a seal super fan, like

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Sue, the clear up even offers an
intriguing lesson in anatomy.

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SUE GREGORY: Oh, here's my first
dead seal. There's not much of

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it left and there's some nice
bones!

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So that's a scapula. The
shoulder bone, that's the

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humerus. So that's the long
upper arm bone.

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Oh dear. It's smelly.

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There we are.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: The team
spends the next few hours

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spreading out and sweeping the
beach.

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The clear up is physically hard
work, picking up carcasses and

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heaving the heavy bags over the
sand dunes to the trailer and

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then doing it all again and
again until finally, operation

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seal clear up's complete.

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CHRIS BIELBY: Pretty much the
last of a grizzly haul,

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shattered now!

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I'm Chris Bielby, I'm the
countryside manager for the

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Norfolk Coast and Broads.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: And now what
happens?

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CHRIS BIELBY: So they will be
taken back to our yard at Priory

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Farm in Blakeney and we have a
specialist contractor who's

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brought a skip and they will
then go in the skip with a

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special lid put on top and then
they will take them away and

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dispose of them suitably.

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You'd think that doing this job,
the atmosphere would be really

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sombre, but actually everybody's
been fairly upbeat.

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When the Tern colony arrives
this will be so important.

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Really pleased to get that done.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: After the
beach clean up, Blakeney Point

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stays relatively quiet for the
rest of winter.

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Then as the freezing weather
melts away in the sunshine, this

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coastal and salt marsh habitat
bursts into life.

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Spring has arrived and rangers
and volunteers begin to prepare

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for the next big natural
spectacle of the year.

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But before things get busy,
there's still time for the

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Blakeney team to enjoy the
season at a more relaxed pace.

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If you're an inlander at this
time of year, you might get out

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and about hiking or biking to
see the natural world in full

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bloom.

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But if you live along the North
Norfolk Coast, like National

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Trust volunteer, Sue Gregory,
you might prefer to take a

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different mode of transport
altogether for a nature safari

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with a unique perspective.

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SUE GREGORY: This morning I'm
going to record some of the

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sounds and describe some of the
sights as I go kayaking in the

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harbour at Blakeney.

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It's middle of May. It's just
such a lovely morning.

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Coming north, I can see the old
lifeboat house on Blakeney

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Point, that iconic blue
building.

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We have the entrance to the
Clyde Channel and then just

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looking around the east hills
and the pines.

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I've now just kayaked across to
the Blakeney Point and I'm just

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sitting very quietly over some
marsh which is flooded and I'm

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now starting to see birds.

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I've just had a flock of Oyster
Catchers fly over the top of me.

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There were a couple of gulls
that were obviously stalking

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their nests and they've just
seen them off.

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Other birds I've heard were a
Curlew and this is an area where

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it's quite good to see
Spoonbills.

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I just had a little Tern go
right in beside me and pull out

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a little sand eel and it's still
managing to squeak with it's

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food in it's beak.

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It's just so nice to sit and
float, but I'll have to put in

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some effort and then I'll go
home for breakfast.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Over the next
few months, the number of ground

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nesting migrant seabirds turns
arriving at this globally

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important site to breed keeps
growing.

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It's summer on Blakeney Point
and by now from shoreline to

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June, this baby boom beach is a
frenzy of noisy feisty families

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of the feathered variety.

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All this action on the beach
requires 24 hour conservation

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care such as patrols to keep
away predators, population

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counts and informing the public.

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So Ranger Duncan Halpin leaves
all his home comforts to head

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off grid.

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Moving into an old blue
corrugated metal life boat house

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where he and two assistant
rangers spend eight months of

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the year hanging out with some
very rowdy neighbours.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: My favorite part
of the job is probably living on

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the point over summer being
literally stuck amongst the

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wildlife.

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That's an incredibly rewarding
experience.

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Summer on the point is an
amazing time. There's again,

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huge concentrations of life and
a riot of noise. We have up to

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3000-4000 Sandwich Terns
nesting. They have a really,

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really distinctive call which it
really is the sound of summer on

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this bit of coastline.

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Little Terns are one of the UK's
rarest seabirds. They're the

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smallest tern in the UK and they
make this almost squeaky. I

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think it's a bit like a squeaky
dog toy call as they fly over.

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We do get the occasional Arctic
Tern. The Arctic Tern has the

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longest known migration of any
animal. At the northern reaches

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of their limit, they will
effectively fly pole to pole

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every single year.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Other sights
of summer at Blakeney include an

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abundance of colourful coastal
butterflies and splash in the

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right puddle on an evening and
you might see the sea sparkle

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with blue bioluminescence.

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As the long days of summer draw
to an end the landscape changes

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again, the thousands of Terns
take off from their breeding

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grounds to head to warmer climes
forming part of the great late

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summer migration in UK skies.

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As colder weather creeps into
the fresh water marshes eels

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begin their epic and mysterious
4000 mile migration back to the

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Sargasso Sea where they breed a
single time before they die.

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And rangers have migrated from
the remote lifeboat house to the

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familiar comforts of the
Blakeney Ranger Hut. Autumn is

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here and the coastline flaunts a
seasonal look all of its own.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: There are
definitely seasons on the point,

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but they're different to- well,
what I call the mainland.

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There's no trees, you know,
turning into autumn colours, the

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greens on the salt marsh from
plants like Samphire and Sea

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Purslane and Shrubby Sea Blite

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They all start to change in late
summer into the traditional

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autumn colours that's the
oranges, the bronzy colours.

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And the salt marsh just takes on
a completely different hue,

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which when the light shining on,
it just has this golden edge to

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it. There's a nervous
anticipation in late October

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waiting for the first Seal pup.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: It's winter,
mid December. The UK's in the

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grip of a deep freeze, but the
icy expanse of coastline and low

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winter sun in Norfolk's big open
skies look beautiful and I'm

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just arriving at the Blakeney
ranger hut for an event I've

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been looking forward to
witnessing for myself all year.

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Duncan. Hello. Lovely to see you
again.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: Hello there. Last
time you were here we were doing

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the seal clear up. But let's go
see the spectacle.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: We've just
got out the jeep.

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As we've been approaching today,
at first, it was little velvety

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heads of seals popping up from
the waves and then the further

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that we got towards the
colonies, it was these huge

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balls and then we started seeing
the babies, little white furs

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with their huge eyes and now
we've reached a dense part of

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the colony and we're going to
look at how Duncan conserves and

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tags these seals to help them
and to help the spectacle keep

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happening every year.

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What's going on now duncan?

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DUNCAN HALPIN: What we're gonna
do is we're gonna try and spray

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some pups with some marker
spray.

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It'll come out when they moult,
but it'll allow us to track that

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pup up to when it does start to
moult. We're trying to get good

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data for the Sea Mammal Research
Unit.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: The rangers
on the ground work like spraying

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the pups with paint to identify
them all feeds into a big study

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monitoring the health of the UK
seal population. As Doctor

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Debbie Russell from the Sea
Mammal Research Unit explains.

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DR DEBBIE RUSSELL: Blakeney
actually used to be a very small

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colony.

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00:14:36,770 --> 00:14:40,640
20 years ago there was less than
100 Grey seal pups born at

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Blakeney.

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And now it's likely there's
about 5000 pups born at

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Blakeney.

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It used to be that the number of
seals that were born was

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estimated through ground counts.
But the size of the colony

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essentially prohibits that. So
our work now is to do so by

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aerial survey.

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There's an airplane with the
hole in the floor where there's

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two cameras and as they go over
the colony, they're taking

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multiple pictures and we stitch
them together and count the pups

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that are on them.

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00:15:08,869 --> 00:15:13,049
Grey Seals have historically
been hunted at very high levels.

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There has also been times where
Grey Seals have been culled as a

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result of potential interactions
with fisheries.

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So there was a much reduced
population which is now kind of

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recovering

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And potentially expanding beyond
what it would have been. So, the

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UK probably has about 36% of the
world's Grey seal population.

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And in Europe, the UK has the
vast majority of Grey Seals. So

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it really is an incredibly
important area for Grey Seals.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Going up and
tagging pups on the bottom.

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Isn't the easiest conservation
task.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: It's a difficult
job to get close to the pups.

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The mums are very defensive and
then you add in the bulls that

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are on the beach.

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It's all about having a look,
seeing what the situation is and

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then getting it done as quickly
as possible to avoid disturbance

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and avoid the possibility of
getting bitten as well.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: So, what kit
do we have to do this

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conservation work?

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DUNCAN HALPIN: We've got a bag
of marker spray here and a

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healthy can do attitude.

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I'm gonna mark this pup with a
blue and yellow mark. Hopefully,

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if it doesn't run away!

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Almost ballet
like, Duncan quickly nips in and

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00:16:43,890 --> 00:16:47,359
out to spray the babies. But the
super protective mums move

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surprisingly quickly. They 24
stone or 155kg bulks lunging

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00:16:53,280 --> 00:16:57,340
towards the imposter teeth
bared.

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After Duncan's done this
delicate dance, about a dozen

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more times enough pups have been
tagged for the day.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: It's not a
disturbance free procedure, but

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the study zone is a very small
part of the colony. So the

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benefits sort of outweigh the
negatives. We managed to spray a

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few seals and we can go away and
leave them in peace now.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: I've just
left Duncan and I'm off to meet

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two of volunteers who've been
looking after Blakeney for the

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whole year. Looking beyond the
seals. I can see two figures and

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that must be Hanne and Sue. Hi!

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SUE GREGORY: Hello!

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: How does it
feel being back here?

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SUE GREGORY: Oh, it's absolutely
fantastic. The seal colony, in

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my opinion has expanded this
year. I'm not quite sure whether

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we're at the peak at the moment,
but I suspect we may be.

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00:17:49,520 --> 00:17:53,400
HANNE SIEBERS: Hello. I'm Hanne
Siebers. I've been volunteering

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00:17:53,410 --> 00:17:59,459
with the National Trust for five
years. I go out here as often as

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I can.

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I find it uplifting, healing and
I have absolutely no need for

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going away on holiday. Best of
all, I am National Trust

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Property photographer.

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00:18:14,849 --> 00:18:17,079
MICHELLE DOUGLASS: So, can you
give us some of your top tips?

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HANNE SIEBERS: If you want to
photograph seals, you have the

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00:18:21,880 --> 00:18:26,839
rules like for any wildlife.
Nature comes first.

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It is of course different
because I am privileged. I am

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00:18:30,920 --> 00:18:35,860
right in the middle of the
rookery with a long lens, I can

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00:18:35,860 --> 00:18:44,880
zoom in. I try to capture a seal
not looking directly into my

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lens.

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00:18:46,910 --> 00:18:52,160
We have two pups here, they have
just been sprayed one yellow,

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one gold with a bull guarding
his territory and the cow next

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00:18:58,170 --> 00:19:03,780
to the pups. I have a nice
backdrop with the roaring sea.

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I get down on my knees to be on
the same level as the seals. I

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use my long lens and a wide
aperture. I get that shot now.

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And this is really Blakely Point
for me.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: A beautiful
but a freezing day on Blakeney

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00:19:28,050 --> 00:19:30,479
Point might be time to head back
for a cup of tea now.

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When we started with the clear
at the start of the year, it was

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00:19:39,010 --> 00:19:42,170
a little bit sad, a little bit
gritty but coming back and

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00:19:42,180 --> 00:19:47,349
seeing just as far as the eye
can see fat, healthy, gorgeous

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seals doing their thing,
expanding their colony. It just

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00:19:51,040 --> 00:19:54,050
goes to show what conservation
can do somewhere like Blakeney.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: It's a real
success story here, seeing so

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many seals and the numbers going
up year on year. It's a great

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00:20:00,329 --> 00:20:04,020
reward for the work we do.
Having such a massive

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concentration of life in what is
quite a small space is just

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00:20:07,349 --> 00:20:07,839
astounding.

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00:20:17,839 --> 00:20:19,770
MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Thanks for
listening to this episode of the

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00:20:19,780 --> 00:20:23,229
National Trust podcast. We hope
you've been inspired by this

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00:20:23,239 --> 00:20:26,670
programme and please remember to
follow our guidelines for the

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00:20:26,680 --> 00:20:31,510
best safest and most disturbance
free ways to enjoy the seals and

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00:20:31,520 --> 00:20:33,430
other wildlife at Blakeney
Point.

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00:20:34,280 --> 00:20:37,500
For more information, follow the
links on this episode's show

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00:20:37,510 --> 00:20:40,930
notes where you'll also find
advice about how to photograph

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00:20:40,939 --> 00:20:43,890
seals responsibly without
getting too close.

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00:20:44,459 --> 00:20:48,069
If you've enjoyed this podcast,
keep listening for a brand new

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00:20:48,079 --> 00:20:51,260
series of the National Trust
podcast launching in May, which

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00:20:51,270 --> 00:20:54,670
will be packed with more
immersive audio adventures.

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00:20:54,670 --> 00:20:57,390
And don't forget to follow and
review us on your favourite

350
00:20:57,400 --> 00:21:02,859
podcast app or head to
nationaltrust.org.uk/podcasts to

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00:21:02,869 --> 00:21:05,739
browse our full back catalogue
of audio programmes.

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00:21:06,329 --> 00:21:09,319
For now, from me, Michelle
Douglas. Goodbye.

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00:21:16,709 --> 00:21:22,150
GENERIC: Nature is amazing, but
it's in crisis. Go wild for

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00:21:22,160 --> 00:21:27,189
nature. Once a week. If we work
together, our skies will be full

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00:21:27,199 --> 00:21:31,500
of bird song again, air will be
fresher and safer and rivers

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00:21:31,510 --> 00:21:38,050
will be clean. Head to save our
wildisles.org.uk for inspiration

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00:21:38,239 --> 00:21:43,670
and ideas. So you can make a
difference. Love nature and act

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00:21:43,680 --> 00:21:46,469
now to help save our Wild Isles.

