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KATE MARTIN: Hello and welcome
to the National Trust podcast.

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I'm Kate Martin lead Ranger for
Formby in Central Lancashire.

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And once again, I'm leaving the
familiar surrounds of the

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northwest and heading down
South.

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This time, I'm in Hampshire
where I'll be exploring an

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unassuming patch of woods and
short grassland that's full of

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wildlife and history.

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But it's after dark when this
place really comes to life with

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nocturnal activity that could
make the unsuspecting evening

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rambler blush.

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I've just left the Cathedral
City Of Winchester, which could

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be considered the gateway to the
South Downs National Park.

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Now, it covers 628 square miles
and with its rolling hills,

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glorious heathland and long
distance walking paths. The

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South downs is a paradise for
amblers, ramblers and walkers

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alike.

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But that's all to the east of
Winchester... So why am I

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heading west to a tiny
triangular patch of land that's

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sandwiched between two busy
roads.

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Well, I'll be meeting area
ranger Cat Hadler who tells me

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that if I keep an open mind,
this local nature spot may offer

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me an unexpected experience.

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And here we are, we've just
arrived.

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Right then, busy road. Wonder
why I've been brought to what

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sounds like the M6. Let's go and
have a look and see what this

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sign says.

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So according to this sign, I'm
in the lower car park of a place

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called Stockbridge Down.

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Cat's asked me to meet her at
the Down's highest point.

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There's a path right ahead of me
going through the woods. So I'm

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assuming we just go through
there and keep on going till we

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meet Cat!

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Just looking, I can hear the
chirr-up of grasshoppers.

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And it's funny, I'm only about
minutes walk away from the car

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park and I can't hear the
traffic at all. It's amazing

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actually how nature can do that
can just sort of take you away

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from one place to another in
almost an instant.

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Oh, wow!

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And I just walking out into a
lovely little woodland glade,

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beautiful, surrounded by a
mixture of Blackthorn and Hazel

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creeping up through. You can see
the colour of the rocks below

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and of course, the bright white
here because we're on chalk.

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I see someone standing in front
of me and I'm hoping that this

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is Cat?

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Hello, Cat!

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CAT HADLER: Hiya!

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KATE MARTIN: It's a hell of a
slog up here, but what a view!

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CAT HADLER: Yeah, it's worth it.

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KATE MARTIN: It is worth it!

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CAT HADLER: It's pretty much 360
when you're right on the top. So

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in times gone past, this would
have been of huge significance,

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this area as a go between.

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You've got the ancient capital
of Wessex over in Winchester,

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you've got the cathedral city of
Salisbury and with the River

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Test lying between them down in
the valley, this is the highest

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point.

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So they probably would have used
this to cross over and head

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between the two ancient cities
on pilgrimage, trade routes, all

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sorts of things.

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KATE MARTIN: Standing on top of
this series of hummocks, which

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essentially is just a steep bank
with a ditch in between.

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So you've got sort of- the one
we're standing on here is really

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quite steep. And this is very,
very typical of a iron age hill

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fort.

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CAT HADLER: The steepest ramp is
kind of the main hill fort and

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on top of it would be the
encampment and then you go down

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into the moat.

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KATE MARTIN: So Cat, how old do
we think this hill fort is?

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CAT HADLER: Well, it's iron age.
So it's about 1000 years BC.

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RYAN LAVELLE: So if we're
thinking about a hill fort in

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the iron age, we wouldn't be
thinking about like a medieval

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walled city like York with stone
walls.

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What we're talking about is the
use of the hill and the moving

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of the earth sometimes to build
extra ditches as we have at

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Woolbury Ring.

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Also to build up a, a kind of
escarpment at the top.

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I'm Ryan Lavelle and I'm
professor of early medieval

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history at Winchester
University.

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The advantages of being in such
an elevated position would be to

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be able to see the countryside
around, to show ownership of the

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countryside around, to show some
sense of control of that

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landscape.

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These were farming communities,
places where extended families

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might live and where their
animals might be kept and where

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food could be gathered and
protected as well.

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It's a place that may provide
some refuge, some protection and

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some status.

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KATE MARTIN: Walking on top of
the bank here. Obviously, the

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path beneath us is very chalky.

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CAT HADLER: It can look quite
unremarkable to the untrained

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eye because it could be a lot
bleaker, especially in autumn

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and winter.

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It's- the grassland is much
shorter. It's a lot more open.

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There's less shelter.

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KATE MARTIN: Is this what you
brought me here to see?

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CAT HADLER: There's more
interesting stuff going on below

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the surface! So I thought you're
here to see things that lie

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beneath.

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KATE MARTIN: Oh, I'm intrigued!

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So, come on, tell me the story.
What is it that's here?

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CAT HADLER: So, about five or
six years ago, this little tiny

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black segmented thing wobbled
across the path in front of me

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and it looked a little bit like
a ladybird larvae.

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So it's like a kind of extended
wood louse in segments but

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thinner and blacker and with
little orange markings. And then

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I went away and looked it up and
in the end I found it was a

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Glow-Worm larvae.

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KATE MARTIN: Glow-Worms! That's
pretty fascinating. I didn't

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think we had Glow-Worms in the
UK?!

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CAT HADLER: Yeah, I think a lot
of people confuse them with

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Fireflies, which we don't have
in the UK. But Glow-Worms we do

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very much have. So both
fireflies and Glow-Worms are

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creatures that use
bioluminescence to communicate

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and attract each other.

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But fireflies will do it flying
around. Whereas Glow-Worms will

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only do it on the ground or
they'll climb up a bit of

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vegetation and basically waggle
their green bums from there and

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then they'll glow better on
moonless nights.

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Tonight is a new moon, which is
why I've brought you here

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because we're doing our second
survey of the year that we'd

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like you to join in on.

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Looking at my watch- It's about
8:30pm now.

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Volunteers are due on site about
10pm. So if we just walk across

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to the car park and we'll start
setting up!

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KATE MARTIN: Sounds great!

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CAT HADLER: So I'll just get the
maps out of my van and then I'll

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show you how we do the survey.

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KATE MARTIN: Great!

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CAT HADLER: So I've got three
aerial photos here of

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Stockbridge Down. And on each
one, it's got a different route

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drawn and essentially you're
walking sort of all spread out

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in a line. So you all got your
eyes on the ground, kind of like

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a police crime scene looking for
evidence.

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KATE MARTIN: So apart from a
sharp pair of eyes, is there

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anything else we need?

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CAT HADLER: Just to give focus
and a bit of a hint of

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competition.

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KATE MARTIN: So it gets quite
competitive does it?

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CAT HADLER: Yeah, it does. And
speaking of competitive, some of

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the volunteers are arriving and
it's only quarter past nine.

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KATE MARTIN: Hello, I'm Kate!

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GENERIC: Hello!

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KATE MARTIN: So this is my first
time on a Glow-Worm survey. What

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about you?

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GENERIC: No, I've been doing it
for probably about four or five

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years since we started.

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It takes you a while to see your
first one and once you get it,

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it's like-

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KATE MARTIN: So is there quite a
bit of competition then between

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the groups when you go out?

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GENERIC: There would be if Dylan
was here! He's a lead ranger.

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Yes, he's very competitive when
it comes to it!

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KATE MARTIN: I don't know, maybe
it's something about lead

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rangers. Maybe we're all
competitive. I'm quite

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competitive!

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GENERIC: I'm sure you will see
some

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KATE MARTIN: Oh Good. I hope so!

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GENERIC: I hope I see some!

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CAT HADLER: Right everyone!
Should we go?

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So we'll cross the road and
then, yeah, we'll go off on our

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different groups.

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Everyone know who they're with?
Wonderful! Oh, I'm excited! I am

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excited! It's going to happen!
We're going to find lots!

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So for the best chance for us to
see them-

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KATE MARTIN: Yeah-

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CAT HADLER: It's best if we
spread out. So if you just go

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over there between Scott and
Mary and kind of hold the line

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there-

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KATE MARTIN: Yeah!

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CAT HADLER: That'd be perfect.

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Mary!

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Oh, yeah, here she is!

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Wonderful!

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KATE MARTIN: I have to say it's
a lot harder than I thought it

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would be!

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MARY: But it does help having
seen them before to know what

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you're looking for!

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KATE MARTIN: Well fingers
crossed. I'm hoping that we

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might get an idea.

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So, I mean, you obviously must
enjoy it otherwise you wouldn't

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be getting up [cross-talk]

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MARY: I don't often come out
here in the middle of the night.

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KATE MARTIN: That's good to
know, otherwise I'd be asking

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some questions!

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Thank you, Mary. It was nice to
talk to you and let me know if

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you see one. I'm desperate to
see one!

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Hello, Scott. Where are you?

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SCOTT: I'm here! You've been up
here before last time?

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KATE MARTIN: No, no, this is my
first!

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SCOTT: This is my second. We- I
came on the first one a couple

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of months back when, sadly, we
couldn't find anything. But

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that's, that's life. It's a
funny old year. But we want to

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find the glowing bottoms which
will make it worth it.

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KATE MARTIN: So, what made you
want to get involved with it?

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SCOTT: Yeah, it is a fantastic
environment to work in great

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company with the guys that I
work with.

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And there's so much to do.

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KATE MARTIN: Oh, we got one!

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CAT HADLER: Oh, joyous! Oh, well
done! Good Lord, I can't even

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see it! Well done!

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Mary your eyes! Gosh, you have a
superhuman vision! Look at her!

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That might be a larvae.

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Well, it is eating a snail. I
think you found a larvae because

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they glow very faintly.

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KATE MARTIN: Nice one!

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CAT HADLER: Look. That is the
first larvae I've ever picked up

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on a survey!

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KATE MARTIN: Oh, wow. That's
incredible.

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ROBIN SCAGELL: Curiously, the
larvae actually do glow of their

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own accord.

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And we believe that the reason
they glow is to try and deter

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predators from eating them.

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I'm Robin Scargell. I run the UK
Glow-Worm survey.

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There's nothing more delightful
than walking along a lane in the

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summer and seeing these little
sparks of light which are female

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Glow-Worms hopefully waiting for
a male to turn up.

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If you're a tiny beetle and
you're around in the

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countryside. How do you make
friends? How do you get to meet

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another person?

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Another similarly minded
Glow-Worm? Well, it's bad enough

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for humans but it's even more
difficult for tiny little

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beetles in the landscape.

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Now, some beetles use
pheromones. They have a

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distinctive smell and the males
can pick that up over a long

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distance.

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In the case of Glow-Worms, they
use light.

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I would say it's a bit like
people going to a dance or a

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nightclub or whatever the
females put on their best and

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most attractive clothing and
look as gorgeous as possible.

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And the males sort of shuffle
in, look around for this little

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speck of light in the grass.

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And so it is with Glow-Worms,
the females actually light up

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their lights and they can be
seen from a long distance.

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It's all about mating. She may
last only a day or so as an

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adult and then she lays her eggs
and then more or less within a

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few hours, she may well be dead.

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KATE MARTIN: So now that I know
what I'm looking for, I am

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keeping my eyes peeled. But,
it's actually quite tricky. It's

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quite tricky trying just to
watch what you put in your feet,

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never mind anything else.

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But sort of walking across here
with sort of disembodied voices

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and silhouettes in the distance
it's a-

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It is quite eerie, particularly
when you think about, you know,

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how long people have lived up
here. You can imagine the sort

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of ghosts of our ancestors
following our every footstep.

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That's quite scary really!

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RYAN LAVELLE: As far back as
2400 BC at the dawn of the

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Bronze Age, this was a place for
burial mounds.

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Those people who were buried,
there were seen as important

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enough to have these mounds
erected as a kind of memorial to

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them.

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Fast forward to the 1060s AD
this time, it's not used as a

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place to honour the deceased,
Stockbridge Down for Anglo Saxon

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Society was used as a place to
warn the living.

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I'm Ryan Lavelle and I'm
professor of early medieval

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history at Winchester
University.

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So executions that we know of
from this period tend to be by

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hanging or sometimes by
beheading.

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There's evidence from
Stockbridge Down that some of

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these skeletons had had their
hands bound together behind

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their backs.

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So evidently they were treated
as prisoners, heads were placed

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on stakes in public places so
that they could be seen.

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And this was a way of reminding
people to behave.

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You can imagine the people who
are traveling along the

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Stockbridge road looking up at
the hill and shuddering slightly

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as they see these heads looking
down on them.

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Going to a place like this after
dark would be something that

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would best be avoided.

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KATE MARTIN: There is something
isn't there about being in a

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place where, you know, people
have been for thousands of

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years.

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CAT HADLER: It is. We walk in
the footsteps of history here. I

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always look out at the view and
see, you know, ancient man

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00:14:42,030 --> 00:14:44,250
looked out and the view would
have been very different, but

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the shape of the landscape would
have been largely the same.

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KATE MARTIN: Oh, is this one?

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00:14:50,770 --> 00:14:57,119
CAT HADLER: Oh, it is one! Hey,
Kate's found one! Oh, look!

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KATE MARTIN: Oh, so I'm so
chuffed! So chuffed!

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00:15:00,159 --> 00:15:00,909
CAT HADLER: Good, isn't it?

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00:15:01,039 --> 00:15:02,840
KATE MARTIN: I don't feel
completely useless!

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00:15:02,869 --> 00:15:02,929
CAT HADLER: Yeah.

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00:15:04,369 --> 00:15:10,843
Yeah, I just walked right past
it. [Cross-talk as volunteers

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arrive]

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KATE MARTIN: There's one in
there as well!

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00:15:12,229 --> 00:15:16,539
CAT HADLER: Which one are you
looking at Scott?

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00:15:16,539 --> 00:15:17,129
SCOTT: Well I've got one here
into the bushes.

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00:15:17,129 --> 00:15:17,194
CAT HADLER: So-

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00:15:17,194 --> 00:15:17,773
KATE MARTIN: There's one that
side!

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00:15:17,773 --> 00:15:19,830
CAT HADLER: There's one here,
there's one there, [Cross-talk]

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00:15:19,830 --> 00:15:22,297
You've got one! Oh good Lord.
This is wonderful!

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00:15:22,297 --> 00:15:23,893
KATE MARTIN: Right, let me get-

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00:15:23,893 --> 00:15:26,049
Is there one over there as well?

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00:15:26,580 --> 00:15:29,380
CAT HADLER: Yeah, we got it!
There it is. I can see it now,

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00:15:29,380 --> 00:15:33,140
dead ahead!

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00:15:33,140 --> 00:15:35,669
Right, Ok. Hold on. Sorry, Kate.
We will finish this

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00:15:35,679 --> 00:15:36,369
conversation!

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00:15:37,099 --> 00:15:38,570
Oh my God. Now, I can't see.

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00:15:38,770 --> 00:15:41,460
Oh, yes. There's one in there
and there's one down there.

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00:15:41,700 --> 00:15:43,820
Excellent. Oh, wonderful!

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00:15:44,729 --> 00:15:47,710
Cool! We'll just keep walking up
in the line straight up to the

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00:15:47,719 --> 00:15:50,830
car park. Come on, guys, we can
get one more before we get

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00:15:50,840 --> 00:15:53,935
back! [

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00:15:53,935 --> 00:15:56,359
Cheering] I said we had to have
one more before we went home!

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00:15:56,919 --> 00:15:58,229
I would have kept you all here!

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00:15:58,400 --> 00:16:01,169
Gosh, I can see her! She's quite
a biggie!

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00:16:01,469 --> 00:16:06,049
Ah, excellent work. Right. Let's
get back to the car park and see

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00:16:06,059 --> 00:16:06,989
how everyone's got on.

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00:16:13,960 --> 00:16:20,359
Right, where is everyone? What's
our result? Right. How did you

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00:16:20,369 --> 00:16:21,320
guys do? Tell us!

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00:16:21,320 --> 00:16:22,479
GENERIC: We did really well,
thank you!

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00:16:22,669 --> 00:16:24,590
CAT HADLER: Oh, good, good. What
have you got?

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00:16:24,599 --> 00:16:27,049
GENERIC: 15 females and 7 males.

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00:16:27,059 --> 00:16:31,880
CAT HADLER: Fantastic. Oh, very
close. We've got 18 females, 7

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00:16:31,890 --> 00:16:35,559
males and a larvae eating a
snail spotted by Mary, which I

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00:16:35,570 --> 00:16:36,750
have never seen before.

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00:16:36,770 --> 00:16:38,159
Oh, well done guys!

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00:16:38,169 --> 00:16:43,890
GENERIC: Is that a draw in
reality? [Cross-talk]

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00:16:43,890 --> 00:16:45,780
CAT HADLER: Yeah. Well, there
was a particular cluster on a

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00:16:45,789 --> 00:16:49,090
corner which will forever be
kind of the peak busy corner in

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00:16:49,099 --> 00:16:50,679
the green light district in my
head now.

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00:16:51,030 --> 00:16:53,400
Oh, well, thank you very much
everyone and thank you for

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00:16:53,409 --> 00:16:56,280
hanging around to hear results.
I appreciate it's getting on

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00:16:56,289 --> 00:16:57,969
now. We'll all be turning to
pumpkins soon!

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00:16:59,070 --> 00:17:02,280
Yeah. Thank you very much.
Everyone's signed in and out. So

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00:17:02,289 --> 00:17:04,680
yeah, please feel free to leave
as you wish and get yourselves

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00:17:04,689 --> 00:17:08,839
to bed. Thanks guys. Thank you.
See you later, Mike.

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00:17:10,380 --> 00:17:14,329
KATE MARTIN: It was a really
good experience. I mean,

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00:17:14,339 --> 00:17:17,599
surveying a new species for me
is always spectacular.

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00:17:17,609 --> 00:17:19,439
CAT HADLER: Oh, thank you.
Thanks for coming. It was lovely

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00:17:19,449 --> 00:17:20,989
to meet you real joy.

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00:17:25,448 --> 00:17:28,958
KATE MARTIN: So, the volunteers
have all gone Cat's left and I'm

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00:17:28,968 --> 00:17:32,629
all alone on this lonely little
bit of chalk grassland.

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00:17:33,280 --> 00:17:36,380
But actually, it's really
magical place to be at this time

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00:17:36,390 --> 00:17:39,560
of night. It's so rare that you
actually get to be alone in a

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00:17:39,569 --> 00:17:42,819
place like this. You know, I've
got open sky above me.

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00:17:42,829 --> 00:17:47,930
All the stars are twinkling.
It's just beautiful.

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00:17:47,930 --> 00:17:51,900
Quite often it can be these
little local areas that can be

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00:17:51,910 --> 00:17:53,459
the most magical.

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00:17:53,459 --> 00:17:56,880
Learn about it. Research about
your local places because you

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00:17:56,890 --> 00:18:00,920
can get a fantastic wildlife
experience in the most

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00:18:00,930 --> 00:18:03,709
unassuming quiet places.

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00:18:16,739 --> 00:18:19,459
Thanks for listening to this
episode of the National Trust

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00:18:19,469 --> 00:18:20,250
podcast.

345
00:18:20,410 --> 00:18:23,619
If you've enjoyed this episode,
remember, the National Trust has

346
00:18:23,630 --> 00:18:26,689
a huge resource of audio
programmes to keep you informed

347
00:18:26,699 --> 00:18:27,680
and entertained.

348
00:18:28,119 --> 00:18:30,520
You can find all the podcasts on
our network at

349
00:18:30,530 --> 00:18:34,609
nationalturst.org.uk/podcasts.

350
00:18:34,969 --> 00:18:38,150
We'll be back soon with a new
episode, but for now from me,

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00:18:38,160 --> 00:18:39,630
Kate Martin. Goodbye.

