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Lucy Dearlove: This is Lecker.
I'm Lucy Dearlove.

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Welcome to the Lecker Guide to
breakfast. Over the past few

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months, I've been interviewing
people about their breakfast

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habits. Those full episodes are
available for paid subscribers

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on Patreon, on Apple Podcasts
and Substack. But here I've

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compiled some of my favorite
bits into a real buffet. I hope

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you're hungry.

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There's nothing like being
slipped out of your routine by

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circumstance to remind you of
how entrenched your habits are.

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I just spent almost three months
at three days to be exact.

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Traveling around the continent
of Europe on trains. Mornings

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included croissants, porros, pan
con tomate, galaktoboureko. But

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do you know what I was looking
forward to as soon as I got

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home? Eating, as I do every
morning under usual

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circumstances, a bowl of
Sainsbury's nutty muesli with

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Greek yogurt and a splash of
milk.

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Gurdeep Loyal: So at home
breakfast for me is a cereal,

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which is either fruit and fibre
or special K. There is no

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deviation from that...the only
deviation is every now and then

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if they don't have the plain
Special K, I will get the red

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berry.

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Lara Lee: But it's generally
quite simple and it's something

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that needs to be rustled up in
really five minutes just because

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we all want to get the day going
and you know, for whatever

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reason, it would be nice as nice
to cook for an hour in the

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morning. But then I also don't
want too much washing up either.

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Right?

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Bre Graham: I am a breakfast
person, but I am like a very

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like chaotic breakfast person. I
like...my, my breakfast moods

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come in like big mood swings. So
sometimes I'll have...like going

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through a real toast phase at
the moment. But like that will

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last like maybe a week, two
weeks and then like I won't be

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able to touch toast for
breakfast for like the next

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month, and then it will go in
another phase.

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Thea Everett: I am really not
very good with breakfast, except

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for Saturday, sometimes Sunday
but I'm really I like I end up

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eating just whatever I have and
whatever I have is horrid.

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Lucy Dearlove: When I started
thinking about who I wanted to

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ask about their breakfast
habits, Bettina Makalintal

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immediately came to mind. I've
been following her work for a

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while now, both her writing and
her excellent, often egg based

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TikToks. And one of the things I
admire the most is her strong

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belief that anything can be
breakfast.

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Bettina Makalintal: I'm a very,
very sort of intuitive eater,

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like people are always like, how
do you decide what you want to

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eat? And I think I'm just very
much like, I always just like I

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go to bed with a craving or I
wake up with a craving. And so

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it's really just that like, you
know, this morning, I'm just

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like, Okay, I really want to eat
just a bunch of kale. And I

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hadn't done that for breakfast
in a while. So I think it's very

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much just sort of, like spur of
the moment and like, you know, I

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think an egg is an easy thing to
rely on. So often that's sort of

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like the starting point for me,
but really, breakfast is sort of

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like whatever is in the fridge.

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Lucy Dearlove: When I spoke to
Dan Hancox and Kasia Tee of the

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podcast Cursed Objects. Kasia
agreed that flatting the

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understood sometimes unspoken
conventions of breakfast has

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always been appealing to her.

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Kasia Tee: I feel like I've
always been a rogue breakfast

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eater, though. Great. I love
when I was when I was at school.

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Because I never wanted to eat
breakfast. I just never really

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ate breakfast. My mum would try
and tempt me with like, samosas.

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Yeah, it's a little...like
spring rolls that she'd do under

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the grill and then like, then
I'd eat breakfast. But otherwise

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I just be like, No, I'm not
eating cornflakes.

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Dan Hancox: There's a Colombian
place near Seven Sisters station

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that I've got empanadas before
on my way into work. That is,

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it's a little parcel it makes
perfect sense. It's basically a

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transposable savory pop tart for
the for the like I said, I've

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never had a pop tart preference.
But you know, I know they're

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important part of like, Anglo
American breakfast culture. Or

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certainly when I was a kid, I
don't think we were allowed to

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have fun. You can have some
cereal.

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Lucy Dearlove: And Lara Lee,
author of A Splash of Soy sang

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the praises of breaking
breakfast rules too. Her new

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book includes brunch recipes for
a tom yum Bloody Mary and a

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kimchi toastiw. Growing up in
Australia with an Indonesian

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dad, Lara did eat delicious
Indonesian breakfasts...just not

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necessarily at breakfast time.

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Lara Lee: You might have mee
goreng with noodles. You might

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even have like a beautiful soup,
or a jackfruit stew. And so And

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always, typically with rice or
noodles and so you'll find that

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the reason why these breakfasts
are quite I guess carbohydrate

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heavy is to provide a lot of
energy for the week. Same day so

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that it kind of just works that
way that that is such an

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important meal. There's also
bubur som som, which is like a

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beautiful kind of rice porridge
that might be served with a palm

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sugar syrup. And there's also
Bubur hitam, which is with black

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glutinous rice, a similar
principle a bit of coconut milk

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going to get the palm sugar
syrup. So that's quite sweet and

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might be served with some, you
know, jackfruit, fresh jackfruit

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and maybe infused with pandam
you know, really delicious food

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and flavours that you know, for
me would be such a main event

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for my dinner because culturally
my head's in that Western space.

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You're starting that day with
that beautiful feast. And

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whenever my husband and I travel
through Indonesia, and I was, I

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was there just last July and you
know, you you can order for

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breakfast a beautiful kind of, I
guess, you know it, I guess it's

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a, almost like a tasting platter
of the best of Indonesia. And

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it's all laid. So you've got
Yeah, you had your nasi goreng

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or you might have some sticky
kind of tempeh, you might have a

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deep fried egg with sambal. So
it's all of those things

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combined. And yeah, it makes for
really delicious eating. But you

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know, it's kind of, for me,
eating that way is something

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that I always do in Indonesia,
but for whatever reason I revert

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back to the simple breakfast at
home and then I would eat an

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Indonesian breakfast for dinner
in Australia, so I think I kind

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of just went back into that kind
of mode.

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Lucy Dearlove: Something that
came up with pretty much

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everyone I spoke to was
relishing the opportunity for a

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leisurely weekend breakfast,
even if weekdays passed without

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much breakfast fanfare at all.
Gurdeep Loyal, author of the

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recently published cookbook,
Mother Tongue, invited me round

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for breakfast cooked from the
book. Coconut Crab Crumpets,

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Gurdeep Loyal: so this is kind
of slightly South Indian-y,

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Malaysian-y sort of vibe. Okay,
but on crumpets because I love

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crumpets. And obviously,
crumpets are very British. And

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that's actually one of the
things I sort of wanted to do

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with a bit was take things that
were very quintessentially

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British, and give them my third
culture remix. Yeah, this is

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kind of an south...I'm north
Indian Punjabi, but this is kind

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of South Indian, Thai, kind of
flavor vibe. We'll do a first

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round, and then we'll see if we
want a second round, right. So

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as you can start to smell them,
I'm gonna put this paste in.

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This is gonna not splatter off
too much. You smell that?

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Lucy Dearlove: Smells amazing.

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Gurdeep Loyal: I do enjoy going
to people's houses for

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breakfast. And when people come
here for breakfast I make...I do

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make a real effort. And
actually, because the big thing

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growing up, like we would always
have Saturdays and Sundays would

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be like, of all the meals on a
Saturday or Sunday at home in

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Leicester breakfast would be the
one where there was a rotating

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cycle of people like whether an
uncle would drop by, or my gran

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has dropped by or like, I don't
know, like I might have, because

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I've spent most of my childhood
at orchestra on the weekends.

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But like, it would be like,

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Lucy Dearlove: What did you
play?

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Gurdeep Loyal: Cello. Which is
where a lot of the musical stuff

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comes from. But...

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Lucy Dearlove: Right of course.

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Gurdeep Loyal: It'd be like, you
know, like after orchestra,

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which was very early morning, it
was like when my friends from

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orchestra would come around. And
then you know, and so for me,

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actually hosting a breakfast is
sort of quite a sort of Loyal

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family thing to do. And
actually, when I think about

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images of my mum cooking, the
ones that are sort of most she's

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very much alive, but just
thinking about.

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Lucy Dearlove: like, you can
feel like that about being child

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about like, a time that's
passed.

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Gurdeep Loyal: yeah, I think
watching my mum make paratas in

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the morning on a Saturday. - and
sometimes on a Thursday, and

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sometimes on a Tuesday. I mean,
now it's pretty much any day of

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the week - is probably one of
the sort of formative food

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moments for me of like, just
this sense of this, like this

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sort of central figure at the
stove, who is simultaneously

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being sort of extremely loving
and giving and you know,

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kneading the dough, you bring
all her energy into this. And

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then you know, flexing from
there being two people in the

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kitchen to suddenly 10 People in
the kitchen because my brother's

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come home from football and
bought three friends with him.

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And there's no way someone would
come in the house and not be

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fed, right? Because that's just
not an option. It's like, well,

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if you're in the house, you're
being fed. So there's sort of

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very strict like, well, I'm
cooking and then Oh suddenly

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there's 10 people it's sort of
like okay, well now I'm cooking

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for 10 So this sort of loving
lovingness if I'm cooking for

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you, but also this sort of
strict guys, I've got 10 people

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to get through now come on. This
is a conveyor belt.

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Lucy Dearlove: For Bre Graham,
author of Table for Two,

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weekends mean one thing,

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Bre Graham: Saturday morning
breakfast specifically even more

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than like a Sunday morning
breakfast is special. Saturday

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morning breakfast is like, I'd
say 90% of the time, it's

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pancakes, have to make pancakes.
I'm a big pancake person. And I

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think I really like a big about
like the ritual of pancakes as

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well. There's something so nice
about the time that it takes to

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make them the, you know, the
kind of, you know, you have to

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you sort of work through the
batter and you have to spend

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time flipping each one. It's not
something quick, it's not like

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it's done. And then it's over.
You know, if you want, if you're

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making them for another person,
you have to make the decision

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that you're going to give them
straight out of the pan or

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you're going to keep make a
stack and keep them all warm.

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It's kind of Yeah, it's got a
really nice ritual to it.

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Lucy Dearlove: I love that and
what what do you eat on your

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pancakes?

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Bre Graham: I am citrus all the
way so but not just lemon like I

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really love fresh oranges
squeezed on pancakes, or

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grapefruit or blood oranges and
like sprinkle of sugar that

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still has to be like a little
bit crunchy.

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Lucy Dearlove: So like, okay, so
like, what are they like?

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Bre Graham: Like a lemon and
sugar by hopefully, but

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Lucy Dearlove: on top of muffins
kind of granular type thing.

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Okay, yeah. And we're talking,
we're talking American pancakes

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or like, Yeah, okay.

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Bre Graham: Well, I'm gonna, I'm
gonna coin them Australian.

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Lucy Dearlove: Okay, and that's
my bad. Yeah, they're, well,

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they're

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Bre Graham: not because they're
like, not quite like as muffiny

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fluffy as like an American
pancake. And I always use

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buttermilk or Kefir or something
like that. So it's kind of like

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it is it's closer to American
pancake than a crab sort of

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situation, but not quite as
dense and fluffy, lighter.

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Lucy Dearlove: Family Saturday
breakfasts were a big thing for

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Thea Everett, creator of  one of
my favorite recipe Substacks.

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What's That You're Cooking,
Thea?

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Thea Everett: Like my dad would
make fry ups most Saturdays with

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like fried potatoes. tinned
tomato have to be tinned

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tomatoes. Yeah, yeah. And he was
vegetarian. So we'd have sauce

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mix. Oh, yeah. Which I love.
Just so salty.

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Lucy Dearlove: Like, I don't
know, like patties are just kind

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of wait,

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Thea Everett: we do them in
sausages. But yeah, like, same

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sort of thing. And then mushroom
beans. tinned tomato. That was

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the vibe. Really? Yeah. And
also, he'd have this thing. He'd

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make us scrambled eggs and
smoked salmon. But the smoked

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salmon would be chopped up in
the egg. And then he made very

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little and we might be my
brother was like you'd have

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you'd have a wooden spoon. And
he'd like haven't made your pan

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like that for us. And you just
get this I mean, we were kids so

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we probably didn't need much
more but we just always remember

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like Why so little? Because the
eggs weren't scarce back then

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it's just this thing of like an
surely that's enough. falls

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away.

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Lucy Dearlove: It can be like
how much scrambled egg to make.

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You might Yeah,

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Thea Everett: you get less. You
get less than

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Lucy Dearlove: nothing. Yeah.
Like I'd happily eat maybe like

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one or two boiled eggs and
that'd be fine. But like, even

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two scrambled eggs is sometimes
a bit like oh, yeah, it was it

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was the rest of it,

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And Thea's continued the weekend
breakfast tradition herself.

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When I went round to meet her
she presented me with a

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delicious sort of breakfast
canopy selection. Boiled eggs

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with gomasio and Staffordshire
oatcakes topped with plantain.

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Thea Everett: this just a snack
version of soft boiled eggs

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served with gomasio.

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Lucy Dearlove: Gomasio! What's
that?

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Thea Everett: I'm glad you don't
know what it is what it is! It's

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like sesame, salt. Japanese
sesame. So my grandma used to

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have it. I don't know why
because she's Jewish and lived

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in Bolton, but it was just what
we would always be served with

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00:13:56,540 --> 00:13:57,530
our boiled eggs.

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Lucy Dearlove: That's so funny.
I wonder how how it got there.

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00:14:00,050 --> 00:14:01,970
Thea Everett: I don't...I have
no idea how she discovered it in

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00:14:01,970 --> 00:14:06,860
like the 80s in the north and
yeah, she always had it and then

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00:14:06,860 --> 00:14:09,620
my dad started we'd like he took
that on Yeah.

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00:14:11,510 --> 00:14:13,490
I mean, because most people
would have salt and pepper.

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Yeah, why not add the sesame in
black and regular ones but it's

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meant to be hot but

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Lucy Dearlove: Mm, the sesame is
so good.

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Thea Everett: Is good with the
egg. So that's number one. And

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00:14:30,110 --> 00:14:34,370
then number two. This I've not
finished it. I will start

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00:14:34,370 --> 00:14:38,600
finishing it in a sec. But they
are Staffordshire oatcake With

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00:14:39,020 --> 00:14:42,500
plantain it will...normally
right, I'd have like a full fry

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00:14:42,500 --> 00:14:45,080
up right with these two as
additions.

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Lucy Dearlove: Okay, so you
would like have your bacon

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00:14:47,900 --> 00:14:49,220
sausage egg and maybe

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00:14:49,000 --> 00:14:51,460
Thea Everett: maybe not so much
the meat I think like sometimes

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I might be, let me just not have
too much meat. Sometimes there'd

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00:14:53,830 --> 00:14:57,010
be meat but it's not essential.
Then there'd be fried tomato

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00:14:57,010 --> 00:15:01,330
fried egg, fried mushrooms,
maybe baked beans And then these

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00:15:01,330 --> 00:15:04,360
two and they're just excellent
with the fryup.

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00:15:04,840 --> 00:15:06,490
Lucy Dearlove: I think a
Staffordshire oatcake is such an

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00:15:06,490 --> 00:15:09,490
underrated carb to have with a
fryup. I'm always amazed, like

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they haven't sort of made it
more.

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Thea Everett: So they're really
hard to find. So that was one

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00:15:13,630 --> 00:15:15,790
thing that I managed to do in
town was grab some oatcakes.

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00:15:16,050 --> 00:15:16,560
Lucy Dearlove: So where did you
get them?

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Thea Everett: I went to Neal's
Yard, because I used to work

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Thea Everett: Yeah, exactly, but
they don't have them every time

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there

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Lucy Dearlove: Oh yeah, the
cheese thing, because they go

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with cheese.

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so I was very lucky that they
had them.

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Lucy Dearlove: Do they make
them?

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00:15:28,360 --> 00:15:31,090
Thea Everett: No, they just get
them from this barnd the same

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00:15:31,090 --> 00:15:31,990
brand at Sainsbury's.

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00:15:35,110 --> 00:15:36,910
Lucy Dearlove: North
Staffordshire Oatcakes.

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00:15:36,940 --> 00:15:39,610
Thea Everett: Yeah, I mean, I've
actually never had a freshly

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00:15:39,610 --> 00:15:44,050
made one. I'd like to do because
my ancestors are from

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00:15:44,050 --> 00:15:48,820
Staffordshire, apparently. Want
to go on a little thing. And

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00:15:48,820 --> 00:15:52,300
there was a really good Vittles
about it. Yeah, I'm gonna go for

284
00:15:52,300 --> 00:15:56,650
a special weekend stuff. Anyway,
I'll finish this and then make a

285
00:15:56,650 --> 00:15:58,810
little look at Oh my god. Great.

286
00:16:00,280 --> 00:16:03,820
Lucy Dearlove: Gorgeous. And
you've just fried the plantain

287
00:16:03,850 --> 00:16:04,210
that looks...

288
00:16:04,240 --> 00:16:06,250
Thea Everett: Yeah, I don't
actually know if it was that

289
00:16:06,250 --> 00:16:13,000
ripe I just got the ripest one
in the shop. But we'll take what

290
00:16:13,000 --> 00:16:13,330
you get.

291
00:16:14,050 --> 00:16:16,330
Lucy Dearlove: And say Is this
your like standard or not

292
00:16:16,330 --> 00:16:19,360
standard? This is a breakfast
that you'd make on a Saturday?

293
00:16:19,360 --> 00:16:19,690
Thea Everett: Yeah.

294
00:16:19,720 --> 00:16:23,140
Lucy Dearlove: Not everyone I
spoke to feel so warmly about a

295
00:16:23,140 --> 00:16:24,310
fry up, however.

296
00:16:24,960 --> 00:16:27,930
Dan Hancox: Yeah, I've come to
the realization slowly that I

297
00:16:27,930 --> 00:16:31,680
kind of think the full English
breakfast. Well, obviously a

298
00:16:31,680 --> 00:16:35,130
good version of it is is good
broadly speaking, it's a bit of

299
00:16:35,130 --> 00:16:39,240
a cursed thing. I think it's
quite, it's got a it's, you

300
00:16:39,240 --> 00:16:43,710
know, it's  just it's a bit
much. And it is, you know, as

301
00:16:43,710 --> 00:16:47,640
far as I understand from recent
histories of the full English

302
00:16:47,640 --> 00:16:52,350
that I've sort of listened to
and read about. It's something

303
00:16:52,350 --> 00:16:56,850
that emerged from a, and I'm
sure you'll correct me on this

304
00:16:56,850 --> 00:17:00,870
Lucy, but like, a need to sort
of display all of the kind of

305
00:17:00,870 --> 00:17:04,290
rich proteins that were
available to the wealthy.

306
00:17:06,090 --> 00:17:07,500
Lucy Dearlove: That makes sense,
I didn't actually know that

307
00:17:07,000 --> 00:17:09,010
Dan Hancox: sort of filter down.
It's like, look, we've got

308
00:17:09,010 --> 00:17:11,560
bacon, we've got sausage, black
pudding, but I mean, there's a

309
00:17:11,560 --> 00:17:14,320
reason why my veggie girlfriend
hates it, because it's just it's

310
00:17:14,350 --> 00:17:19,090
it's for meat eaters. Yes,
basically. Yeah. But but I think

311
00:17:19,570 --> 00:17:22,540
I've increasingly thought no,
yeah, the the idea of like when

312
00:17:22,540 --> 00:17:25,480
hung over going and having a
full English and like several

313
00:17:25,480 --> 00:17:29,380
cups of tea. Does just leave you
feeling a bit sick afterwards.

314
00:17:29,440 --> 00:17:31,570
Actually. Yeah, reason.

315
00:17:31,780 --> 00:17:35,230
Kasia Tee: I only ever I only
ever really go caff if I'm like

316
00:17:35,230 --> 00:17:38,920
hungover. And yeah, you always
end up feeling a lot worse.

317
00:17:38,950 --> 00:17:43,450
Yeah. Is amazing, because you
went in really bad. Yeah.

318
00:17:44,110 --> 00:17:45,880
Lucy Dearlove: Do you sort of
convince yourself that it's done

319
00:17:45,880 --> 00:17:49,030
you good in the long run? Yeah.
In the short term, you're like,

320
00:17:49,030 --> 00:17:50,050
I really feel like shit.

321
00:17:50,080 --> 00:17:52,690
Dan Hancox: A friend of mine
from when I was sort of very

322
00:17:52,690 --> 00:17:56,080
into like, grime and dubstep
clubbing and you know, we were

323
00:17:56,080 --> 00:17:58,540
going out sort of to raves two
or three nights a week. I

324
00:17:58,540 --> 00:18:01,840
remember meeting him in the pub
on a Saturday night for going to

325
00:18:02,290 --> 00:18:05,950
FWD at Plastic People and I was
like, how you doing Malcolm? And

326
00:18:05,950 --> 00:18:08,890
he's like, Yeah, I'm okay. Okay.
You know, when you're hungover.

327
00:18:09,160 --> 00:18:11,710
Normally, you'd go and have like
a fry up and a Coca Cola or

328
00:18:11,710 --> 00:18:14,080
something. That's what I'd
normally do. I need sugar, any

329
00:18:14,080 --> 00:18:17,650
protein. Well today this
morning, I was really hungover

330
00:18:17,650 --> 00:18:21,730
from the rave last night, I had
some fruit and lots of

331
00:18:21,730 --> 00:18:24,970
vegetables. And guess what, I
felt much better.

332
00:18:26,220 --> 00:18:27,570
Kasia Tee: Just like the light
dawned.

333
00:18:28,770 --> 00:18:31,860
Dan Hancox: 30 years old, and
all to learn that lesson. But I

334
00:18:31,860 --> 00:18:33,810
was like, Dude, that makes
sense.

335
00:18:39,900 --> 00:18:41,880
Lucy Dearlove: Most people
weren't in the habit of going

336
00:18:41,880 --> 00:18:45,810
out for breakfast outside of an
emergency situation like Kasia

337
00:18:45,810 --> 00:18:48,750
and Dan described, but that
doesn't mean it's not something

338
00:18:48,750 --> 00:18:52,080
with a big cultural significance
and presence, as Bettina points

339
00:18:52,080 --> 00:18:52,470
out.

340
00:18:52,800 --> 00:18:54,450
Bettina Makalintal: Yeah, I
mean, I think the like big one

341
00:18:54,450 --> 00:18:57,930
for me is just sort of, like,
the routine appearances of

342
00:18:57,930 --> 00:19:02,010
brunch in Sex in the City. Like,
because I think that for like,

343
00:19:02,010 --> 00:19:03,930
Sex in the City is such a
fascinating show. Like my

344
00:19:03,930 --> 00:19:06,420
sibling who's eight years
younger than me just started

345
00:19:06,420 --> 00:19:09,660
watching it. And, and it's very
top of mind because they're sort

346
00:19:09,660 --> 00:19:11,970
of approaching it as like,
someone who's like, noticeably

347
00:19:11,970 --> 00:19:15,060
younger than me. And like, it is
coming at it from like, you

348
00:19:15,060 --> 00:19:17,970
know, it's 2022 and like, the
first time I watched Sex and the

349
00:19:17,970 --> 00:19:21,690
Cityity was probably like, you
know, late night reruns on TV

350
00:19:21,690 --> 00:19:25,710
when I was a kid so right yeah,
so it's like a very different

351
00:19:25,710 --> 00:19:28,440
sort of like social lens that
you're bringing to it. And so I

352
00:19:28,440 --> 00:19:30,780
think that like just thinking
about how like brunch appears

353
00:19:30,780 --> 00:19:33,630
and it like so much of Sex in
the City is this sense of like,

354
00:19:33,720 --> 00:19:38,190
selling to you what like what
being a woman in your like, late

355
00:19:38,190 --> 00:19:41,880
20s should have been like in New
York, and like brunch, and like

356
00:19:41,880 --> 00:19:44,250
brunch felt and like their
brunch is felt so sort of, like

357
00:19:44,250 --> 00:19:46,590
important to that because it was
this sort of like dish about all

358
00:19:46,590 --> 00:19:50,220
the drama, and like, the food
was very much not like the focus

359
00:19:50,220 --> 00:19:52,980
it was just sort of about like
the experience and like I don't

360
00:19:52,980 --> 00:19:55,020
know, I think as someone who'd
like moved to New York in my

361
00:19:55,020 --> 00:19:59,670
like late 20s Right? It I don't
like I that was always like the

362
00:19:59,670 --> 00:20:01,560
image Right, like you'll move to
New York and then you'll have

363
00:20:01,560 --> 00:20:04,590
these like the Sex in the City
style life. Yeah. And like

364
00:20:04,590 --> 00:20:06,960
that's never you know that. And
then I moved to New York, I was

365
00:20:06,960 --> 00:20:08,550
like, I hate going out to
brunch, like, everywhere,

366
00:20:08,760 --> 00:20:11,280
everywhere is expensive and the
line is long, like I'd rather

367
00:20:11,280 --> 00:20:14,940
just eat at home. And so I think
about that a lot just in terms

368
00:20:14,940 --> 00:20:18,330
of this, like, sort of like, the
disjointed nature of sort of

369
00:20:18,330 --> 00:20:21,720
like expectations versus
reality. Yeah, and like, you

370
00:20:21,720 --> 00:20:23,880
know, I think it is true that
like my I do have brunch with

371
00:20:23,880 --> 00:20:26,340
like, my friends and we all
gossip and stuff. It is really

372
00:20:26,340 --> 00:20:29,280
wonderful, but it's still not
like, at least for me something

373
00:20:29,280 --> 00:20:32,580
that is like a weekly occurrence
as it was like for them.

374
00:20:32,690 --> 00:20:34,490
Lucy Dearlove: Although the
depiction of New York brunches

375
00:20:34,490 --> 00:20:38,060
was a cultural reset for anyone
who even fleetingly watched Sex

376
00:20:38,060 --> 00:20:41,600
and the City. I think in the UK,
the options available are more

377
00:20:41,600 --> 00:20:44,840
heavily influenced by a
different brunch culture. I

378
00:20:44,840 --> 00:20:47,390
didn't intend for this series to
become a love letter to

379
00:20:47,390 --> 00:20:50,570
Australian breakfast, but anyone
who's listened to the subscriber

380
00:20:50,570 --> 00:20:54,560
episodes will realize that it
did nonetheless, Bre and Lara

381
00:20:54,590 --> 00:20:57,110
both mentioned the influence of
Bill Grainger - he of the

382
00:20:57,110 --> 00:21:00,920
eponymous Bills  - on brunch
culture both in the UK and at

383
00:21:00,920 --> 00:21:02,060
home in Australia.

384
00:21:02,420 --> 00:21:04,040
Bre Graham: I mean, I think
there's there's definitely some

385
00:21:04,040 --> 00:21:06,230
Australian that like to say that
they you know, we invented

386
00:21:06,230 --> 00:21:11,690
brunch to an extent I think that
could be true. I you know, Bill

387
00:21:11,690 --> 00:21:15,950
Granger is the king of the
Australian brunch and 100% I

388
00:21:15,950 --> 00:21:19,910
mean, I grew up cooking from his
books. He was a big influence my

389
00:21:19,910 --> 00:21:22,850
mum cooked from his books,
because we lived away from

390
00:21:22,880 --> 00:21:25,490
Sydney for a long time. And so
like Sydney food one of his

391
00:21:25,490 --> 00:21:28,370
first ones, I think that's the
book that the ricotta hotcakes

392
00:21:28,370 --> 00:21:32,840
are in, which is like famous,
and yeah, they that yeah,

393
00:21:32,870 --> 00:21:34,730
definitely a formative recipe.

394
00:21:34,000 --> 00:21:37,081
Lara Lee: Hmm. I feel like in
Sydney and Australia, I should

395
00:21:36,190 --> 00:23:27,820
I grew up in London and I moved
there when I was 18. Okay, so

396
00:21:37,142 --> 00:21:40,224
say, Bill Grainger, really
pioneered the the great

397
00:21:40,285 --> 00:21:44,106
Australian brunches? You know, I
think he invented kind of the

398
00:21:44,168 --> 00:21:47,865
smashed avo on toast kind of
movement back in the day. And I

399
00:21:47,927 --> 00:21:51,747
think in Australia because the
lifestyle and the weather. It's

400
00:21:51,809 --> 00:21:55,568
very outdoorsy, so cafes will
have outdoor seating. And you'd

401
00:21:55,630 --> 00:21:59,512
probably typically say that nine
months of the year, it's going

402
00:21:59,574 --> 00:22:03,518
to be warm enough to sit outside
in a T shirt. So when you think

403
00:22:03,579 --> 00:22:07,400
of, I guess antipodean cuisine,
it is, you know, it celebrates

404
00:22:07,462 --> 00:22:11,467
fresh produce, you know, because
Australia is, well, obviously an

405
00:22:11,529 --> 00:22:15,226
island, so an amazing seafood
scene. So you might often find

406
00:22:15,288 --> 00:22:18,985
seafood finding its way into
brunch menus as well. And we're

407
00:22:19,047 --> 00:22:22,929
going beyond your kind of smoked
salmon here we're talking, you

408
00:22:22,991 --> 00:22:26,873
know, like bagels with prawns on
them. And, you know, beautiful

409
00:22:26,935 --> 00:22:30,632
kind of gin-cured maybe like
snapper is finding its way into

410
00:22:30,694 --> 00:22:34,699
your breakfast plate. So there's
like different applications. And

411
00:22:34,761 --> 00:22:38,089
also, there's also like
beautiful native Australian, I

412
00:22:38,150 --> 00:22:42,033
guess, ingredients that might be
incorporated. So the beautiful

413
00:22:42,094 --> 00:22:45,730
finger line, which is like kind
of like little, almost like

414
00:22:45,792 --> 00:22:49,181
caviar pills, of like a lime
kind of juice will kind of

415
00:22:49,243 --> 00:22:53,063
potentially be on the plate. You
might get beautiful macadamia

416
00:22:53,125 --> 00:22:56,576
nuts or whatever it might be.
But I think there's a real

417
00:22:56,638 --> 00:23:00,150
celebration of Australian
produce at the heart of it. And

418
00:23:00,212 --> 00:23:03,909
it's typically quite, I say that
it will keep you full until

419
00:23:03,971 --> 00:23:07,607
dinner, but it still feels like
you could still have a surf

420
00:23:07,668 --> 00:23:11,489
afterwards, you can still have
an active day so you feel full,

421
00:23:11,551 --> 00:23:15,187
but you don't maybe not in the
same way that if I went to a

422
00:23:15,248 --> 00:23:18,761
greasy spoon and and had a kind
of Yeah, it's very, heavy

423
00:23:18,822 --> 00:23:22,582
breakfast. You know, like, I
might have a nap after that. But

424
00:23:22,643 --> 00:23:25,540
yes, this is a brunch that does
not need a nap.

425
00:23:27,820 --> 00:23:28,660
like 2223

426
00:23:29,590 --> 00:23:32,350
Lucy Dearlove: That's a real
like, formative time.

427
00:23:32,350 --> 00:23:34,660
Thea Everett: I loved it so
much. And like all my friends

428
00:23:34,660 --> 00:23:38,770
are still really miss and close
to the breakfast.

429
00:23:39,430 --> 00:23:41,740
Lucy Dearlove: Yeah, so I was
gonna ask you about this because

430
00:23:41,740 --> 00:23:44,200
I had seen that I was sort of
aware that you'd lived in

431
00:23:44,000 --> 00:23:46,310
Thea Everett: Yeah cos I bang on
about it all the time.

432
00:23:44,200 --> 00:23:44,920
Australia.

433
00:23:46,340 --> 00:23:49,490
Lucy Dearlove: But in a nice
way, in a way this is obviously

434
00:23:49,490 --> 00:23:52,970
like important to you. So yeah,
talk to me about Australian

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00:23:52,970 --> 00:23:53,510
breakfast.

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00:23:53,540 --> 00:23:56,030
Thea Everett: Yeah, so they're
just amazing. But I think it has

437
00:23:56,030 --> 00:23:59,720
changed since when I left that I
think young people don't

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00:24:00,020 --> 00:24:02,780
seem....my friends my age don't
seem to go out for breakfast as

439
00:24:02,780 --> 00:24:07,190
much in the same way. I think
maybe economic reasons.

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00:24:07,550 --> 00:24:09,470
Lucy Dearlove: I think it's a
bit 'cost of living'

441
00:24:09,740 --> 00:24:11,600
Thea Everett: Yeah, I think and
I think they're just a bit like,

442
00:24:11,930 --> 00:24:18,230
that's not It's not cool. It's
not what we do anymore. But like

443
00:24:18,230 --> 00:24:21,140
it was I loved it at the time.
Like I'd go every weekend when I

444
00:24:21,140 --> 00:24:24,470
lived there. I'd go with my
family or with friends and just

445
00:24:24,470 --> 00:24:29,360
like have something like I
worked as a dishie. What would

446
00:24:29,360 --> 00:24:30,560
you call that dishwasher?

447
00:24:30,560 --> 00:24:31,040
Lucy Dearlove: Pot washer?

448
00:24:31,000 --> 00:24:34,660
Thea Everett: Pot washer, yeah.
Dishie is what they'd call it,

449
00:24:34,660 --> 00:24:38,680
yeah, in a breakfast cafe my
favourite breakfast cafe. I was

450
00:24:38,680 --> 00:24:41,410
going through a really hard time
at the time. So it was it was a

451
00:24:41,410 --> 00:24:44,680
bit of a weird time in my life.
But sure, I did get to learn a

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00:24:44,680 --> 00:24:47,500
lot of cool shit like how to
make the best omelettes in the

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00:24:47,500 --> 00:24:47,950
world.

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00:24:51,220 --> 00:24:54,700
Lucy Dearlove: I can't quite
explain to you why I was really

455
00:24:54,700 --> 00:24:58,360
drawn to the idea of breakfast
as something to explore in this

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00:24:58,360 --> 00:25:01,960
series. I think one of the
things that I find really

457
00:25:01,960 --> 00:25:05,740
interesting about it is how
private is; it's probably the

458
00:25:05,740 --> 00:25:09,340
most private meal most of us
eat. It's not often a meal that

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00:25:09,340 --> 00:25:11,860
we share with people we don't
live with. It's not often a meal

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00:25:11,860 --> 00:25:15,400
that I personally post on
Instagram. Unless I have

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00:25:15,400 --> 00:25:18,310
deviated from the norm and I'm
eating something more aesthetic.

462
00:25:19,180 --> 00:25:21,010
Most of us don't eat in the
morning at all, which is

463
00:25:21,010 --> 00:25:23,680
something I can't relate to at
all as I'm an absolute nightmare

464
00:25:23,680 --> 00:25:28,600
if I haven't eaten before I
leave the house. But my muesli

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00:25:28,600 --> 00:25:32,320
habit, my routine of breakfast,
ingrained, though it is is one

466
00:25:32,320 --> 00:25:37,120
that leaves me somehow
unsatisfied. I'm puzzled why my

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00:25:37,150 --> 00:25:40,270
go-to breakfast is ended up
being broadly sweet. Even though

468
00:25:40,270 --> 00:25:43,330
I don't really have a sweet
tooth. It's also very dairy

469
00:25:43,330 --> 00:25:48,220
heavy in a way that I feel
uncomfortable about. I think

470
00:25:48,220 --> 00:25:50,590
there's a lot of other things I
would prefer to eat for

471
00:25:50,590 --> 00:25:56,110
breakfast. You know, eggs on
toast, something lovely on rice,

472
00:25:56,440 --> 00:26:01,780
a bowl of congee with chicken
and some chili oil, they would

473
00:26:01,780 --> 00:26:07,510
all be preferable, really. But
I'm too lazy or too disorganized

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00:26:07,510 --> 00:26:10,150
or it feels logistically
impossible to make these

475
00:26:10,150 --> 00:26:15,520
breakfasts happen on a regular
basis. I'm also kind of

476
00:26:15,550 --> 00:26:21,010
fascinated by the health culture
around muesli and other oat

477
00:26:21,010 --> 00:26:25,570
based breakfasts. They feel like
something that comes from a

478
00:26:25,570 --> 00:26:31,600
real, like, ancient culture of
grains, when of course that's

479
00:26:31,600 --> 00:26:35,110
not true. They were I think
muesli was invented in like 1900

480
00:26:35,140 --> 00:26:41,740
by a Swiss doctor. You know,
it's all marketing, and I feel

481
00:26:41,740 --> 00:26:44,650
kind of weird about the fact
that I've been so firmly sucked

482
00:26:44,650 --> 00:26:51,880
into it. And I found harmony in
the conversations I had with

483
00:26:51,880 --> 00:26:55,090
other people while making the
series. Other people's breakfast

484
00:26:55,090 --> 00:26:58,060
habits seem to clash with how
they eat and cook other meals

485
00:26:58,060 --> 00:27:01,780
just as mine do. Thea confessed
to me that at the time of her

486
00:27:01,780 --> 00:27:04,930
speaking, she had never even
written a breakfast recipe,

487
00:27:05,050 --> 00:27:07,930
though I am delighted to say
that that is no longer the case,

488
00:27:07,960 --> 00:27:11,530
as she recently shared a recipe
for breakfast, Peter on what's

489
00:27:11,590 --> 00:27:14,410
your cooking fear? In my honor,
no less, which I'm thrilled

490
00:27:14,410 --> 00:27:19,690
about. Maybe I should rethink
what I have for breakfast, but

491
00:27:19,690 --> 00:27:26,080
also, maybe I'm overthinking it.
I think I want to leave you with

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00:27:26,080 --> 00:27:29,470
Bettina whose approach to
breakfast I think is the one I'm

493
00:27:29,470 --> 00:27:34,240
most want to emulate. I'm gonna
let Bettina have the last word.

494
00:27:34,570 --> 00:27:39,700
Breakfast can be beautiful,
elaborate, luxurious. But

495
00:27:39,700 --> 00:27:42,880
sometimes they can also just be
an egg.

496
00:27:46,230 --> 00:27:48,090
Bettina Makalintal: So yeah, on
the weekend, it's actually a

497
00:27:48,090 --> 00:27:51,990
little bit more simplified, if
not a little bit more sort of

498
00:27:51,990 --> 00:27:55,830
like, like often we'll just make
sort of like rice and an egg and

499
00:27:55,830 --> 00:27:58,380
like put a bunch of really good
sauces on it. Yeah, I mean

500
00:27:58,380 --> 00:28:01,800
weirdly the like single most
successful thing I ever posted

501
00:28:01,800 --> 00:28:06,990
on Tik Tok was was literally
just like an egg on rice. It

502
00:28:07,020 --> 00:28:09,900
like literally just an egg on
rice with I think like chili

503
00:28:09,900 --> 00:28:10,920
crisp at the end

504
00:28:18,610 --> 00:28:20,620
Lucy Dearlove: thanks so much
for listening to this episode of

505
00:28:20,620 --> 00:28:24,010
Lecker. And thanks very much to
all my guests who took the time

506
00:28:24,010 --> 00:28:27,580
to talk to me about and even in
some cases cook me breakfast.

507
00:28:28,360 --> 00:28:30,910
Thanks to Bre Graham, whose
cookbook Table for Two is out

508
00:28:30,910 --> 00:28:33,820
now. Thanks to Bettina
Makalintal whose work you can

509
00:28:33,820 --> 00:28:37,840
find on Eater and on TikTok of
course, thanks to Gurdeep Loyal

510
00:28:37,840 --> 00:28:41,080
whose book Mother Tongue is out
now. Thanks to Dan Hancox and

511
00:28:41,080 --> 00:28:43,810
Dr. Kasia Tee who you can listen
to regularly on the brilliant

512
00:28:43,810 --> 00:28:47,320
podcast Cursed Cbjects. Thanks
to Thea Everett, you can

513
00:28:47,320 --> 00:28:49,480
subscribe to What's That You're
Cooking, Thea? on

514
00:28:49,480 --> 00:28:53,110
substack...highly recommend you
do. And finally thanks to Lara

515
00:28:53,110 --> 00:28:58,150
Lee, whose new book A Splash of
Soy is out now. If you'd like to

516
00:28:58,150 --> 00:29:00,670
hear those longer conversations
about breakfast with all of the

517
00:29:00,670 --> 00:29:03,790
people above, you can sign up as
a paid subscriber to support

518
00:29:03,790 --> 00:29:06,850
lecker on Apple Podcasts,
Patreon. And also now on

519
00:29:06,850 --> 00:29:10,420
substack. Links are in the show
notes and any paid subscribers

520
00:29:10,420 --> 00:29:13,060
who are listening here. Thank
you so much for your continued

521
00:29:13,060 --> 00:29:18,460
support. Music is by Kevin
MacLeod at Incompetech I will be

522
00:29:18,460 --> 00:29:21,400
back in your feed with another
episode very soon. Thanks for

523
00:29:21,400 --> 00:29:21,880
listening

