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Lucy: This is Lecker.

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I'm Lucy Dearlove.

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This is July's installment
of the Lecker book club.

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Each month an episode highlights
a recent food related publication

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through an interview with the
person responsible for writing it.

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This one is a little bit different though.

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Firstly, because this book isn't
technically fully recently published.

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London Feeds Itself was first
published back in September 22, a

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collaboration between Vittles founder
and co editor Jonathan Nunn and the

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architectural charity Open City.

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Through 25 essays by different
writers, including Jeremy Corbyn on

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his allotment and Claudia Roden on
Hampstead Garden suburb, threaded

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together by notes on restaurants,
areas and communities by Jonathan.

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He explores eating and cooking and
being fed and feeding within the city.

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The first edition, with its striking
purple cover, library book esque

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perspex dust cover, and pull out
poster of a huge, beautiful collage

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map of London by Anna Hodgson and Harry
Derby, sold out almost immediately.

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But anyone who missed out would have
been happy to hear the news of version 2.

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0, published in collaboration with
Fitzcarraldo in March this year,

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with a new cover and two new essays.

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The idea of centering the architecture
of London's spaces for eating and

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cooking is unusual in food writing,
restaurant writing in particular,

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where food and stories from the
table can exist nakedly on the plate.

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Divorced of any physical
or emotional context.

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Instead, London Feeds Itself embeds
eating as part of the city's physical

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culture, and so expresses without
ambiguity how the politics, geography

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and economics of life affect what we eat
and those who produce and cook it for us.

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As the back cover of the first edition put
it, this book shows that the true centres

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of London food culture can be found in
ever more creative uses of space, eked

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out by the people who make up the city.

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This is particularly evident in
Melek Erdal's essay, The Warehouse.

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Hidden people, hidden spaces, it begins.

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In it, Melek, a Kurdish chef, writer
and storyteller, Born in Istanbul and

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who moved with her parents to London
as a child, describes the physical

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shock of the experience she had
accidentally going back to one of the

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northeast London warehouses where her
parents worked in textile factories.

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Melek: It felt so surreal
sitting there and I think I felt

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even more resentful about it.

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having a flapjack when I knew the
incredible meals that happened in that

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space, in that secret space, you know?

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Lucy: Honestly, I've wanted to
interview Melek for ages, having

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loved her writing for a long time.

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Her poetic, meandering recipe
column in Vittles is something I

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drop everything to read every time.

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And so I jumped at the chance to
have breakfast at her house and

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talk about her London Feeds Itself
essay, and also more broadly about

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London and about Kurdish food.

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Melek: There's absolutely no way
you're coming to, like, to my home

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and not being fed, that's like,
absolutely ridiculous and rude.

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You're coming to my home for the
first time, and you've schlepped

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all the way from, like, not even
Lewisham, like, further away from

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that, actually, when we think about it.

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Lucy: Yeah, I mean, technically,
but, you know, I'm glad to be here.

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Melek: Of course I'm going
to feed you, of course.

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Right,

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regular tea?

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Lucy: Yes, please.

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Like, Fiji tea?

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You're welcome.

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Pidgey tips.

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What was that?

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Pidgey tips?

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Yeah, great.

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Perfect.

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Melek: Great.

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So, I went to Green Lanes, you
know, my favourite, uh, street.

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I love going there for like,
me time on the weekend.

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So I have like these favourite
grocers for different things.

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So like, every grocer, uh,
has something that I love.

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So there's Doslar Supermarket.

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They get like their spring onions
from allotments and their cucumbers.

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So I go there for that.

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Lucy: Cucumbers as well.

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Yeah, yeah.

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Cucumbers are your thing.

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They're my thing.

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Melek: Yeah.

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Like what I call regular size cucumbers,
but what you like in the UK might not, you

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in the UK, I'm from the UK, but here in
the UK you might consider mini cucumbers.

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For me, It's regular.

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They're normal cucumbers.

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Because it's so weird to
get one giant cucumber.

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It's so weird.

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You don't get one massive.

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You get loads of like regular sized
cucumber, which tastes more amazing.

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I was gonna say,

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Lucy: they have more flavor,
don't they, those little

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Melek: ones?

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They do.

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They have more flavor.

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You can just eat it without peeling it,
like, you know, just, just grab it and go.

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It's a very, very Kurdish thing.

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Iranians love it too.

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Often, it's those sized
cucumbers are called.

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Iranian cucumbers for

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Music: some reason.

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Melek: But yeah, so I got, uh, cucumbers
and spring onions from there, and

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then I got rocket from Hello Haringey.

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Nice.

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And then I went to Yashan Halim,
which is like the old, like the

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longest running grocer in Greenlands.

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They're a Turkish Cypriot place, and I got
some tomatoes and some black olives from

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there, and I got this special bread called
Saman bread, which I'm gonna show you.

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So basically I wanted to do a
traditional breakfast that's just loads

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of little fresh bits that you pick and
you make your own like, sandwiches.

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I'm so excited!

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Yeah.

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Lucy: So what's this?

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Melek: Oh, so this is
sivribiber or külbiber.

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So It's green pepper that is really long
and thin and kulbubar means hair pepper.

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So it's like, like strands of hair,
yeah, like thin like strands of hair.

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And

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Lucy: they're so beautiful, aren't

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Melek: they?

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And I find that they've got a lot more
flavor in them and you don't have to de

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seed or anything because you can't anyway.

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So much like, I would say they're
much like a padron pepper in flavor,

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where they're not too fleshy.

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But they just pack so much flavor, and
they're sweet, they're not, um, too long.

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And these are great fried
as well, or in food.

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But I'm literally going to wash
this fresh rocket, these savoury

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pepper cucumbers, and I'm just going
to slice, drizzle with olive oil,

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salt, Have good bread, feta cheese,
olives, and good tea, and that's it.

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Oh, oh, I forgot about the gözleme.

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I got gözleme from the best place
to have gözleme, which is Hala.

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Yes!

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Yeah, yeah,

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Lucy: I've been to the restaurant,
but not to Yeah, yeah, Hala,

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Melek: the aunties, well, Hala means
auntie, and the aunties at Hala make

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the best, because they're not greasy.

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I find that a lot of
places over grease, um, Mm.

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These are great.

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So yeah, I'm just gonna wash
these and we can, yeah, get going.

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Brilliant.

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Come smell the rocket.

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Like, the minute the water
hits you can smell it.

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Can you smell it?

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Right?

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This is like my, this is proper rocket.

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Lucy: So, how long have you been
going to Green Lanes to shop?

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Melek: Since I've, since I've been in
this, um, country since I was four.

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Well, when I say since I was four,
like when I asked my mum about

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what was available, like, from our
regions back then, it was very, very,

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Yashar HaLim was the only place.

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Oh, wow.

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So, Yashar HaLim.

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the Turkish Cypriot place because
there was a migration of Turkish

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Cypriots way before like mainland
Turkey or Kurds or, um, political

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exile, like, you know, happened.

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So Turkish Cypriots I think came,
there was a wave that came in the

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50s and 60s, so as far as back then,
some even have earlier heritage.

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So the kebab shops, the first kebab
shops, like in London, I think were

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Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot.

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And then yeah, and Yashar Hailem was
the first grocer that we could go to

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and find things we recognized, you know.

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And

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Lucy: that's, that's
so important, isn't it?

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When you arrive somewhere
and everything's unfamiliar.

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Melek: It's, I mean, it becomes an event,
like the whole community will very quickly

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find out where something is, you know.

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It's like, they've got salto, which
is sun dried tomato and pepper paste,

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which is basically the base of all
foods, you know, from our Eden.

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It's like, so integral to
all of our soups and stews.

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So I remember those firsts, there were
so many firsts in those times, like,

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and communication was really important.

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So one person discovering something,
And letting everyone know, so everyone,

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but even if it's a bad thing, like,
oh, don't do this, it's against the

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rules in this country to do that.

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A weird

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Lucy: unspoken

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Melek: thing that, yeah.

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Yeah, you'll end up in prison, like
Uncle Suleiman ended up in prison

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for that, don't do that, you know.

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It was like this pre mobile phones,
but people were so interconnected,

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we did everything together.

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And food was at the heart
of that, you ate communally.

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So.

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And then once we started opening up
our own businesses, they were food

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businesses, and it was because, you
know, there wasn't space to do other

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jobs when you first moved here.

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It didn't matter if you were an engineer
in Turkey, you couldn't be that here.

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So food businesses became the thing
that, you know, was our entry into this

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country before we had a grasp of the
language, before we had a grasp of the

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rules, and also it was a Perfect business
because also it meant we got to the food.

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Yeah, we were familiar with you know,
yeah Yeah, so I'm cutting up some

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a packet of that backpack or black

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Lucy: olives lovely Yeah,

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Melek: so these are traditional
to have for breakfast.

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Lucy: Okay, and

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Melek: they're not in A jar or in
brine, so they're not, uh, sour.

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So that's the

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Lucy: difference.

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That's

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Melek: the difference.

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They're just in, they're oily there, but
they're not actually soaked in olive oil.

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They're just backpacked, so
it's their own oil around them.

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If you have nothing for a traditional
breakfast, you have tea, you have

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strong black tea, you have olives and
feta cheese and bread and that's it.

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And that would be your, that's
our croissant in the morning.

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I love what a breakfast says about.

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a country or a people, because
everywhere in the world, I'm so,

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I'm always so curious, what is
the breakfast culture in a place?

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Lucy: Me too, yeah.

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Right?

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Yeah.

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Isn't

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Melek: that amazing?

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Like, it's so, so interesting.

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Yeah.

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But then like, yeah, cause when
you actually, when you go to a

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place like Spain where they eat
really late, like they'll, right,

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their evening meal is what?

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10, 11?

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10,

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Lucy: yeah, at least.

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It's like,

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Melek: what?

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My, my temperament could not,
constitution could not handle.

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Lucy: Yeah.

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Melek: I don't know if that's,
The Britishness in me now.

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Like, because I don't know
how it is, like, at home.

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I don't think they eat late
either, because rurally it

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wouldn't make sense, because you

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Lucy: Yeah.

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In

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Melek: rural regions you You've got

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Lucy: to get up early, so Yeah, you've

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Melek: got to get up early, and also
it's not practical with, like, you

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know, sun, sunset and everything.

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Lucy: Yeah.

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That's so interesting though, and
that must be, like, a tricky thing to

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navigate, like, being part of two places.

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And being like, which
is, what, from where?

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00:11:26,334 --> 00:11:28,854
Melek: It's the challenge of
my entire existence, Lucy,

235
00:11:28,904 --> 00:11:32,644
like that's Like, I don't know.

236
00:11:32,644 --> 00:11:35,574
It's like, I'm, it's, it's going
to be the thing, uh, that I

237
00:11:35,574 --> 00:11:37,064
battle with, like, my entire life.

238
00:11:37,114 --> 00:11:40,474
Like, it's a constant,
like, where does this sit?

239
00:11:40,494 --> 00:11:41,714
Where do I sit in this?

240
00:11:41,755 --> 00:11:47,695
And my understanding, my sense of
self, it's, it's, it's, you know,

241
00:11:47,765 --> 00:11:50,265
you come into terms of your identity.

242
00:11:50,775 --> 00:11:55,975
And it, I think that's a question
for everyone constantly, right?

243
00:11:56,315 --> 00:12:00,185
But I think it just becomes more
nuanced and complicated when you're

244
00:12:00,185 --> 00:12:04,545
not from one, one place, or maybe
you're not even from any place.

245
00:12:05,015 --> 00:12:11,215
That's what, like, I think, that's what
I kind of had to come to realize, that

246
00:12:11,225 --> 00:12:16,739
I'm not, It's like, being from somewhere
is quite an abstract thing for me because

247
00:12:17,290 --> 00:12:23,250
whilst I was born in Turkey, Istanbul
was not, like, I was born in Istanbul,

248
00:12:23,250 --> 00:12:25,089
that's not where my family were from.

249
00:12:25,109 --> 00:12:30,389
They were uprooted from their rural
lives, moved to Istanbul, and, and

250
00:12:30,389 --> 00:12:36,149
also, you know, we, we, we were kind of
secondary as citizens from, because of our

251
00:12:36,860 --> 00:12:39,340
Kurdishness and also our Alevi culture.

252
00:12:40,000 --> 00:12:42,430
So you had that as well,
where your language.

253
00:12:42,724 --> 00:12:47,964
You already don't have the language, your
mother tongue, and then you move here

254
00:12:47,964 --> 00:12:52,865
and then you, you're like another step
away from that mother tongue, because now

255
00:12:52,914 --> 00:12:53,064
Music: you

256
00:12:54,294 --> 00:12:56,604
Melek: have to figure out English
when you, like parents were

257
00:12:56,605 --> 00:13:00,154
figuring out Turkish, so no
one speaks anything in English.

258
00:13:00,235 --> 00:13:01,205
particularly well.

259
00:13:01,875 --> 00:13:07,545
So actually, language isn't the superior,
most superior form of communication.

260
00:13:07,785 --> 00:13:11,505
That's why food is, because
it's kind of, it can't be

261
00:13:11,505 --> 00:13:14,024
misinterpreted as easily, right?

262
00:13:14,445 --> 00:13:17,505
Lucy: Yeah, that's such, like,
that's kind of like a heart

263
00:13:17,525 --> 00:13:18,915
stopping way to put it, like that.

264
00:13:18,945 --> 00:13:22,145
Actually, I think we, I think maybe
in this country there is a kind of

265
00:13:22,145 --> 00:13:26,194
like understanding of Language and
specifically like often written language

266
00:13:26,194 --> 00:13:29,115
as being like the highest form of
that's the official communication.

267
00:13:29,115 --> 00:13:33,395
Nothing else really matters unless it's
Expressed in words in that way, but

268
00:13:33,625 --> 00:13:37,434
that's such a beautiful way of putting
it And like the idea of yeah lived

269
00:13:37,435 --> 00:13:42,104
experience and the things that you make
for each other to eat being more important

270
00:13:42,804 --> 00:13:46,290
Melek: Yeah, I mean written
language is never being a superior

271
00:13:46,290 --> 00:13:50,060
form of communication, I think,
in our culture and our people.

272
00:13:50,060 --> 00:13:53,150
And I write about that in my,
like, Vittles columns a lot.

273
00:13:53,150 --> 00:13:57,509
Like, I think the whole premise of
the Vittles column came about because,

274
00:13:57,509 --> 00:14:01,560
you know, of this conversation of,
for us, food being a superior form of

275
00:14:01,560 --> 00:14:08,920
language and then it actually being
the vessel with which I Grasp, like

276
00:14:08,930 --> 00:14:13,330
I could hold on to parts of Kurdish
language, a language I don't know.

277
00:14:13,440 --> 00:14:13,860
Yeah.

278
00:14:13,870 --> 00:14:20,170
By having the idea of food being a
conduit to trace back to your roots and

279
00:14:20,210 --> 00:14:22,039
being able to do that with a word too.

280
00:14:22,070 --> 00:14:27,059
So I pick a word that I really
like because I get to like words

281
00:14:27,080 --> 00:14:31,324
because I don't know Kurdish I get
to look at it from the outside and

282
00:14:31,324 --> 00:14:36,295
go, Oh, I really like that word and
really explore it like it's new.

283
00:14:36,734 --> 00:14:38,135
And so I pick a word.

284
00:14:38,504 --> 00:14:42,865
I write about the etymology of the
word and the roots and what it means.

285
00:14:43,194 --> 00:14:48,454
And I love that there's no direct little
translation for a word because it's

286
00:14:48,454 --> 00:14:50,615
so much from the earth it comes from.

287
00:14:50,974 --> 00:14:52,875
much like food is, right?

288
00:14:53,175 --> 00:14:53,925
Produce is.

289
00:14:54,234 --> 00:14:59,085
So I love like aligning the two and
kind of weaving them into each other

290
00:14:59,175 --> 00:15:00,745
and then just coming up with a recipe.

291
00:15:01,035 --> 00:15:05,454
And it's been my way of, again,
like coming to terms with

292
00:15:05,694 --> 00:15:07,615
what my identity means to me.

293
00:15:07,625 --> 00:15:14,050
And, and now I'm in a place where I
think it's exciting that I'm this,

294
00:15:14,050 --> 00:15:16,770
like, would vagrant be the right word?

295
00:15:16,770 --> 00:15:17,120
I

296
00:15:17,120 --> 00:15:20,560
Lucy: think it's a nice, yeah, I feel like
maybe it has a derogatory connotation.

297
00:15:20,560 --> 00:15:21,110
Doesn't it?

298
00:15:21,110 --> 00:15:21,420
Does

299
00:15:21,420 --> 00:15:21,729
Melek: it?

300
00:15:21,729 --> 00:15:22,039
But

301
00:15:22,040 --> 00:15:24,640
Lucy: I think that's
probably a reflection on us.

302
00:15:24,689 --> 00:15:25,100
Right.

303
00:15:25,100 --> 00:15:29,770
The people that have decided that
it's negative to move around.

304
00:15:29,779 --> 00:15:30,109
Yeah.

305
00:15:30,109 --> 00:15:32,419
And have no fixed sense of home.

306
00:15:32,590 --> 00:15:33,040
Yeah,

307
00:15:33,040 --> 00:15:37,319
Melek: so it's like, although I have a
very fixed sense of, I'm from London.

308
00:15:37,390 --> 00:15:37,910
Yeah.

309
00:15:37,970 --> 00:15:41,029
I don't have a fixed sense
of, like, what that means.

310
00:15:41,030 --> 00:15:41,620
Yeah.

311
00:15:41,700 --> 00:15:42,270
And.

312
00:15:42,569 --> 00:15:44,800
It just means that you,
you're just resourceful.

313
00:15:44,849 --> 00:15:49,709
I feel like it's just, it means
I'm resourceful and just throw

314
00:15:49,709 --> 00:15:53,479
whatever at me, I'll, I'll make it,
like, I'll root it in something.

315
00:15:53,490 --> 00:15:54,030
Lucy: Yeah.

316
00:15:54,440 --> 00:15:59,039
I love how you approach your columns
so much because I think so much.

317
00:15:59,255 --> 00:16:04,065
A food writing is about authority and
being like an expert on something and I

318
00:16:04,075 --> 00:16:05,485
think there's absolutely room for that.

319
00:16:05,925 --> 00:16:08,114
I think there are some, I think there
are some writers that do it badly,

320
00:16:08,645 --> 00:16:10,825
but I think there are some writers
that do it really beautifully.

321
00:16:10,985 --> 00:16:14,454
But I also think there's so much
space to like sit between things

322
00:16:14,784 --> 00:16:17,960
and be like, you know, I don't
know, but this is how I feel.

323
00:16:18,460 --> 00:16:18,990
Melek: Right?

324
00:16:19,240 --> 00:16:25,040
And I get to, yeah, like, I love that,
because how can anyone be the, I find

325
00:16:25,050 --> 00:16:29,430
it all so absurd, like, assuming you're,
you have authority on anything in life.

326
00:16:29,430 --> 00:16:30,880
Yeah, I agree, yeah, I totally agree.

327
00:16:30,880 --> 00:16:34,629
And so, like, anything in life, so,
I How could you have the audacity?

328
00:16:34,690 --> 00:16:39,340
Yeah, I love that word, actually, because
I think immigrant energy, as I call it,

329
00:16:39,420 --> 00:16:45,864
is, like, Like having the audacity to
exist, having the audacity to, to try to

330
00:16:45,864 --> 00:16:50,444
speak English and like, do it confidently
and just be creative and resourceful.

331
00:16:50,474 --> 00:16:56,094
And when it comes to authority, that
is just like authority over anything.

332
00:16:56,135 --> 00:16:59,675
I think it's, we learned, you know,
we've had to learn quickly that

333
00:17:00,545 --> 00:17:04,474
it's absurd and it's corrupt often.

334
00:17:04,805 --> 00:17:06,665
And so just to be able to.

335
00:17:07,030 --> 00:17:08,589
Move around and be flexible with it.

336
00:17:08,640 --> 00:17:12,140
I think of the first interview
actually before I had the column

337
00:17:12,140 --> 00:17:18,920
like Jonathan the editor of it tools
Reached out wanted to do an interview

338
00:17:18,920 --> 00:17:22,999
and we actually did the interview
on Green Lanes In the Albuquerque

339
00:17:23,010 --> 00:17:29,020
restaurant, and he said he asked me
at the end I think towards the end of

340
00:17:29,020 --> 00:17:31,379
the interview, what is Kurdish food?

341
00:17:31,909 --> 00:17:34,919
He asked me, and I said,
it's anything I make.

342
00:17:36,439 --> 00:17:37,020
Right.

343
00:17:37,030 --> 00:17:40,770
It's anything I make, because I'm
Kurdish, so it's Kurdish food.

344
00:17:41,159 --> 00:17:45,489
And I had, I guess I had the audacity
to say, I had to have the audacity to

345
00:17:45,489 --> 00:17:50,270
say that, because who else would give me
that right or that authority otherwise?

346
00:17:50,270 --> 00:17:50,699
No one.

347
00:17:50,909 --> 00:17:55,945
If I gave my authority and my autonomy
to someone else, They would say I have

348
00:17:55,945 --> 00:18:00,754
no right over anything because I don't
have a, an official place I'm from.

349
00:18:00,885 --> 00:18:04,804
So I have to grab that authority and
that autonomy and that audacity to

350
00:18:04,804 --> 00:18:06,374
say, well, it's whatever I cook, mate.

351
00:18:11,024 --> 00:18:14,385
Lucy: So you talked about when you
started going to Green Lanes and you

352
00:18:14,385 --> 00:18:15,514
said that there were loads of firsts.

353
00:18:16,825 --> 00:18:17,305
Melek: Yes.

354
00:18:17,374 --> 00:18:20,005
Lucy: And I wondered if there
were any other like notable firsts

355
00:18:20,065 --> 00:18:21,435
that you wanted to talk about?

356
00:18:22,055 --> 00:18:22,685
Melek: Absolutely.

357
00:18:22,695 --> 00:18:27,509
My, my first first in London,
like my, my first My earliest

358
00:18:27,659 --> 00:18:33,760
very distinctive food memory, I
would say, is, I think I was five.

359
00:18:34,060 --> 00:18:36,209
So, we came here when I was four.

360
00:18:36,570 --> 00:18:41,529
I think I was five and my
parents, um, were visiting a

361
00:18:41,529 --> 00:18:44,560
friend who had a calf in Archway.

362
00:18:45,590 --> 00:18:49,560
I just remember being a kid being taken
around places all the time, right?

363
00:18:49,990 --> 00:18:51,890
The things adults needed to do.

364
00:18:51,970 --> 00:18:56,925
So, it was like not a childhood of
like, What children wanted necessarily,

365
00:18:56,925 --> 00:19:00,665
it's just like, yeah, they were
figuring out work and where to live

366
00:19:00,665 --> 00:19:04,395
and all this, like trying to figure,
so it's all by, like, word of mouth.

367
00:19:04,455 --> 00:19:08,834
You hear someone's got a job somewhere
and you go, and I remember, like,

368
00:19:08,845 --> 00:19:14,735
all my early memories of London when
we first arrived was, like, grey.

369
00:19:15,350 --> 00:19:19,300
Harshness, everything felt harsh,
like people felt harsh and every,

370
00:19:19,570 --> 00:19:24,500
because it was so unfamiliar and
our massive family wasn't around us.

371
00:19:25,089 --> 00:19:30,200
So it felt cold and harsh in loads of ways
and grey, like the colour feeling grey.

372
00:19:30,819 --> 00:19:35,660
And then so we went to this caf and so we
were sitting at the table and mum and dad

373
00:19:35,660 --> 00:19:38,430
were talking to this guy who ran the caf.

374
00:19:39,120 --> 00:19:42,610
And on the table I saw
this bright yellow jar.

375
00:19:42,610 --> 00:19:45,625
And Of, like, English mustard.

376
00:19:46,705 --> 00:19:51,835
And I was so curious, because
it was so bright and so yellow

377
00:19:52,555 --> 00:19:55,725
in this, like, grey place.

378
00:19:55,904 --> 00:19:58,675
You know, like, what felt,
it was the brightest thing.

379
00:19:59,005 --> 00:20:03,205
I, like, it was so, I was like, and it's
on the table, and it's on all the tables.

380
00:20:03,235 --> 00:20:08,775
And I just remember the adults speaking
and thinking, Okay, no, you can't, you

381
00:20:08,775 --> 00:20:10,095
can't touch it, you can't touch it.

382
00:20:10,925 --> 00:20:12,565
They'll notice, they'll see you.

383
00:20:13,395 --> 00:20:16,050
And I'm thinking, No,
but I'm so cu what is it?

384
00:20:16,060 --> 00:20:16,580
What is it?

385
00:20:18,720 --> 00:20:23,749
And then as they were talking I
grabbed it and I opened it and it

386
00:20:23,820 --> 00:20:26,510
just was like a punch in the face.

387
00:20:26,579 --> 00:20:28,070
It was so abusive.

388
00:20:28,639 --> 00:20:34,869
It was so violent and I
was like, this is England.

389
00:20:36,919 --> 00:20:38,490
Now I absolutely love it.

390
00:20:38,490 --> 00:20:44,229
Like I mix it with yogurt and lemon and
olive oil and make it into And so it's

391
00:20:44,230 --> 00:20:51,060
like It's actually a story of how I
have become more British and the UK has

392
00:20:51,060 --> 00:20:56,370
become more Kurdish for me, like yogurt,
the most significant, the most Kurdish

393
00:20:56,370 --> 00:21:00,840
thing possible, meeting mustard and it
working and it being delicious together.

394
00:21:01,219 --> 00:21:05,699
But that was my first meeting of
mustard and it wasn't friendly.

395
00:21:05,899 --> 00:21:06,270
It is

396
00:21:06,270 --> 00:21:06,870
Lucy: really abusive.

397
00:21:06,929 --> 00:21:08,389
It is, too, because

398
00:21:08,410 --> 00:21:11,440
Melek: It's not like
horseradish does, right?

399
00:21:11,530 --> 00:21:13,660
It's got that same quality.

400
00:21:14,030 --> 00:21:16,890
And now I'm like, please
put mustard in my burger.

401
00:21:16,960 --> 00:21:19,270
Please put it, you know, in my bagel.

402
00:21:19,620 --> 00:21:21,690
I love the intensity of it.

403
00:21:22,080 --> 00:21:23,110
I love it so much.

404
00:21:23,129 --> 00:21:24,129
I love the color.

405
00:21:24,190 --> 00:21:26,240
I like, Mustard yellow.

406
00:21:26,280 --> 00:21:26,649
Lucy: Yeah.

407
00:21:27,179 --> 00:21:27,729
Melek: Tablecloth.

408
00:21:27,730 --> 00:21:27,979
Oh my

409
00:21:27,979 --> 00:21:28,540
Lucy: God.

410
00:21:28,550 --> 00:21:28,560
Oh

411
00:21:28,669 --> 00:21:29,669
Melek: my gosh.

412
00:21:30,850 --> 00:21:31,320
Wow.

413
00:21:31,320 --> 00:21:31,570
Wow.

414
00:21:31,600 --> 00:21:32,450
This is dramatic.

415
00:21:32,450 --> 00:21:33,009
This is England.

416
00:21:33,010 --> 00:21:34,360
This is England.

417
00:21:34,600 --> 00:21:34,700
Yeah.

418
00:21:35,070 --> 00:21:36,340
I upset the English clouds.

419
00:21:40,419 --> 00:21:45,590
Literally a rural breakfast is
you're just tearing things, right?

420
00:21:45,949 --> 00:21:51,280
Just placing them on a plate and you
leaving it to you to just construct

421
00:21:52,179 --> 00:21:54,300
however you want to eat it, right?

422
00:21:54,540 --> 00:21:59,129
So it's literally, you
don't do much to it at all.

423
00:21:59,139 --> 00:22:05,630
So I'm cutting off the roots from the
rocket and the spring onion and I'm just

424
00:22:05,630 --> 00:22:09,440
going to place it on the plate like that.

425
00:22:12,340 --> 00:22:17,210
People might be shocked by like having
whole spring onion for breakfast.

426
00:22:17,540 --> 00:22:18,210
Lucy: No I love it.

427
00:22:19,980 --> 00:22:20,720
Melek: for the support.

428
00:22:22,430 --> 00:22:26,140
So with these I'm just gonna,
with the peppers because they're

429
00:22:26,140 --> 00:22:28,510
quite, you just slice them.

430
00:22:30,990 --> 00:22:31,660
Down the middle.

431
00:22:37,510 --> 00:22:39,030
And you wouldn't use a chopping board.

432
00:22:39,390 --> 00:22:46,600
So, you don't, that's, you don't
intervene any more than what you

433
00:22:46,609 --> 00:22:49,469
can do with a knife in your hands.

434
00:22:49,560 --> 00:22:51,820
So, nothing that requires
a chopping board.

435
00:22:53,139 --> 00:22:55,530
Lucy: I love that, you don't
intervene with the produce.

436
00:22:55,949 --> 00:22:56,159
No.

437
00:22:56,209 --> 00:22:56,949
You just let it be.

438
00:22:57,250 --> 00:22:58,479
Melek: Let it be, if it's good.

439
00:22:58,645 --> 00:22:59,564
You can let it be.

440
00:23:00,215 --> 00:23:02,025
And look how gorgeous this tomato is.

441
00:23:02,085 --> 00:23:03,625
Lucy: That's beautiful.

442
00:23:03,715 --> 00:23:06,335
Melek: Dad, my dad would
just tear this tomato.

443
00:23:06,335 --> 00:23:07,625
He wouldn't, he wouldn't cut it.

444
00:23:07,645 --> 00:23:08,715
He'd be like, what are you doing?

445
00:23:10,074 --> 00:23:12,334
I'm trying to be a little more civilized.

446
00:23:16,245 --> 00:23:16,815
Right.

447
00:23:17,984 --> 00:23:19,315
Lucy: That is the most beautiful plate.

448
00:23:20,945 --> 00:23:23,385
Melek: I'm going to sprinkle
some olive oil, some lemon juice

449
00:23:23,385 --> 00:23:24,675
and salt on it in a minute.

450
00:23:25,095 --> 00:23:29,915
I'm just going to plate up some
olives and feta cheese for us as well.

451
00:23:30,840 --> 00:23:33,640
I'm going to cut this bread up
and just cut some gozleme up.

452
00:23:33,830 --> 00:23:35,840
So let's take these to the table.

453
00:23:35,850 --> 00:23:37,800
Oh, let me drizzle it
in olive oil actually.

454
00:23:42,889 --> 00:23:49,520
Yeah, a bit of olive oil on this and then
I'm gonna actually put some black pepper

455
00:23:49,550 --> 00:23:51,839
and can you pass me the Aleppo chili?

456
00:23:51,840 --> 00:23:53,099
Absolutely.

457
00:23:53,100 --> 00:23:55,490
It's um, that one, yeah, that one.

458
00:23:55,580 --> 00:23:56,760
So there's two different types.

459
00:23:57,614 --> 00:24:02,195
That one is a chunkier flake,
and this, this one is, um,

460
00:24:02,215 --> 00:24:07,315
finer, um, and slightly spicier.

461
00:24:09,034 --> 00:24:11,715
But I feel like you can handle
it, I just sense that you can.

462
00:24:13,064 --> 00:24:13,675
I'm honoured.

463
00:24:13,675 --> 00:24:16,104
A bit of sumac on the cucumber as well.

464
00:24:16,175 --> 00:24:17,154
Lucy: Ooh, yes!

465
00:24:17,215 --> 00:24:20,401
Melek: Ooh, I needed to boil
some eggs, what's wrong with me?

466
00:24:20,401 --> 00:24:22,705
Lucy: What's wrong with you?

467
00:24:22,705 --> 00:24:24,024
Shall I put these on the table?

468
00:24:24,205 --> 00:24:24,534
Yes,

469
00:24:24,574 --> 00:24:24,995
Melek: please.

470
00:24:30,925 --> 00:24:35,750
So when we first arrived, we stayed
for six months in my with my uncle

471
00:24:35,750 --> 00:24:38,680
who was in Edmonton, Enfield area.

472
00:24:39,140 --> 00:24:45,050
And then we got given a house,
temporary housing in Muswell

473
00:24:45,050 --> 00:24:45,609
Music: Hill.

474
00:24:45,610 --> 00:24:47,630
Melek: So that was very north as well.

475
00:24:47,650 --> 00:24:51,749
And then, yeah, we got moved to Stamford
Hill in, in Hackney, which is like kind

476
00:24:51,750 --> 00:24:57,040
of northeast, like the, the kind of edge
of Hackney near Tottenham where I am now.

477
00:24:57,070 --> 00:25:01,780
So I've always grown up here, you
know, Stoke Newton, Dawson, all the

478
00:25:02,000 --> 00:25:04,170
Kurdish and Turkish community areas.

479
00:25:04,320 --> 00:25:04,610
Yeah.

480
00:25:04,610 --> 00:25:04,700
It's.

481
00:25:04,959 --> 00:25:07,950
been where I always am.

482
00:25:08,389 --> 00:25:08,850
Yeah.

483
00:25:09,360 --> 00:25:12,179
Lucy: And it's an area
that's changed a lot, right?

484
00:25:12,460 --> 00:25:13,030
Melek: It has.

485
00:25:13,060 --> 00:25:17,849
It has changed a lot, but I feel like
it stayed the same in a lot of ways

486
00:25:17,850 --> 00:25:20,049
as well because of the resilience.

487
00:25:20,679 --> 00:25:23,189
of the Kurdish and Turkish
community that I know

488
00:25:23,550 --> 00:25:23,800
Music: where

489
00:25:23,800 --> 00:25:25,649
Melek: they're always adapting.

490
00:25:25,689 --> 00:25:28,080
So they've not, we've not disappeared.

491
00:25:28,080 --> 00:25:29,349
We've not drifted anywhere.

492
00:25:29,630 --> 00:25:34,199
We've just changed with the changing
tides because there is such an

493
00:25:34,209 --> 00:25:36,360
entrepreneurial spirit in our community.

494
00:25:36,369 --> 00:25:39,299
So it's like, Oh, uh,
you want a barista now?

495
00:25:39,389 --> 00:25:39,939
Okay.

496
00:25:41,720 --> 00:25:43,690
We'll be the best
barista you've ever seen.

497
00:25:43,880 --> 00:25:47,440
We know how to grow a beard, a
very perfectly cropped beard,

498
00:25:47,850 --> 00:25:49,470
and wear a trendy t shirt.

499
00:25:49,870 --> 00:25:53,839
We know how to, like, we'll,
okay, we'll turn everything into

500
00:25:53,860 --> 00:25:56,380
organic wood, like, in our spaces.

501
00:25:56,429 --> 00:25:56,929
We're on it.

502
00:25:57,040 --> 00:26:01,860
We'll, we'll, we'll start
organic, uh, grocers, if you want.

503
00:26:01,860 --> 00:26:05,973
You don't need to go to Whole
Foods, we've got Harvest.

504
00:26:05,973 --> 00:26:06,347
Right?

505
00:26:06,347 --> 00:26:09,339
And like, there's that
ingenuity, there's that tenacity.

506
00:26:10,160 --> 00:26:14,920
We've got that survival instinct, and
I think so, in a lot of ways, community

507
00:26:14,930 --> 00:26:20,790
has stayed the same, as well, as it
managed to survive and stay the same.

508
00:26:21,170 --> 00:26:24,970
Lucy: I feel like some of that ingenuity
that you're talking about, I feel like

509
00:26:24,970 --> 00:26:28,969
some of that is, at least some of it
is, sort of goes uncredited, right?

510
00:26:28,970 --> 00:26:32,220
And I feel like this is something you
wrote about in the London Feeds Itself

511
00:26:32,250 --> 00:26:36,700
essay, sort of, in that you talked
about how the kind of community that

512
00:26:36,710 --> 00:26:42,430
you and your parents, existed in when
you first came to England and how

513
00:26:42,650 --> 00:26:46,740
people in those communities went on
to start, like, incredibly successful,

514
00:26:46,840 --> 00:26:48,230
often food related businesses.

515
00:26:49,390 --> 00:26:53,840
But it's almost like people kind of
go to those restaurants and talk about

516
00:26:53,840 --> 00:26:58,955
them and like, name drop them, but
they don't necessarily understand the

517
00:26:58,955 --> 00:27:03,074
origin or the context, like, I feel
like that was maybe something you were

518
00:27:03,074 --> 00:27:08,384
getting at in, like, people who go to,
like, Mangle 1, Mangle 2, or whatever.

519
00:27:08,555 --> 00:27:08,805
Yeah.

520
00:27:08,835 --> 00:27:11,545
There's maybe like a bit
of the story missing.

521
00:27:11,794 --> 00:27:12,525
Do you feel like that's

522
00:27:12,535 --> 00:27:13,055
Melek: true?

523
00:27:13,154 --> 00:27:17,555
Yeah, yeah, I do feel like the story's,
uh, story's missing, and actually the

524
00:27:17,555 --> 00:27:22,935
essay came about because of that first
interview with Jonathan, where he knew

525
00:27:22,935 --> 00:27:28,899
I was feeling like The Kurdish community
specifically was invisible in talking

526
00:27:28,899 --> 00:27:33,929
about these restaurants that are great,
but them being referred to as Turkish

527
00:27:33,930 --> 00:27:37,060
restaurants when they're Kurdish owned.

528
00:27:37,310 --> 00:27:41,060
The owners are referring to themselves
as Turkish restaurants because it's

529
00:27:41,060 --> 00:27:42,559
more palatable and it's easier.

530
00:27:43,650 --> 00:27:50,035
I felt like the journey and that
struggle is lost in simplifying.

531
00:27:50,045 --> 00:27:52,555
It's not as simple as it's
just a Turkish restaurant.

532
00:27:52,875 --> 00:27:56,224
Yeah, they are Turkish restaurants
because predominantly these are people

533
00:27:56,225 --> 00:27:59,845
from Turkey, but we're Kurdish, and
actually the kind of specific food you're

534
00:27:59,845 --> 00:28:02,275
eating are from Kurdish regions often.

535
00:28:03,179 --> 00:28:07,600
As well, because actually Turkish cuisine
is so vast and so broad, there's, you

536
00:28:07,600 --> 00:28:13,029
know, Mediterranean influence, Circassian
influence, like, the Aegean, all these

537
00:28:13,029 --> 00:28:18,150
different regions, because it's such
like, the position, the, the geography of

538
00:28:18,150 --> 00:28:22,340
Turkey, like, you know, being exposed to
Europe and Asia and all, like, you know.

539
00:28:22,764 --> 00:28:28,054
being part of the, like, silk route,
as it's called, the trade, it does

540
00:28:28,054 --> 00:28:30,235
feel important to be more specific.

541
00:28:30,584 --> 00:28:35,714
And so the essay, the London Feeds
Itself essay, was an opportunity to

542
00:28:36,169 --> 00:28:46,280
To be nuanced, and to kind of, a nod,
an ode to that era, like, my parents

543
00:28:46,300 --> 00:28:53,290
era of migration here, that had to
be private, and be in private spaces.

544
00:28:53,709 --> 00:28:58,760
In hidden spaces as I say in the
essay for so long and it took a lot of

545
00:28:58,770 --> 00:29:01,179
struggle, a lot of beautiful struggle.

546
00:29:01,189 --> 00:29:02,679
It was a very special time.

547
00:29:02,679 --> 00:29:07,449
It was a close knit community then because
of that mutual struggle but it took a lot

548
00:29:07,479 --> 00:29:14,209
of hard work to come out into those public
spaces and be those public spaces people

549
00:29:14,320 --> 00:29:16,459
know and love and have a right to love.

550
00:29:16,810 --> 00:29:19,810
But I just thought it's a way,
here are the places you love

551
00:29:19,810 --> 00:29:22,449
and here's why you love them so
much and here's an opportunity.

552
00:29:23,010 --> 00:29:24,840
To actually love them even more,

553
00:29:25,350 --> 00:29:25,630
Music: you

554
00:29:25,630 --> 00:29:26,162
Melek: know.

555
00:29:37,310 --> 00:29:43,859
in the 80s and 90s when a lot of, you
know, Turkish political exiles and

556
00:29:43,860 --> 00:29:48,390
Kurdish immigrants moved here, there was
very limited option of what the work was

557
00:29:48,390 --> 00:29:54,029
and it was a lot of textile factories
and illegal textile factories often.

558
00:29:54,040 --> 00:29:58,625
So when I say illegal, They were
legal, but there was a lot of people

559
00:29:58,625 --> 00:30:01,845
working who didn't have work permits,
who couldn't get work permits, right?

560
00:30:02,545 --> 00:30:09,214
So these warehouses were mainly in
Hackney, some in Tottenham, Haringey,

561
00:30:09,214 --> 00:30:13,584
some in Edmonton, but mainly in
Hackney warehouses, where you now know

562
00:30:13,584 --> 00:30:17,615
as Hackney, Wick, and Dawson areas.

563
00:30:17,985 --> 00:30:21,975
So the specific one I write
about, well there's two that

564
00:30:21,975 --> 00:30:23,405
I write about in the essay.

565
00:30:23,780 --> 00:30:28,260
One is where Beyond Retro
is now, that building.

566
00:30:28,445 --> 00:30:28,975
So

567
00:30:28,975 --> 00:30:32,465
Lucy: the one that's kind of
like up from Dawson Junction?

568
00:30:32,475 --> 00:30:32,785
Yeah.

569
00:30:32,795 --> 00:30:33,235
That one.

570
00:30:33,735 --> 00:30:36,075
Melek: So the Simpsons house, I think.

571
00:30:36,075 --> 00:30:41,855
Um, um, and that used to be the
top, the floors were factories.

572
00:30:42,365 --> 00:30:43,614
That's where my uncle was.

573
00:30:43,675 --> 00:30:45,464
And then where Yeah.

574
00:30:45,725 --> 00:30:52,795
Palm II Grocers is that building where
now the the floor above the warehouse

575
00:30:52,825 --> 00:30:58,514
That's where like people hire out that
venue for supper clubs and do yoga that

576
00:30:58,514 --> 00:31:05,385
used to be where my parents were and
I talk about Those secret spaces now

577
00:31:05,395 --> 00:31:10,135
being, you know, these trendy places
and even me having the experience of

578
00:31:10,135 --> 00:31:16,825
going back in such an unplanned like way
and the visceral like reaction I had.

579
00:31:16,924 --> 00:31:25,125
I start the essay talking about how my
friend Lee fancied this, this girl who

580
00:31:25,145 --> 00:31:31,610
was like running supper clubs, vegan
ones and He was like, so I needed to

581
00:31:31,610 --> 00:31:37,670
be wing woman and go to one of these
Christmas pop ups that she was having.

582
00:31:37,719 --> 00:31:45,355
So this vegan Christmas meal that we went
to, which was like, It was like 7 65 quid.

583
00:31:45,415 --> 00:31:47,965
Was it like something like,
look, I didn't pay for it.

584
00:31:48,025 --> 00:31:51,715
I would not have, I think
it was something like that.

585
00:31:51,775 --> 00:31:53,505
Oh God, maybe I'm being outrageous.

586
00:31:53,510 --> 00:32:02,185
Maybe it was 45, but still, still still
45 for a flapjack with cold gravy.

587
00:32:02,605 --> 00:32:02,845
No.

588
00:32:03,145 --> 00:32:04,195
Was outrageous.

589
00:32:04,200 --> 00:32:05,155
That's what we got.

590
00:32:05,335 --> 00:32:07,105
We were told it was a nut roast.

591
00:32:07,455 --> 00:32:08,945
That's a crime against nut roast.

592
00:32:08,985 --> 00:32:10,815
I've had good nut roasts, I have.

593
00:32:11,185 --> 00:32:15,895
That was a flapjack on the plate,
and it was cold, I don't know, it

594
00:32:15,895 --> 00:32:19,885
was just nothingness, and I had
to sit there, and then obviously

595
00:32:19,885 --> 00:32:21,285
we went for a kebab afterwards.

596
00:32:22,345 --> 00:32:27,285
But um, so he was like, Mel, we're
going to this place, come meet me there

597
00:32:27,295 --> 00:32:31,395
and I hadn't, I didn't know, like I
didn't think about where exactly it was.

598
00:32:31,405 --> 00:32:36,405
So I rushed, I was running late and then
I rushed into this building and then I

599
00:32:36,414 --> 00:32:41,424
went up the stairs and it suddenly felt
so familiar and it took me back to when

600
00:32:41,424 --> 00:32:49,325
I was like six and my dad taking me
up these stairs when like after school

601
00:32:49,535 --> 00:32:54,760
suddenly through these like double doors
and we walked The supper club venue,

602
00:32:54,760 --> 00:32:59,120
but for me it was the factory where my
parents worked, and I just reconstructed

603
00:32:59,120 --> 00:33:04,830
that space, I knew where the sewing
machines were, I knew where the makeshift

604
00:33:04,830 --> 00:33:10,329
kitchen was on the left, and where the
steam irons were right at the back, and

605
00:33:10,560 --> 00:33:13,854
yeah, it was just so emotive, and yeah.

606
00:33:14,385 --> 00:33:18,665
It felt so surreal sitting there and
I think I felt even more resentful

607
00:33:18,665 --> 00:33:24,994
about having a flapjack when I knew the
incredible meals that happened in that

608
00:33:24,995 --> 00:33:28,095
space, in that secret space, you know?

609
00:33:28,365 --> 00:33:32,384
There was a cutting table in the middle
of the factory, so where all the pattern

610
00:33:32,384 --> 00:33:37,405
cutters would work and then give their
cuts to the like people on the sewing

611
00:33:37,415 --> 00:33:41,945
machines and that at lunchtime would turn
into the massive sharing dining table

612
00:33:41,955 --> 00:33:47,595
so they'd clear all the material off,
dust it off and then put a massive cloth

613
00:33:47,625 --> 00:33:52,095
which was made from all the materials
there and then everyone would share what

614
00:33:52,125 --> 00:33:57,225
they bought so like everyone had tins
and containers of different dishes from

615
00:33:57,235 --> 00:34:02,240
dinner from the night before and it would
be warmed up in the makeshift kitchen and

616
00:34:02,240 --> 00:34:06,550
then brought and then you'd create this
massive beautiful spread and someone had

617
00:34:06,550 --> 00:34:08,930
put the tea on which is like two pots.

618
00:34:09,000 --> 00:34:13,230
Turkish tea is pot of water and
the bottom pot and then tea leaves

619
00:34:13,610 --> 00:34:19,780
like soaking in the concentrate,
concentrated water brewing for you

620
00:34:19,780 --> 00:34:21,530
know an hour before you serve it.

621
00:34:21,570 --> 00:34:26,950
So you have the tea on before lunch is
ready and then just everyone gathering

622
00:34:26,950 --> 00:34:29,339
around and it was just the most magical.

623
00:34:30,160 --> 00:34:35,310
table of food that these
people who were living the most

624
00:34:35,310 --> 00:34:39,429
desperate times in their life were

625
00:34:45,590 --> 00:34:46,090
making

626
00:34:46,110 --> 00:34:46,850
Lucy: magic.

627
00:34:46,860 --> 00:34:49,400
Yeah, against all the odds.

628
00:34:50,000 --> 00:34:52,839
Melek: Yeah, the most resourceful people.

629
00:34:53,160 --> 00:35:00,460
And that's, those are the people who
made, you know, manga one and two and,

630
00:35:02,220 --> 00:35:07,029
you know, zero one, I don't know, and all
these places, like, of course they did.

631
00:35:07,615 --> 00:35:08,565
Of course they did.

632
00:35:08,585 --> 00:35:16,285
If, if they could be in these secret,
dusty warehouses where they had to

633
00:35:16,294 --> 00:35:19,494
like, cover the windows with newspapers
so no one knew they were there,

634
00:35:20,195 --> 00:35:22,514
and they could create these feasts.

635
00:35:23,615 --> 00:35:26,225
Of course they could make these
restaurants that everyone loved.

636
00:35:26,755 --> 00:35:27,135
Yeah.

637
00:35:27,225 --> 00:35:31,515
And it was just my way of going,
Oh, you think this is amazing?

638
00:35:31,555 --> 00:35:33,335
This is how amazing they are.

639
00:35:33,385 --> 00:35:35,215
This is how amazing these people are.

640
00:35:36,225 --> 00:35:38,755
Lucy: I think it's, like, you know,
hearing you talk about it now, and

641
00:35:38,994 --> 00:35:42,674
reading the essay as well, it made
me think a lot about, like, I don't

642
00:35:42,674 --> 00:35:47,115
know, maybe, like, the intentions
people have behind opening restaurants.

643
00:35:47,485 --> 00:35:48,625
Because, like, that Yeah.

644
00:35:48,905 --> 00:35:52,395
That, just, kind of, The restaurants
that the people that you're talking about

645
00:35:52,435 --> 00:35:56,485
open, that came from a place of just
wanting to feed and wanting to bring

646
00:35:56,485 --> 00:36:00,915
people together and kind of, obviously
they were doing it to make a living, but

647
00:36:00,915 --> 00:36:05,554
there was, I feel like that's different
from a lot of other restaurants.

648
00:36:06,705 --> 00:36:08,114
Maybe, I don't know.

649
00:36:08,115 --> 00:36:11,135
I don't quite know how to articulate
it, but there's something that feels

650
00:36:11,775 --> 00:36:16,355
like it's just, it's a rich part of
an incredible culture and it's wanting

651
00:36:16,355 --> 00:36:20,240
to, um, keep producing that, I guess.

652
00:36:21,140 --> 00:36:25,310
Melek: Uh, yeah, but I think that's like,
that's true of a lot of communities, a lot

653
00:36:25,520 --> 00:36:33,515
of, and, and I, I think it's so you, um,
You know, when I think of the Bangladeshi

654
00:36:33,535 --> 00:36:38,745
community in Bricklay, so what's known
as Indian food is predominantly was

655
00:36:38,745 --> 00:36:41,445
the, you know, Bangladeshi community.

656
00:36:41,544 --> 00:36:43,485
Yeah, that's a really
interesting parallel.

657
00:36:43,485 --> 00:36:44,515
Yeah, of course.

658
00:36:44,565 --> 00:36:49,655
Lucy: Yeah, it's that erasure again of
the, like, specificness of the thing,

659
00:36:49,724 --> 00:36:52,545
because people can't be bothered to

660
00:36:53,155 --> 00:36:57,515
Melek: No, it's not that people can't be
bothered, like, I think it's You know,

661
00:36:57,725 --> 00:37:03,285
to be fair, it's just that, that time
and what, um, what a community were up

662
00:37:03,285 --> 00:37:05,865
against and how they felt probably like.

663
00:37:06,385 --> 00:37:09,255
They had to kind of present themselves.

664
00:37:09,255 --> 00:37:14,575
What was easier, you know, I see in the
I mean when you go to a lot of these like

665
00:37:14,585 --> 00:37:19,355
what I say, Kurdish restaurants, but it's
hard like it is if they're presenting

666
00:37:19,355 --> 00:37:20,684
themselves as a Turkish restaurant.

667
00:37:20,874 --> 00:37:21,915
Who am I to go and go?

668
00:37:21,964 --> 00:37:26,724
Actually, sir, you're Kurdish, you
know it, you speak Kurdish, you know,

669
00:37:26,804 --> 00:37:30,474
and when I ask you where you're from,
you know, you're Kurdish, but you

670
00:37:30,474 --> 00:37:32,584
still say you're, you're Turkish.

671
00:37:32,604 --> 00:37:33,764
And who am I to?

672
00:37:34,065 --> 00:37:37,945
suddenly challenge how they
identify themselves, right?

673
00:37:38,345 --> 00:37:39,095
Um, right.

674
00:37:39,145 --> 00:37:42,834
But you know, it is really interesting
when I make, when I write these

675
00:37:42,834 --> 00:37:48,285
stories or like I do stories and
videos with aunties and communities.

676
00:37:48,355 --> 00:37:54,525
Um, like I, I did this, um, video,
uh, during the pandemic of these

677
00:37:54,525 --> 00:37:58,125
women who would get together in
their garden to make bread together.

678
00:37:58,574 --> 00:37:59,914
Um, such bread.

679
00:38:01,525 --> 00:38:06,765
And you, you, you get together cause
it's easier to make massive batches of

680
00:38:06,765 --> 00:38:09,395
this bread and, you know, for each other.

681
00:38:09,995 --> 00:38:11,095
That's like five women.

682
00:38:11,415 --> 00:38:17,485
And amongst themselves, they're, they're
speaking Kurdish, you know, and I'll

683
00:38:17,485 --> 00:38:20,905
ask them what they're saying because
they're like Roaring with laughter,

684
00:38:20,985 --> 00:38:24,465
you know, and you're watching them
and you want to be in on it and you

685
00:38:24,465 --> 00:38:25,875
go Oh, what are you talking about?

686
00:38:25,875 --> 00:38:26,824
What's what's so funny?

687
00:38:26,865 --> 00:38:31,825
You know, it's not funny in turkish and
they'll say it's not funny in turkish Like

688
00:38:31,834 --> 00:38:33,525
they'll refer to themselves as turkish.

689
00:38:33,525 --> 00:38:38,035
They'll go as turkish people and
i'm like You, like, are you not

690
00:38:38,045 --> 00:38:40,415
aware of this, like, Contradiction.

691
00:38:40,425 --> 00:38:45,585
Contradiction, this dichotomy, and
it's like, but who am I to raise that?

692
00:38:45,705 --> 00:38:48,134
Because there's so much
complexity in that.

693
00:38:48,265 --> 00:38:49,965
Lucy: And you've talked about
feeling that as well, right?

694
00:38:49,975 --> 00:38:50,855
Yeah, and I

695
00:38:50,855 --> 00:38:55,300
Melek: do, and this is what I
mean about this, This constant

696
00:38:55,310 --> 00:38:59,850
battle that I, we always have with
our identity, and that's okay.

697
00:38:59,880 --> 00:39:02,470
Why do we have to sit
comfortably with who we are?

698
00:39:03,190 --> 00:39:04,530
You know, it's not a given.

699
00:39:04,539 --> 00:39:07,190
It's not an inanimate object.

700
00:39:07,290 --> 00:39:13,799
Your sense of self is always changing
and actually to be on your tippy

701
00:39:13,799 --> 00:39:18,780
toes when it comes to self awareness,
I think isn't a bad thing, right?

702
00:39:18,835 --> 00:39:19,202
Right.

703
00:39:19,202 --> 00:39:22,055
Rather than it being too
settled and it's like.

704
00:39:23,205 --> 00:39:27,325
Lucy: I think that's really interesting,
particularly in the world that we live

705
00:39:27,325 --> 00:39:31,235
in where like, that we sort of live
in an era of like a personal brand.

706
00:39:32,205 --> 00:39:35,105
And that feels like it's something
that has to be quite fixed,

707
00:39:35,125 --> 00:39:37,145
otherwise people don't like it.

708
00:39:37,725 --> 00:39:37,904
Yeah.

709
00:39:37,904 --> 00:39:39,204
And that's really difficult, right?

710
00:39:39,235 --> 00:39:41,935
Like, for the reasons that you're
saying, like, how do you navigate?

711
00:39:42,485 --> 00:39:45,995
Like presenting yourself as a
particular thing when that's not fixed.

712
00:39:46,365 --> 00:39:52,145
Melek: No, it isn't it isn't but
it's so liberating It's so liberating

713
00:39:52,185 --> 00:39:54,544
to have no fixed sense of self

714
00:39:55,295 --> 00:39:56,125
Lucy: Yeah, yeah

715
00:39:57,455 --> 00:40:01,254
Melek: It took a long time for
me to see it as a positive thing.

716
00:40:01,655 --> 00:40:02,955
Lucy: I bet yeah Yeah,

717
00:40:03,005 --> 00:40:09,235
Melek: but it is it is and also it just
makes you feel So open, I think, and

718
00:40:09,255 --> 00:40:13,209
really loving and accepting of anyone
else and whatever they want to be.

719
00:40:14,110 --> 00:40:17,600
And that's why I can't tell
those aunties, Auntie, um, aren't

720
00:40:17,600 --> 00:40:18,920
you, I think you're Can ish?

721
00:40:20,070 --> 00:40:24,620
No, like, that's not my place.

722
00:40:25,610 --> 00:40:27,489
Auntie can be whatever she wants to be.

723
00:40:28,000 --> 00:40:28,579
You know?

724
00:40:41,520 --> 00:40:44,939
Another, like, really strong
food memory is like, my mum's

725
00:40:44,980 --> 00:40:47,090
chickpea and lamb neck stew.

726
00:40:49,530 --> 00:40:51,940
Well Or cannellini bean and lamb neck.

727
00:40:52,000 --> 00:40:57,600
So it's a really, it's one of the, like,
when in those basically old warehouses

728
00:40:57,600 --> 00:41:03,399
and community centres, one of the first
dishes that was made and sold, like in

729
00:41:03,399 --> 00:41:08,680
the community centres, was cannellini
bean with lamb neck on rice, right?

730
00:41:09,549 --> 00:41:11,010
On chickpea rice often.

731
00:41:11,560 --> 00:41:15,650
And that was such a staple, and
the Halkiv, the Kurdish community

732
00:41:15,650 --> 00:41:16,950
centre, was known for that.

733
00:41:17,660 --> 00:41:20,189
Was known for that.

734
00:41:20,240 --> 00:41:26,025
And It's just such a source of comfort
and it's so, yeah, because I just

735
00:41:26,195 --> 00:41:32,505
think of what, so basically Beyond
Retro was the Kurdish community centre.

736
00:41:32,915 --> 00:41:38,764
And it was that space where, uh,
you'd go to, for people who helped you

737
00:41:38,775 --> 00:41:42,805
with your bureaucracy, like filling
out forms, uh, you'd go if you had

738
00:41:42,805 --> 00:41:46,265
a housing issue and someone would
say, oh, there's a, there's a flat.

739
00:41:46,515 --> 00:41:49,685
You know, that you could go to
there or, and then you'd have

740
00:41:49,685 --> 00:41:51,145
like wedding celebrations there.

741
00:41:51,505 --> 00:41:57,065
You'd have like folk dancing classes and
then you had the kitchen, the canteen that

742
00:41:57,065 --> 00:41:59,875
had The cannellini beans and lamb neck.

743
00:42:00,535 --> 00:42:02,565
And then mum would make it at home.

744
00:42:03,065 --> 00:42:07,924
And the secret was, with mum's one, was
that she'd make it in a pressure cooker.

745
00:42:08,005 --> 00:42:09,045
Lucy: Mmm.

746
00:42:09,535 --> 00:42:11,585
Melek: So that made it extra special.

747
00:42:12,095 --> 00:42:17,270
And there's a thing That our
community have with pressure cookers.

748
00:42:17,320 --> 00:42:21,250
It's a big deal having every
home should have a pressure

749
00:42:21,250 --> 00:42:23,769
cooker And it's an investment.

750
00:42:23,850 --> 00:42:27,750
They're not cheap and you get a good
one and it's you have it for life

751
00:42:28,269 --> 00:42:33,620
And it's the first thing you you
get if your child's getting married.

752
00:42:33,630 --> 00:42:36,030
It's the wedding gift It's
the ultimate wedding gift.

753
00:42:36,100 --> 00:42:40,900
So like Sometimes someone claims
like an auntie will go i'm going

754
00:42:40,900 --> 00:42:41,870
to get this pressure cooker.

755
00:42:41,900 --> 00:42:44,515
They'll claim it and it's like
damn it You What am I going to get?

756
00:42:46,785 --> 00:42:52,154
So anyway, when I, back when
I was married, no one got me a

757
00:42:52,155 --> 00:42:53,285
pressure cooker straight away.

758
00:42:53,295 --> 00:42:54,324
It was so crazy.

759
00:42:54,384 --> 00:42:57,955
I think mum really wanted to take
her time to select the right one.

760
00:42:58,955 --> 00:43:05,955
Anyway, and my ex loved my mum's
cannellini britter beans and lamb, but

761
00:43:05,965 --> 00:43:10,535
she took a long time to tell, like,
so she didn't, she wouldn't tell him.

762
00:43:11,165 --> 00:43:14,425
The secret of, like, she makes
it in a pressure cooker, right?

763
00:43:15,245 --> 00:43:18,895
But she loved him dearly and
obviously this was my childhood,

764
00:43:18,895 --> 00:43:22,465
like, Sweetheart, we'd grown up
together, that he was like a son.

765
00:43:22,785 --> 00:43:26,885
And then we married and she was getting
ready, she was like, It's time to tell

766
00:43:26,885 --> 00:43:30,930
him, like, and, Because I've got to get
this pressure cooker and I've Tell him.

767
00:43:31,150 --> 00:43:32,200
That's when I'll tell him.

768
00:43:32,800 --> 00:43:37,790
And then, but four years into the marriage
and she still hadn't like, told him.

769
00:43:38,330 --> 00:43:43,349
And then this one day, um, we
went over and she had made it.

770
00:43:43,430 --> 00:43:48,789
And he was like, you know,
Auntie, I love this so much.

771
00:43:48,820 --> 00:43:53,350
And he ate it and then he,
like, he fell asleep on her lap.

772
00:43:54,000 --> 00:43:56,660
She felt so like, oh,
this is, you know, my son.

773
00:43:57,230 --> 00:44:01,190
And then we, like, so she
bought a pressure cooker.

774
00:44:01,200 --> 00:44:01,554
Uh uh.

775
00:44:01,725 --> 00:44:03,975
To give for our wedding anniversary.

776
00:44:04,985 --> 00:44:12,324
And Four days before our wedding
anniversary, we broke up, him and I.

777
00:44:12,405 --> 00:44:17,785
And it was like, I was just plucking
up the courage to tell mum and dad,

778
00:44:17,785 --> 00:44:19,694
like, that it's just over, right?

779
00:44:20,345 --> 00:44:25,465
And I'm like, trying to pull
myself together to go tell them.

780
00:44:26,124 --> 00:44:29,744
I, like, went away for two weeks
and they were like, what's up?

781
00:44:29,754 --> 00:44:32,234
Like, I've got this, you
know, like, what's going on?

782
00:44:32,234 --> 00:44:33,194
Everyone's disappeared.

783
00:44:33,714 --> 00:44:35,204
So I pulled myself together.

784
00:44:35,690 --> 00:44:39,920
And was like, finally had the strength
to go to mum and dad and go, you

785
00:44:39,920 --> 00:44:42,180
know, like, when it's, it's done.

786
00:44:42,590 --> 00:44:43,610
I'll never forget that.

787
00:44:43,620 --> 00:44:49,910
I, I sat down and dad, like, when I
told, and the minute dad heard, he was

788
00:44:49,910 --> 00:44:54,650
the, the dramatic, he took, one who got
up and started pacing up and down the

789
00:44:54,650 --> 00:44:57,230
house going, I can't believe it, what?

790
00:44:57,560 --> 00:45:01,590
And then he, like, he disappeared down
the corridor and then come back, go,

791
00:45:01,770 --> 00:45:03,230
and another thing, you know, yeah.

792
00:45:03,230 --> 00:45:04,629
And just, he was just had.

793
00:45:05,175 --> 00:45:06,625
An utter breakdown.

794
00:45:06,645 --> 00:45:11,595
And so, Mum and I were like
silent, watching him like, just

795
00:45:11,605 --> 00:45:14,234
have all these different thoughts
and these different emotions.

796
00:45:14,495 --> 00:45:17,685
One minute angry, one
minute like, devastated.

797
00:45:17,704 --> 00:45:20,635
And the next minute going,
we're gonna get through this.

798
00:45:20,675 --> 00:45:23,094
And then, and then we
just let him calm down.

799
00:45:23,135 --> 00:45:26,174
And Mum was just like
silent the whole time.

800
00:45:26,634 --> 00:45:27,394
The whole time.

801
00:45:27,394 --> 00:45:31,775
And then like kind of, half an
hour in when Dad had calmed down,

802
00:45:32,905 --> 00:45:34,104
just there was this silence.

803
00:45:34,104 --> 00:45:38,360
And then Mum said, I'm so glad I
didn't give him that pressure cooker.

804
00:45:40,850 --> 00:45:42,880
And so she's just like, she's happy.

805
00:45:42,880 --> 00:45:47,659
She's like, you didn't get the cafe,
you didn't get that, but you got

806
00:45:47,659 --> 00:45:52,070
the pressure cooker, you got the
secret to the stew, you're winning.

807
00:45:55,280 --> 00:45:56,040
Wow.

808
00:45:56,090 --> 00:45:56,660
Yeah.

809
00:45:56,910 --> 00:45:58,060
That's an important stew.

810
00:45:58,449 --> 00:46:00,770
It's a special stew and I never forget it.

811
00:46:00,800 --> 00:46:05,680
But, and I never forget like, All
the, like, all that it represents,

812
00:46:05,690 --> 00:46:09,820
you know, in our community centre
and how precious that stew is and how

813
00:46:09,820 --> 00:46:15,700
precious a pressure cooker is, you
know, and what it means and I love that.

814
00:46:22,540 --> 00:46:25,250
Okay, okay, we're ready,
we're actually ready.

815
00:46:25,530 --> 00:46:26,140
Wow,

816
00:46:26,760 --> 00:46:27,440
Lucy: sorry that took

817
00:46:27,450 --> 00:46:27,929
Melek: so long.

818
00:46:28,059 --> 00:46:29,686
Lucy: Oh my god, no, not at all.

819
00:46:29,686 --> 00:46:30,836
This looks incredible.

820
00:46:30,836 --> 00:46:34,750
We can Look at this beautiful table.

821
00:46:39,020 --> 00:46:45,450
Lecker

822
00:46:48,350 --> 00:46:51,160
is hosted and produced
by me, Lucy Dearlove.

823
00:46:52,770 --> 00:46:56,310
Thanks to Melek Adal for being
part of this episode and for making

824
00:46:56,310 --> 00:46:58,770
me such an incredible breakfast.

825
00:46:58,840 --> 00:47:01,190
If you want to see photos of
it, they'll be on the Lecker

826
00:47:01,190 --> 00:47:02,650
Instagram, at Lecker Podcast.

827
00:47:04,279 --> 00:47:09,045
The second edition of London Feeds
Itself featuring, um, Mel's essay, along

828
00:47:09,045 --> 00:47:13,575
with so much other fantastic writing
about food in London, is out now.

829
00:47:13,615 --> 00:47:16,294
You can find it online or
at a bookshop near you.

830
00:47:17,745 --> 00:47:20,525
Music in this episode
is by Blue Dot Sessions.

831
00:47:20,905 --> 00:47:25,165
And before I go, a reminder that
you can sign up as a paid subscriber

832
00:47:25,235 --> 00:47:28,805
to support Lecker on Apple
Podcasts, Patreon, and Substack.

833
00:47:29,235 --> 00:47:30,415
Links are in the show notes.

834
00:47:31,035 --> 00:47:34,135
And to any paid subscribers who
are listening here, thank you so

835
00:47:34,135 --> 00:47:35,585
much for your continued support.

836
00:47:35,625 --> 00:47:36,254
It means a lot.

837
00:47:37,325 --> 00:47:41,475
And if you're a Lecker listener that's
listened to one or more episodes

838
00:47:41,495 --> 00:47:47,534
this year and you haven't left me a
review on Apple Podcasts, even just a

839
00:47:47,535 --> 00:47:52,485
rating, then please take a couple of
minutes out of your day to do that.

840
00:47:52,565 --> 00:47:57,115
It makes a huge difference in how
people find the show and it really

841
00:47:57,115 --> 00:48:02,265
helps independent podcasters like
myself find and expand a new audience.

842
00:48:03,085 --> 00:48:04,175
Thanks so much for listening.

843
00:48:04,185 --> 00:48:04,765
I'll be back soon.

