1 00:00:08,280 --> 00:00:10,249 CLAIRE HICKINBOTHAM: Hello and welcome to the National Trust 2 00:00:10,269 --> 00:00:13,304 Podcast. I'm Claire Hickinbotham. A producer of the 3 00:00:13,324 --> 00:00:16,539 National Trust podcast and lover of the great outdoors. 4 00:00:17,408 --> 00:00:20,177 We're giving you another chance to listen to our two-part, 5 00:00:20,177 --> 00:00:23,374 Beginner's Guide to Bikepacking, as we wait for the rest of this 6 00:00:23,435 --> 00:00:25,263 season's new adventures to land. 7 00:00:25,953 --> 00:00:30,174 This is part two of the 36 mile cycle, along the North Cornish 8 00:00:30,234 --> 00:00:33,532 coast. With Jo Dyson, and bikepacking enthusiast and 9 00:00:33,553 --> 00:00:34,842 writer Katherine Moore. 10 00:00:35,617 --> 00:00:38,293 If you missed part one, You may want to catch up with that one 11 00:00:38,373 --> 00:00:41,587 first. But if you already know what they got up to then you're 12 00:00:41,607 --> 00:00:42,055 good to go. 13 00:00:47,908 --> 00:00:50,850 JO DYSON: So what is the normal morning ritual for a bikepacking 14 00:00:50,870 --> 00:00:51,051 trip? 15 00:00:51,464 --> 00:00:52,788 KATHERINE MOORE: It's a really good time for a bit of a 16 00:00:52,809 --> 00:00:55,015 briefing and see what you've got lined up for the day. 17 00:00:55,896 --> 00:00:58,349 I think it would be a good idea to just get out the maps and 18 00:00:58,389 --> 00:01:00,399 have a little look about what we're going to be doing today. 19 00:01:01,124 --> 00:01:03,695 So here we are currently in Bude and I know you're planning on 20 00:01:03,715 --> 00:01:06,850 spending tonight all the way up here over the Devon border in 21 00:01:06,871 --> 00:01:07,621 Peppercombe Bothy. 22 00:01:08,310 --> 00:01:10,654 It seems like there are a couple of national trust beaches that 23 00:01:10,654 --> 00:01:12,603 are accessible from the route that we're going to be taking. 24 00:01:13,229 --> 00:01:16,117 How about visiting Sandymouth? Which will be a detour of about 25 00:01:16,198 --> 00:01:16,886 six miles. 26 00:01:17,357 --> 00:01:18,146 JO DYSON: Sounds a plan. 27 00:01:19,044 --> 00:01:21,982 I've also arranged for us to visit Hawker's Hut, which is the 28 00:01:22,042 --> 00:01:24,261 National Trust's smallest property. 29 00:01:25,097 --> 00:01:26,751 It is looking at the map- 30 00:01:27,385 --> 00:01:28,333 Here! 31 00:01:28,333 --> 00:01:30,253 KATHERINE MOORE: So let's finish up here and get on our bikes 32 00:01:30,273 --> 00:01:30,475 again. 33 00:01:30,576 --> 00:01:32,267 JO DYSON: Can I have that final bit of toast? 34 00:01:32,471 --> 00:01:33,389 KATHERINE MOORE: Yeah, go for it. 35 00:01:37,552 --> 00:01:41,651 So we've been really lucky that the hotel here have let us store 36 00:01:41,651 --> 00:01:43,971 our bikes securely so we didn't have to lock them outside. 37 00:01:45,508 --> 00:01:49,078 JO DYSON: Oh my gosh, they're not our bikes. So where are our 38 00:01:49,098 --> 00:01:49,682 bikes? 39 00:01:50,914 --> 00:01:52,824 There's some cards! " 40 00:01:52,824 --> 00:01:56,693 Jo and Katherine number one." " 41 00:01:56,693 --> 00:01:59,297 Yesterday's hills were not for the faint-hearted." 42 00:01:59,297 --> 00:02:00,459 Yeah, that's right. " 43 00:02:00,459 --> 00:02:04,104 So we have swapped your gravel bikes for electric bikes." " 44 00:02:04,104 --> 00:02:08,802 These should make for a more comfortable and enjoyable ride." 45 00:02:08,802 --> 00:02:09,860 KATHERINE MOORE: Envelope number two. 46 00:02:10,988 --> 00:02:15,093 These Raleigh Motus e-bikes help you speed along the flat and 47 00:02:15,133 --> 00:02:17,302 flatten even the steepest of hills. 48 00:02:17,383 --> 00:02:18,246 That sounds good! 49 00:02:18,869 --> 00:02:21,548 Set your level of resistance and pedal as normal. 50 00:02:21,548 --> 00:02:25,651 Fully charged, you can expect a range of up to 76 miles. 51 00:02:26,613 --> 00:02:28,043 Let's go and see if we can figure them out. 52 00:02:31,572 --> 00:02:34,158 I think it'll be quite good fun to start in turbo so you get 53 00:02:34,398 --> 00:02:35,099 full effect, Jo. 54 00:02:36,023 --> 00:02:37,905 Ready? Let's go! 55 00:02:39,481 --> 00:02:41,011 JO DYSON: Oh my god, I can feel this! 56 00:02:42,842 --> 00:02:43,625 KATHERINE MOORE: You're motoring! 57 00:02:43,625 --> 00:02:46,799 JO DYSON: I'm not really peddling and i'm turboing on! 58 00:02:46,799 --> 00:02:47,232 KATHERINE MOORE: Whoop! 59 00:02:47,232 --> 00:02:49,824 JO DYSON: Wow! 60 00:02:49,824 --> 00:02:53,009 Katherine, this has made a huge difference. Even being on the 61 00:02:53,029 --> 00:02:56,313 flat now in eco mode, I can feel it sort of pulling me along. 62 00:02:56,494 --> 00:02:57,976 KATHERINE MOORE: Yeah, it's incredible, isn't it? 63 00:02:59,649 --> 00:03:02,586 When you see a hill like that one in front of us, you don't 64 00:03:02,849 --> 00:03:04,359 get the same sense of dread! 65 00:03:05,008 --> 00:03:07,355 JO DYSON: Oh, about to try some uphill in turbo! 66 00:03:10,341 --> 00:03:13,575 Oh wow that's amazing! 67 00:03:13,615 --> 00:03:15,764 KATHERINE MOORE: It's just so easy isn't it? It's 68 00:03:15,764 --> 00:03:16,727 mind-blowing! 69 00:03:16,727 --> 00:03:17,689 JO DYSON: Oh my gosh! 70 00:03:17,689 --> 00:03:21,097 KATHERINE MOORE: Not even sweating it's just so easy! 71 00:03:22,721 --> 00:03:26,287 JO DYSON: I'm still peddling and I'm still feeling it in my legs 72 00:03:26,287 --> 00:03:28,795 a bit, but it's just- Totally assisted. 73 00:03:30,188 --> 00:03:32,921 My gosh, this is almost dangerous trying an e-bike 74 00:03:32,942 --> 00:03:36,284 because, I'm not sure if you want to go back. Would you? 75 00:03:37,587 --> 00:03:41,238 Seriously though, for bike touring or bikepacking I mean- 76 00:03:42,144 --> 00:03:44,091 It really is a kind of win-win, isn't it? 77 00:03:44,608 --> 00:03:44,834 KATHERINE MOORE: Yeah. 78 00:03:51,420 --> 00:03:55,170 It's suddenly so sleepy isn't it compared to the hubbub of early 79 00:03:55,231 --> 00:03:59,375 morning Bude. Oh, yes, another person on an ebike! 80 00:03:59,756 --> 00:04:00,357 Morning! 81 00:04:02,200 --> 00:04:04,674 JO DYSON: I think it's the way forward in Cornwall, isn't it? 82 00:04:04,835 --> 00:04:05,579 KATHERINE MOORE: Absolutely! 83 00:04:07,745 --> 00:04:10,162 JO DYSON: Oh here we go, look, left turn to Sandymouth. 84 00:04:13,401 --> 00:04:17,818 And we're just getting down one, beautifully smooth tarmac road 85 00:04:18,269 --> 00:04:19,620 All the way to Sandymouth. 86 00:04:21,436 --> 00:04:22,482 I can see people! 87 00:04:26,177 --> 00:04:26,927 Here we are! 88 00:04:30,020 --> 00:04:33,854 So we've just wheeled our bikes down to the sign at Sandymouth. 89 00:04:34,396 --> 00:04:36,421 And look at this, make the most of Sandymouth. 90 00:04:36,421 --> 00:04:39,414 Go for a walk. Geology rocks! " 91 00:04:39,496 --> 00:04:44,378 Sandymouth is an ideal spot for exploring rock pools." I haven't 92 00:04:44,418 --> 00:04:45,791 been rock pooling since I was about- 93 00:04:46,240 --> 00:04:48,566 I don't know, eight years of age or something. 94 00:04:49,865 --> 00:04:51,355 KATHERINE MOORE: Right, so now we've got the little walk down 95 00:04:51,375 --> 00:04:54,914 to the beach. The sea looks like quite a long way down, so I 96 00:04:54,914 --> 00:04:57,059 think- we'll be going down for a little while! 97 00:05:01,889 --> 00:05:05,364 We're going down through this almost like little valley! 98 00:05:05,709 --> 00:05:06,971 JO DYSON: Like a little ravine. 99 00:05:07,801 --> 00:05:10,787 KATHERINE MOORE: Flanked by grassy banks covered in 100 00:05:10,827 --> 00:05:12,721 wildflowers, aren't they? They're gorgeous. 101 00:05:12,782 --> 00:05:13,487 JO DYSON: Beautiful. 102 00:05:15,008 --> 00:05:19,134 That sign "caution unstable cliffs." 103 00:05:19,134 --> 00:05:20,834 KATHERINE MOORE: There's water cascading off the side of it. 104 00:05:21,505 --> 00:05:23,086 That's probably all of last night's rain! 105 00:05:24,405 --> 00:05:26,655 Look at these surfers, they're having a shower in one of the 106 00:05:26,655 --> 00:05:28,423 cascades coming off the rock face! 107 00:05:29,057 --> 00:05:30,727 Getting all the sand off their boards. 108 00:05:34,657 --> 00:05:36,546 I'm sure just around this corner, we're going to have the 109 00:05:36,566 --> 00:05:38,074 grand reveal of the sea. 110 00:05:42,926 --> 00:05:44,355 There it is! 111 00:05:44,658 --> 00:05:45,267 JO DYSON: Wow. 112 00:05:50,476 --> 00:05:55,512 I can't get over what a huge, expanse of beach it is! 113 00:05:55,512 --> 00:05:56,722 KATHERINE MOORE: It's an amazing contrast, isn't it? 114 00:05:56,722 --> 00:06:00,156 These pebbles to start with. And then the sand right out by the 115 00:06:00,216 --> 00:06:04,077 sea. We've got some proper seaweed here with all the tiny 116 00:06:04,137 --> 00:06:06,973 little bubbles of air that you can pop by standing on them. 117 00:06:09,661 --> 00:06:11,942 JO DYSON: Oh, look at this rock pool over here. 118 00:06:12,372 --> 00:06:15,824 So we're standing at the base of this rock formation jutting out 119 00:06:16,005 --> 00:06:16,467 the sea. 120 00:06:16,467 --> 00:06:20,110 It's probably about three or four meters high and it's 121 00:06:20,110 --> 00:06:23,579 covered in barnacles, whelks- 122 00:06:24,546 --> 00:06:26,241 I think those people are rock. Pooling. 123 00:06:26,860 --> 00:06:27,605 Hello! 124 00:06:27,705 --> 00:06:27,906 Hello! 125 00:06:28,332 --> 00:06:30,865 We were curious to know what you might be looking at in the 126 00:06:30,925 --> 00:06:31,267 rocks. 127 00:06:31,573 --> 00:06:34,500 GENERIC: We're doing a shore search survey. So the we can 128 00:06:34,561 --> 00:06:36,931 keep track of what's thriving and what's not. 129 00:06:37,532 --> 00:06:38,837 Do you want to have a go at this? 130 00:06:39,038 --> 00:06:40,202 JO DYSON: Yep! 131 00:06:40,202 --> 00:06:45,921 KATHERINE MOORE: What's this up in the crevice up here? 132 00:06:45,921 --> 00:06:47,679 It's a little fish face! 133 00:06:47,679 --> 00:06:51,189 JO DYSON: Oh my gosh! You can see the eyes of the fish and its 134 00:06:51,229 --> 00:06:51,691 mouth! 135 00:06:51,731 --> 00:06:52,435 KATHERINE MOORE: Is it alive? 136 00:06:52,696 --> 00:06:53,896 GENERIC: It's alive. It's- 137 00:06:54,265 --> 00:06:56,420 JO DYSON: How is it alive when it's not in the water? It's in 138 00:06:56,400 --> 00:06:56,863 the rock. 139 00:06:57,388 --> 00:07:00,462 GENERIC: I think it breathes through its skin. It's called a 140 00:07:00,502 --> 00:07:03,982 Shanny. It might be a Blenny. They're all related. And they 141 00:07:04,002 --> 00:07:05,167 are very territorial. 142 00:07:05,576 --> 00:07:07,684 JO DYSON: It's really staring us out, isn't it? 143 00:07:07,906 --> 00:07:09,967 GENERIC: He's keeping his place on his rock. 144 00:07:10,880 --> 00:07:14,235 So he will swim around this rock when the tide is in. 145 00:07:14,837 --> 00:07:17,504 This will be his patch and that's his hidey hole while the 146 00:07:17,524 --> 00:07:18,170 tide's out. 147 00:07:22,472 --> 00:07:25,257 JO DYSON: What is this that looks like a sort of brown wine 148 00:07:25,337 --> 00:07:26,979 gum or a little jelly? 149 00:07:28,682 --> 00:07:33,123 GENERIC: That's a sea anemone. So this is an animal that when 150 00:07:33,123 --> 00:07:40,133 the water is in, will open up like a flower with tentacles. 151 00:07:40,133 --> 00:07:43,305 I happen to know there's one around the corner that's open in 152 00:07:43,285 --> 00:07:44,971 the sand you can have a look at it. 153 00:07:47,548 --> 00:07:50,013 There's just one there in the sand. It looks like a flower. 154 00:07:50,153 --> 00:07:51,415 He's got his arms out. 155 00:07:52,717 --> 00:07:53,341 KATHERINE MOORE: In the water. 156 00:07:53,583 --> 00:07:55,416 JO DYSON: Oh, that is the same thing, is it? 157 00:07:55,537 --> 00:07:55,799 Yeah. 158 00:07:56,041 --> 00:07:57,454 It almost looks like seaweed. 159 00:07:57,825 --> 00:07:58,944 GENERIC: It's a circle of- 160 00:07:59,208 --> 00:07:59,771 JO DYSON: Tentacles? 161 00:07:59,771 --> 00:08:02,383 GENERIC: Tentacles, yes. And they're called beadlets because 162 00:08:02,383 --> 00:08:06,238 at the base of the beadlet, they have a little blue poison sack 163 00:08:06,922 --> 00:08:08,157 which holds the sting. 164 00:08:08,481 --> 00:08:10,958 It's not powerful enough to hurt you or me. 165 00:08:11,385 --> 00:08:12,421 KATHERINE MOORE: Is that to catch prey? 166 00:08:12,768 --> 00:08:15,366 GENERIC: Yeah, so they'll eat fish and little shells and 167 00:08:15,366 --> 00:08:15,638 prawns- 168 00:08:15,638 --> 00:08:17,153 KATHERINE MOORE: That'll eat a fish?! 169 00:08:17,153 --> 00:08:17,336 GENERIC: Yeah. 170 00:08:17,478 --> 00:08:17,741 KATHERINE MOORE: Wow. 171 00:08:19,843 --> 00:08:21,158 It looks so harmless, doesn't it? 172 00:08:21,504 --> 00:08:21,855 GENERIC: Yes. 173 00:08:22,645 --> 00:08:25,930 Let me see if I can stroke it. 174 00:08:25,930 --> 00:08:27,025 Yeah, look, it's feeling me. 175 00:08:28,397 --> 00:08:30,258 And is folding his tentacles in. 176 00:08:30,763 --> 00:08:31,873 JO DYSON: What does it feel like? 177 00:08:33,130 --> 00:08:39,717 Slightly sticky. 178 00:08:39,717 --> 00:08:41,983 It's absolutely fascinating, isn't it? Because as we walk 179 00:08:42,063 --> 00:08:46,222 towards this rock face, it just looks like a big inanimate 180 00:08:46,485 --> 00:08:47,128 object. 181 00:08:47,128 --> 00:08:49,419 And as you get close and you're talking us through it, it's 182 00:08:49,479 --> 00:08:52,174 actually all alive. 183 00:08:52,659 --> 00:08:54,919 GENERIC: It's covered with living things. 184 00:08:54,919 --> 00:08:55,523 JO DYSON: Yes. 185 00:08:56,396 --> 00:08:59,738 Thank you so much. I can see you're busy, so we won't take 186 00:08:59,738 --> 00:09:01,672 any more of your time but thank you. 187 00:09:01,934 --> 00:09:03,223 GENERIC: It's been great talking to you. 188 00:09:03,384 --> 00:09:04,070 JO DYSON: Have a good day. 189 00:09:09,920 --> 00:09:11,649 KATHERINE MOORE: Okay, so our next stop is going to be 190 00:09:11,689 --> 00:09:13,639 Hawker's Hut. It's about six miles from here. 191 00:09:14,349 --> 00:09:17,568 But I think it's going to take us about an hour or so because 192 00:09:17,668 --> 00:09:19,575 remember that massive hill to get down here? 193 00:09:19,898 --> 00:09:22,080 Well, we've got to go back up it! 194 00:09:22,080 --> 00:09:24,842 JO DYSON: But don't forget we've got E-bikes now and I never 195 00:09:24,862 --> 00:09:27,573 thought I would say this but race you? 196 00:09:30,862 --> 00:09:31,532 KATHERINE MOORE: Ready? Steady? 197 00:09:31,532 --> 00:09:33,370 JO DYSON: Woohoo! I'm off! 198 00:09:44,100 --> 00:09:47,367 So we've been cycling for about 25 minutes and our surroundings 199 00:09:47,407 --> 00:09:49,226 have completely changed. 200 00:09:49,677 --> 00:09:52,760 We're in an area that feels as though we're not supposed to be 201 00:09:52,922 --> 00:09:53,705 here. 202 00:09:53,705 --> 00:09:58,877 All this sort of wire fencing and enormous satellite dishes. 203 00:09:59,249 --> 00:10:01,768 They must be the size of a couple of double decker buses 204 00:10:01,808 --> 00:10:02,354 some of them. 205 00:10:02,834 --> 00:10:05,094 KATHERINE MOORE: This place is incredibly hard to miss. 206 00:10:05,989 --> 00:10:08,766 It's actually been operational since the 60s. But it was only 207 00:10:08,766 --> 00:10:11,455 in 1982 that it was officially acknowledged. 208 00:10:12,133 --> 00:10:16,005 And only really recently, in 2001, they even had a sign put 209 00:10:16,046 --> 00:10:17,174 up explaining what it is. 210 00:10:18,961 --> 00:10:21,320 JO DYSON: GCHQ Bude. 211 00:10:21,618 --> 00:10:24,702 So this is part of the intelligence service. But why is 212 00:10:24,702 --> 00:10:25,747 it here in Cornwall? 213 00:10:26,801 --> 00:10:28,841 KATHERINE MOORE: Well for a start it's pretty remote. But 214 00:10:28,821 --> 00:10:31,051 the real reason is that it's close to where the old 215 00:10:31,091 --> 00:10:33,439 transatlantic telegraph cables used to land. 216 00:10:33,893 --> 00:10:36,549 And believe it or not, it's also the point where you can get 217 00:10:36,710 --> 00:10:39,095 aerial satellite line of sight from both the Atlantic and 218 00:10:39,738 --> 00:10:40,543 Indian Oceans. 219 00:10:41,923 --> 00:10:44,155 Each one of these satellites also has a name. 220 00:10:45,104 --> 00:10:46,891 JO DYSON: That big one over there looks a bit like a Barry. 221 00:10:47,113 --> 00:10:47,528 KATHERINE MOORE: Ha ha! 222 00:10:47,933 --> 00:10:48,615 JO DYSON: Don't you think so? 223 00:10:48,956 --> 00:10:49,959 KATHERINE MOORE: No, I don't think so. 224 00:10:52,017 --> 00:10:52,926 JO DYSON: Definitely a Barry. 225 00:10:58,744 --> 00:11:02,569 As we get closer to Hawker's Hut, the roads are getting much 226 00:11:02,730 --> 00:11:06,595 narrower and closer. We're in a real kind of tree tunnel now, 227 00:11:06,675 --> 00:11:07,076 aren't we? 228 00:11:08,208 --> 00:11:10,218 KATHERINE MOORE: I think I just saw a sign for Crosstown as 229 00:11:10,218 --> 00:11:12,307 well, so I think we're really close. 230 00:11:16,856 --> 00:11:18,884 Right, so we'll have to pause here because there's a sign 231 00:11:18,984 --> 00:11:21,920 saying no road for cars and bikes. This is where it turns 232 00:11:21,960 --> 00:11:23,086 into the coastal footpath. 233 00:11:23,448 --> 00:11:26,297 So let's leave the bikes here and we'll continue on foot to 234 00:11:26,317 --> 00:11:27,220 get down to Hawker's Hut. 235 00:11:32,124 --> 00:11:34,635 Cattle grazing? I wonder what we might find in here? 236 00:11:40,612 --> 00:11:43,477 JO DYSON: It's difficult to imagine what sort of National 237 00:11:43,537 --> 00:11:46,491 Trust property might be at the end of this path. 238 00:11:46,850 --> 00:11:49,098 KATHERINE MOORE: Yeah, it feels so remote doesn't it? 239 00:11:49,680 --> 00:11:50,626 JO DYSON: It really does. 240 00:11:52,573 --> 00:11:55,789 KATHERINE MOORE: So we've had 30% gradients. And some pretty 241 00:11:55,850 --> 00:11:58,336 tricky descents too. And now we've got the next obstacle. 242 00:11:59,381 --> 00:12:00,821 Looking straight at us. 243 00:12:01,701 --> 00:12:03,551 JO DYSON: Are we gonna walk through them or round them? 244 00:12:05,360 --> 00:12:06,885 They're not sure, are they? 245 00:12:07,965 --> 00:12:08,804 KATHERINE MOORE: Which way are you going? 246 00:12:10,521 --> 00:12:12,311 We'll be fine if we stick on this side. 247 00:12:13,745 --> 00:12:15,064 Hello lovelies! 248 00:12:16,340 --> 00:12:16,894 Alright. 249 00:12:17,733 --> 00:12:19,586 JO DYSON: They were very curious. 250 00:12:23,010 --> 00:12:28,324 All I can see ahead of me is cliffs, sea and no buildings at 251 00:12:28,365 --> 00:12:28,491 all. 252 00:12:28,956 --> 00:12:31,947 I mean, we really are nearly at the cliff edge. 253 00:12:33,221 --> 00:12:35,980 Well look, the Coastal Path is weaving to the left there with 254 00:12:36,021 --> 00:12:37,389 the yellow arrow? 255 00:12:37,389 --> 00:12:37,671 KATHERINE MOORE: Aha! 256 00:12:37,932 --> 00:12:39,159 Oh, and it says hawker's hut! 257 00:12:42,933 --> 00:12:46,469 JO DYSON: On the map, it looks like we're kind of getting close 258 00:12:46,489 --> 00:12:49,822 to the spot doesn't it? 259 00:12:49,822 --> 00:12:52,742 KATHERINE MOORE: This must be not only the National Trust's 260 00:12:52,762 --> 00:12:56,424 smallest property, but maybe The National Trust's best hidden 261 00:12:56,647 --> 00:12:57,255 property too. 262 00:13:01,318 --> 00:13:02,646 Oh! That must be it. 263 00:13:02,767 --> 00:13:04,018 JO DYSON: Hawkers Hut! 264 00:13:04,308 --> 00:13:07,727 KATHERINE MOORE: So there's just a single piece of slate, next to 265 00:13:07,707 --> 00:13:08,191 a wall? 266 00:13:09,308 --> 00:13:11,965 Through this tiny little gap in the stone wall. 267 00:13:11,965 --> 00:13:12,347 JO DYSON: Oh my god. 268 00:13:12,367 --> 00:13:14,295 KATHERINE MOORE: Down some steps. We are literally on the 269 00:13:14,316 --> 00:13:15,099 cliff edge now. 270 00:13:15,361 --> 00:13:16,378 JO DYSON: A sheer drop. 271 00:13:17,514 --> 00:13:18,381 KATHERINE MOORE: What a view! 272 00:13:19,125 --> 00:13:19,950 JO DYSON: What a view! 273 00:13:22,777 --> 00:13:24,550 Hello! You must be Jeff? 274 00:13:24,550 --> 00:13:26,452 JEFF CHERRINGTON: Hello. Welcome! 275 00:13:26,664 --> 00:13:28,313 KATHERINE MOORE: Wow, look at this! 276 00:13:28,353 --> 00:13:31,512 JEFF CHERRINGTON: This is Hawker's Hut. Smallest property 277 00:13:31,613 --> 00:13:33,143 the National Trust looks after. 278 00:13:33,324 --> 00:13:34,251 Completely wooden. 279 00:13:34,866 --> 00:13:36,772 KATHERINE MOORE: What a place! Right in the hillside. It 280 00:13:36,772 --> 00:13:38,579 reminds me of Lord of the Rings or The Hobbit. 281 00:13:38,760 --> 00:13:40,567 JEFF CHERRINGTON: The tour will be very short. 282 00:13:42,916 --> 00:13:44,620 That's that then. Thanks very much. 283 00:13:45,823 --> 00:13:46,504 KATHERINE MOORE: What a place. 284 00:13:46,705 --> 00:13:47,927 JO DYSON: Wow. May I go in? 285 00:13:48,007 --> 00:13:48,669 JEFF CHERRINGTON: Yeah, shall we? 286 00:13:49,090 --> 00:13:49,430 JO DYSON: Yeah. 287 00:13:49,551 --> 00:13:49,952 JEFF CHERRINGTON: After you. 288 00:13:50,152 --> 00:13:51,443 KATHERINE MOORE: Will all three of us fit in there? 289 00:13:52,145 --> 00:13:52,813 JEFF CHERRINGTON: With a squeeze. 290 00:13:53,582 --> 00:13:53,946 JO DYSON: Wow! 291 00:13:53,946 --> 00:13:54,858 KATHERINE MOORE: Incredible! 292 00:13:55,140 --> 00:13:57,533 JO DYSON: We're essentially in what feels like a little shed 293 00:13:57,614 --> 00:14:00,893 with a really rather beautiful wooden stable door looking 294 00:14:01,033 --> 00:14:02,542 straight out to the sea. 295 00:14:02,928 --> 00:14:06,378 I can put my arms out either side and I am touching the 296 00:14:06,418 --> 00:14:09,420 walls. And I can touch the ceiling as well when sat down. 297 00:14:09,829 --> 00:14:13,537 But all over the walls have got so many carvings. 298 00:14:13,678 --> 00:14:15,993 KATHERINE MOORE: Even the seats that we're sat on which are kind 299 00:14:16,013 --> 00:14:18,845 of half bus stop-esque and half like a church pew. 300 00:14:19,587 --> 00:14:19,708 JO DYSON: Yes. 301 00:14:19,989 --> 00:14:21,695 KATHERINE MOORE: Every single surface is covered. 302 00:14:21,937 --> 00:14:24,640 JO DYSON: Dating back to 2009. 303 00:14:24,640 --> 00:14:26,647 KATHERINE MOORE: Look this one's 1977. 304 00:14:26,788 --> 00:14:28,138 D H R H. 305 00:14:28,425 --> 00:14:30,774 JEFF CHERRINGTON: The really ornate carving is the older 306 00:14:31,326 --> 00:14:32,549 carving. 307 00:14:32,549 --> 00:14:35,375 So when you get to the more modern age, it tends to be more 308 00:14:35,455 --> 00:14:37,116 felt-tip pen, bit of a scratch. 309 00:14:37,420 --> 00:14:40,694 And the handwriting, I have to say, not as good in the modern 310 00:14:40,814 --> 00:14:41,376 times. 311 00:14:41,697 --> 00:14:43,726 JO DYSON: So what's the story behind the hut Jeff? 312 00:14:44,904 --> 00:14:47,813 JEFF CHERRINGTON: So Reverend Hawker, Robert Stephen Hawker. 313 00:14:48,345 --> 00:14:52,702 He was the vicar here in Morwenstow. The hut was his 314 00:14:53,068 --> 00:14:59,282 place away from it all. Robert Stephen Hawker, he's well known 315 00:14:59,302 --> 00:15:03,342 in the area, so anyone who comes to stay, visit, live, instantly 316 00:15:03,625 --> 00:15:05,982 you hear about Hawker because he's so eccentric. 317 00:15:06,745 --> 00:15:09,881 One of nine children, so you think busy old household. 318 00:15:11,129 --> 00:15:14,837 Just to stand out, you have to do something a bit crazy you 319 00:15:14,837 --> 00:15:16,911 know, running away from school, running away from home. 320 00:15:17,801 --> 00:15:20,615 He used to dress as a mermaid down on the beach. 321 00:15:21,372 --> 00:15:24,563 So you'd have one of those big, long wigs on he'd be wearing the 322 00:15:24,583 --> 00:15:29,042 bottom half of a mermaid outfit and strumming a guitar 323 00:15:29,345 --> 00:15:32,519 apparently just to get the eye of passers-by. 324 00:15:33,772 --> 00:15:36,664 In Victorian times, he would have certainly caught the eye of 325 00:15:36,825 --> 00:15:38,258 everybody in the area. 326 00:15:39,154 --> 00:15:42,720 It's quite strange that somebody with those eccentricities would 327 00:15:42,720 --> 00:15:43,643 go into religion. 328 00:15:46,977 --> 00:15:49,987 He was a man of the cloth. You might have thought of somebody 329 00:15:50,047 --> 00:15:51,619 in a sort of somber garb. 330 00:15:52,665 --> 00:15:54,615 But he was quite the opposite you know he'd have a bright 331 00:15:54,697 --> 00:15:58,577 purple cassock. He'd have a pink hat. Bright socks. 332 00:16:00,825 --> 00:16:05,051 He was well known for mixing with various animals. They had 333 00:16:05,214 --> 00:16:05,986 nine cats. 334 00:16:07,397 --> 00:16:08,211 A stag. 335 00:16:09,473 --> 00:16:11,949 A pig that he used to walk around the parish on the lead 336 00:16:12,009 --> 00:16:12,291 with. 337 00:16:13,422 --> 00:16:14,218 They owned a dog. 338 00:16:15,533 --> 00:16:16,718 They were part of his family. 339 00:16:21,624 --> 00:16:25,176 So he would allow them to come to church. And be part of the 340 00:16:25,196 --> 00:16:28,612 congregation. But they were all subject to the same rules and 341 00:16:28,612 --> 00:16:30,123 regulations. [ 342 00:16:30,123 --> 00:16:33,898 GENERIC: Actor] "Felix, stop that!" [ 343 00:16:33,898 --> 00:16:36,704 Actor] "Will you please leave the congregation." 344 00:16:36,704 --> 00:16:38,068 JEFF CHERRINGTON: For example, one of the cats was 345 00:16:38,149 --> 00:16:41,571 excommunicated. Because it went catching mice on a Sunday. 346 00:16:41,692 --> 00:16:43,820 So, you know, there were strong ethics in the man. [ 347 00:16:43,820 --> 00:16:49,412 GENERIC: Actor] "Now, where were we?" 348 00:16:49,412 --> 00:16:51,582 JEFF CHERRINGTON: So, yeah, certainly stood out from your 349 00:16:51,883 --> 00:16:53,470 average man in black. 350 00:16:54,173 --> 00:16:57,746 For all his eccentricities, Hawker was very compassionate. 351 00:16:58,029 --> 00:17:01,288 He was known to have deep feelings for any of his fellow 352 00:17:01,369 --> 00:17:01,631 men. 353 00:17:06,480 --> 00:17:10,745 For example, in 1842, the Caledonian ran ashore on 354 00:17:10,805 --> 00:17:12,608 Sharpnose Point in Morwenstow. 355 00:17:15,652 --> 00:17:19,035 The parishioners rescued one person and a tortoise. 356 00:17:19,803 --> 00:17:21,643 Unfortunately, everybody else perished. 357 00:17:22,124 --> 00:17:25,936 At that time, shipwreck sailors were put where they lay dead. 358 00:17:26,705 --> 00:17:29,543 Either they went out to sea or they were buried on the beach. 359 00:17:30,968 --> 00:17:33,579 But Hawker had the bodies brought back to the church and 360 00:17:33,599 --> 00:17:34,723 gave them a Christian burial. 361 00:17:35,993 --> 00:17:39,478 Hawker was known for looking out for Sailors lost from 362 00:17:39,478 --> 00:17:39,987 shipwrecks. 363 00:17:40,028 --> 00:17:44,459 There was the Caledonia. Couple years before was the Alonso. 364 00:17:47,841 --> 00:17:51,168 When the timbers came ashore from that one. He had them 365 00:17:51,249 --> 00:17:54,071 brought up to the top and made Hawker's Hut from them. 366 00:17:55,404 --> 00:17:58,312 If you go there now, you can see that those timbers are still 367 00:17:58,709 --> 00:18:00,059 obvious ships timbers. 368 00:18:00,662 --> 00:18:04,442 Large ships nails that had been bashed into the side to hold 369 00:18:04,482 --> 00:18:05,991 them in the shape of a hut. 370 00:18:06,457 --> 00:18:08,378 And he made that his refuge really. 371 00:18:08,985 --> 00:18:10,800 So he would walk out to the hut. 372 00:18:13,121 --> 00:18:15,480 Smoke his bit of opium in his clay pipe. 373 00:18:15,970 --> 00:18:16,891 And write poetry. 374 00:18:18,212 --> 00:18:21,654 The hut faces due west, so every night he could have gone there 375 00:18:21,654 --> 00:18:23,831 and watched the sunset over the Atlantic. 376 00:18:25,668 --> 00:18:28,079 And perhaps that was his place where he went for a bit of 377 00:18:28,120 --> 00:18:29,847 solitude to get away from everyone. 378 00:18:37,041 --> 00:18:40,008 JO DYSON: Some of these stories Jeff, sound so far-fetched. I 379 00:18:40,008 --> 00:18:42,976 just wonder how many have evolved over the years. 380 00:18:43,136 --> 00:18:45,703 JEFF CHERRINGTON: Some of those things were recorded, so maybe 381 00:18:45,763 --> 00:18:48,775 they've just been embellished slightly more since. 382 00:18:49,177 --> 00:18:51,871 JO DYSON: Jeff, we could sit here talking to you all day. 383 00:18:52,116 --> 00:18:55,581 But Katherine's lined up 15 miles for us to do from here. So 384 00:18:55,621 --> 00:18:57,944 I think we might have to tear ourselves away. 385 00:18:58,634 --> 00:19:00,505 JEFF CHERRINGTON: Oh, well. Look. Have a really good trip 386 00:19:00,585 --> 00:19:02,169 going forward. Thank you very much. 387 00:19:02,557 --> 00:19:03,992 JO DYSON: Thank you. I think it's going to be hilly. 388 00:19:04,436 --> 00:19:07,566 JEFF CHERRINGTON: Yeah, the thigh burners of North Cornwall. 389 00:19:07,566 --> 00:19:08,529 JO DYSON: Yeah, is that what it's called? 390 00:19:08,589 --> 00:19:09,251 JEFF CHERRINGTON: Yeah. 391 00:19:16,260 --> 00:19:20,375 JO DYSON: Hawker's Hut is such a contrast to so many of the other 392 00:19:20,415 --> 00:19:22,386 properties that the National Trust looks after. 393 00:19:22,980 --> 00:19:27,006 I mean, even though it sort of resembles a small shed. 394 00:19:27,389 --> 00:19:31,342 You know, the stories we heard about it are on par with some of 395 00:19:31,322 --> 00:19:34,863 the most celebrated big country parks the National Trust looks 396 00:19:34,923 --> 00:19:35,064 after. 397 00:19:35,945 --> 00:19:37,532 KATHERINE MOORE: Yeah, I absolutely love it, even though 398 00:19:37,532 --> 00:19:38,979 it's teeny, teeny tiny. 399 00:19:46,872 --> 00:19:50,283 JO DYSON: Katherine, we left our electric bikes here, but now the 400 00:19:50,323 --> 00:19:51,942 two bikes from yesterday are here. 401 00:19:52,124 --> 00:19:52,325 KATHERINE MOORE: Oh, okay. 402 00:19:52,325 --> 00:19:55,902 JO DYSON: So it's four bikes. And a card. " 403 00:19:55,902 --> 00:19:59,509 Jo and Katherine, number three." " 404 00:19:59,509 --> 00:20:02,321 Now that you have experienced long distance cycling on 405 00:20:02,341 --> 00:20:06,309 traditional gravel bikes and an electrically assisted bike you 406 00:20:06,369 --> 00:20:09,784 now have the choice to choose which bikes you will use to 407 00:20:09,824 --> 00:20:11,666 continue your journey." 408 00:20:12,022 --> 00:20:12,407 Oh! 409 00:20:14,212 --> 00:20:16,107 I think I might choose the electric. 410 00:20:16,488 --> 00:20:18,795 KATHERINE MOORE: Yeah, I mean, they are so convincing once 411 00:20:18,795 --> 00:20:21,427 you've been up some of these really steep Cornish hills. 412 00:20:22,008 --> 00:20:25,292 Thankfully, I've got a little bit less to go, so I might go 413 00:20:25,432 --> 00:20:26,639 for my gravel bike. 414 00:20:28,012 --> 00:20:32,047 Right then, Jo. I hate goodbyes, but I've got a crack on. Have a 415 00:20:32,067 --> 00:20:33,231 fantastic rest of your trip. 416 00:20:33,432 --> 00:20:35,771 And thank you so much for brilliant last two days. It's 417 00:20:35,813 --> 00:20:36,790 been a blast. 418 00:20:36,971 --> 00:20:39,099 JO DYSON: It really has been fun, but thank you. 419 00:20:39,239 --> 00:20:41,294 Thanks for choosing such a brilliant route. 420 00:20:41,478 --> 00:20:42,544 KATHERINE MOORE: Brilliant. Enjoy. 421 00:20:42,544 --> 00:20:42,685 JO DYSON: Cycle safe, bye. 422 00:20:43,048 --> 00:20:43,792 KATHERINE MOORE: Bye. 423 00:20:46,516 --> 00:20:49,305 JO DYSON: Often at the National Trust, we talk about how The 424 00:20:49,305 --> 00:20:52,103 National Trust looks after every one in 10 miles of British 425 00:20:52,143 --> 00:20:52,747 coastline. 426 00:20:53,181 --> 00:20:57,539 But actually, it's only when you're out here in the landscape 427 00:20:57,700 --> 00:21:00,231 that you realize what an undertaking that is. 428 00:21:00,601 --> 00:21:05,109 These really, really special places that are then here for us 429 00:21:05,921 --> 00:21:07,902 all to experience and enjoy. 430 00:21:09,816 --> 00:21:13,215 So the next and final stop for me is the Peppercombe Bothy. 431 00:21:13,653 --> 00:21:15,551 Also looked after by the National Trust. 432 00:21:15,772 --> 00:21:19,422 So turbo mode engaged. And off I go! 433 00:21:30,416 --> 00:21:32,309 CLAIRE HICKINBOTHAM: We hope you enjoyed this episode of the 434 00:21:32,350 --> 00:21:35,469 National Trust Podcast. Brought to you in association with 435 00:21:35,569 --> 00:21:35,871 Raleigh. 436 00:21:36,769 --> 00:21:40,023 We'll be back with new episodes at the beginning of September 437 00:21:40,244 --> 00:21:43,760 when we'll be bringing you a new two-parter, this time exploring 438 00:21:43,821 --> 00:21:44,563 Northern Ireland. 439 00:21:45,116 --> 00:21:48,417 To make sure you get episodes of the National Trust Podcast, you 440 00:21:48,417 --> 00:21:51,775 can follow or subscribe wherever you get your podcast.