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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Hello, happy
new year and welcome to the

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National Trust Podcast. I'm
Michelle Douglass. Before we get

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on with the story, I quickly
wanted to share with you that in

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March this year, the National
Trust Podcast will be changing

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so we can bring you more
immersive tales in nature,

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history and adventure.

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This strand will become our
nature podcast, The Wild World

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Of... And look out for our new
history podcast, Back When.

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Remember to follow either show
in your favourite podcast app to

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be the first to hear new stories
when they arrive.

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Now, on with today's podcast. In
this favourite episode, we're

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travelling to Blakeney Point on
England's east coast to discover

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how this seemingly inhospitable
shingle spit is home to one of

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the UK's biggest and fluffiest
natural phenomena every winter.

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We'll be following Blakeney
Nature Reserve through every

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season to uncover the spectacles
and secrets of life on this

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rugged landscape.

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Be prepared, this is nature at
its fullest, so at times things

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get a little bit gritty.

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Every year in deepest darkest
winter, this flat, unassuming

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pebble shoreline becomes the
stage for one of the UK's

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greatest shows. Visitors peer
from ferries to catch a glimpse

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of the scene, phones held high
and cameras clicking to capture

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the action unfolding on the
beach. The coastline is packed

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with around 4,000 plump,
white-coated, impossibly fluffy

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seal pups.

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It's grey seal pupping season
and Blakeney Point in Norfolk is

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one of the world's most
important sites for the

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charismatic marine mammals.

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But what most people don't get
to see is the story behind this

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spectacle each winter.

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Blakeney National Nature Reserve
is not only part of a designated

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Area of Outstanding Natural
Beauty, but a remarkable

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conservation success story. And
the best way to discover what

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makes this place so unique is to
journey through a year on this

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remote stretch of coast through
the eyes of the people who look

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after, work and even live out
here through the changing

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seasons.

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This story really starts on a
cold February day. I'm in a Land

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Rover with Ranger Duncan Halpin,
and I'm feeling a little nervous

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about the essential but grisly
job we're here to do.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: We're driving
along Blakeney Point. There's

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about three miles of shingle
stretching out in front of us.

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Salt marsh gleaming an almost
golden colour in the low

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sunlight. And then the North
Sea, which is looking almost

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temptingly blue.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Duncan pulls
up the Land Rover and attaches a

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trailer to the back. We're met
by a hardy band of rangers and

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volunteers here to help with the
task. The kit we'll need for the

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job is handed around the group.
It's pretty basic. A pair of

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gloves and some thick black bin
liners. Then we set off.

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We've come a little bit back,
past the dunes to the marshes.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: There's a great
example of why we're doing it

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just up here.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: The annual
seal carcass clear-up is vital

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conservation work here at
Blakeney. Sadly, not all the

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seal pups born during pupping
season will make it beyond the

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first few crucial weeks of life.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: A very ripe
carcass in front of us, let's

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say, and you can actually see
all the little rat prints coming

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down from the burrow and then
round the carcass. So the rats

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in that burrow have just been
feeding on this carcass, so

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they'll just be able to
multiply.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: If the
carcasses were left here, they'd

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provide food for the rat
population to grow. And too many

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rats could threaten the huge
colony of terns that in a few

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months will also use Blakeney as
their breeding grounds, since

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rats will eat bird eggs and even
chicks. So this grim task of

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removing the seal carcasses is
actually clearing the way for

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new wildlife to thrive here.

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They've got a good chance of
survival, but sadly this one

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didn't quite make it.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: Yeah, absolutely.
Part and parcel of the of nature

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if you like. During the popping
the mortality here runs at

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something like five percent
which is quite low really.

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Places I've worked in the past
like the Farne Islands, some

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years the mortality for pups
there can be up to 40 percent.

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Majority here will go on to live
happy, healthy seal lives.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Blakeney
Point's abundance of space and

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food makes it a palatial and
popular pupping site. Grey seals

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spend most of their lives at sea
but during breeding season they

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come ashore for a dramatic and
intense life cycle played out in

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a few short weeks, as Dr Debbie
Russell, deputy director of the

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Sea Mammal Research Unit at St
Andrews University, explains.

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DEBBIE RUSSELL: Grey seals, they
pup in autumn and winter. The

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females give birth to a single
white-coated pup. We call it

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lanugo, the coat. The females
lose over a third of their body

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weight, giving the pup the milk.
So after weaning, the females

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come into oestrus, which means
they're ready to mate with a

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male.

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Male seals, which we call bulls,
have a group of females that

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they will try and mate with.
There may be kind of one big

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male, one beach master that
tries to basically control the

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access to any of these females.
You can often identify the kind

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of older males by the scars that
they have. The pups are left on

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the colony alone.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: First seal
down and starting to push any

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squeamishness aside, I team up
with a fellow newbie to scour

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the beach for more carcasses.

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SUE GREGORY: Hello, my name's
Sue. I'm a volunteer. I'm really

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interested in seals, so to be
able to come out, actually be

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with like-minded people who also
love seals, and be able to talk

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seals is really, really good.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: In fact, if
you're a seal superfan like Sue,

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the clear-up even offers an
intriguing lesson in anatomy.

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SUE GREGORY: Oh here's my first
dead seal, there's not much of

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it left and there's some nice
bones. Is that the scapula? The

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shoulder bone, that's the
humerus, so that's the long

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upper arm bone.

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Oh dear it's smelly. There we
are.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: The team
spends the next few hours

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spreading out and sweeping the
beach.

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Found another one.

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The clear up is physically hard
work. Picking up carcasses and

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heaving the heavy bags over the
sand dunes to the trailer. And

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then doing it all again and
again until finally Operation

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Seal Clear-Ups complete.

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CHRIS BIELBY: Pretty much the
last of a grizzly hole.

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Shattered now. I'm Chris Bielby,
I'm the Countryside Manager for

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the Norfolk Coast and Broads.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: And now what
happens?

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CHRIS BIELBY: So they will be
taken back to our yard at Friary

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Farm in Blakeney, and we have a
specialist contractor who's

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brought a skip, and they will
then go in the skip with a

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special lid put on top, and then
they will take them away and

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dispose of them suitably.

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You'd think that doing this job,
the atmosphere would be really

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sombre, but actually everybody's
been fairly upbeat. When the

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tern colony arises, it'll be so
important. Really pleased to get

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that done.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: After the
beach clean-up, Blakeney Point

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stays relatively quiet for the
rest of winter. Then, as the

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freezing weather melts away in
the sunshine, this coastal and

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salt marsh habitat bursts into
life. Spring has arrived, and

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rangers and volunteers begin to
prepare for the next big natural

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spectacle of the year. But
before things get busy, there's

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still time for the Blakeney team
to enjoy the season at a more

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relaxed pace.

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If you're an inlander... At this
time of year you might get out

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and about hiking or biking to
see the natural world in full

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bloom. But if you live along the
North Norfolk coast like

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National Trust volunteer Sue
Gregory, you might prefer to

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take a different mode of
transport altogether for a

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nature safari with a unique
perspective.

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SUE GREGORY: This morning I'm
going to record some of the

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sounds and describe some of the
sights as I go kayaking in the

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harbour at Blakeney.

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It's middle of May. It's just
such a lovely morning.

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Coming north, I can see the old
lifeboat house on Blakeney

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Point, that iconic blue
building. We have the entrance

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to the Clyde Channel, and then
just looking round, the East

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hills and the pines.

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I've now just kayaked across to
the Blakeney Point, and I'm just

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sitting very quietly over some
marsh which is flooded and I'm

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now starting to see birds.

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I've just had a flock of oyster
catchers fly over the top of me.

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There were a couple of gulls
that were obviously stalking

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their nests. And they've just
seen them off.

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Other birds I've heard were a
curlew, and this is an area

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where it's quite good to see
spoonbills.

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Just had a little tern go right
in beside me and pull out a

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little sand eel, and it's still
managing to squeak with its food

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in its beak. It's just so nice
to sit and float. But I'll have

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to put in some effort and then
I'll go home for breakfast.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Over the next
few months, the number of

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ground-nesting migrant seabirds,
terns, arriving at this globally

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important site to breed, keeps
growing.

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It's summer on Blakeney Point.
And by now, from shoreline to

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dune, this baby boom beach is a
frenzy of noisy, feisty families

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of the feathered variety. All
this action on the beach

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requires 24-hour conservation
care, such as patrols to keep

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away predators, population
counts and informing the public.

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So Ranger Duncan Halpin leaves
all his home comforts to head

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off-grid, moving into an old,
blue, corrugated metal lifeboat

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house where he and two assistant
rangers spend eight months of

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the year hanging out with some
very rowdy neighbours.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: My favourite part
of the job is probably living on

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the Point over summer, being
literally stuck amongst the

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wildlife. That's an incredibly
rewarding experience. Summer on

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the Point is an amazing time.
There's again huge

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concentrations of life and a
riot of noise.

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We have up to three, four
thousand sandwich terns nesting.

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They have a really, really
distinctive call which it really

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is the sound of summer on this
bit of coastline.

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Little terns are one of the UK's
rarest seabirds. They're the

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smallest tern in the UK and they
make this almost squeaky, I

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think it's a bit like a squeaky
dog toy, call as they fly over.

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We do get the occasional Arctic
Tern. The Arctic Tern has the

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longest known migration of any
animal. At the northern reaches

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of their limit, they will
effectively fly Pole to Pole

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every single year.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Other sights
of summer at Blakeney include an

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abundance of colourful coastal
butterflies. And splash in the

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right puddle on an evening and
you might see the sea spa with

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blue bioluminescence.

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As the long days of summer draw
to an end, the landscape changes

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again. The thousands of terns
take off from their breeding

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grounds to head to warmer
climes, forming part of the

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great late summer migration in
UK skies.

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As colder weather creeps into
the freshwater marshes, eels

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begin their epic and mysterious
4,000 mile migration back to the

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Sargasso Sea, where they breed a
single time before they die. And

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rangers have migrated from the
remote lifeboat house to the

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familiar comforts of the
Blakeney ranger hut. Autumn is

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here, and the coastline flaunts
a seasonal look all of its own.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: There are
definitely seasons on the Point,

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but they're different to, well,
what I call the mainland.

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There's no trees, you know,
turning into autumn colours. The

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greens on the salt marsh from
plants like samphire and sea

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purslane and shrubby sea blight,
they all start to change in late

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summer into the traditional
autumn colours the oranges the

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bronzy colours and the salt
marsh just takes on a completely

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different hue, which when the
light's shining on it just has

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this golden edge to it. There's
a nervous anticipation in late

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October waiting for the first
seal pup.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: It's winter,
mid-December. The UK's in the

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grip of a deep freeze. But the
icy expanse of coastline and low

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winter sun in Norfolk's big open
skies look beautiful. And I'm

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just arriving at the Blakeney
ranger hut for an event I've

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been looking forward to
witnessing for myself all year.

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Duncan, hello. Lovely to see you
again.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: Hello there. Last
time you were here, we were

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doing the seal clear up, but
let's go see the spectacle.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: We've just
got out the jeep. As we've been

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approaching today, at first it
was little velvety heads of

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seals popping up from the waves
and then the further that we got

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towards the colonies it was
these huge bulls.

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And then we started seeing the
babies, little white furs with

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their huge eyes. And now we've
reached a denser part of the

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colony and we're going to look
at how Duncan conserves and tags

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these seals to help them and to
help the spectacle keep

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happening every year.

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What's going on now, Duncan?

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DUNCAN HALPIN: What we're going
to do is we're going to try and

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spray some pups with some marker
spray. It'll come out when they

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moult, but it'll allow us to
track that pup up to when it

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does start to moult. We're
trying to get good data for the

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Sea Mammal Research Unit.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: The rangers
on the ground work like spraying

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the pups with paint to identify
them, all feeds into a big study

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monitoring the health of the UK
seal population, as Dr Debbie

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Russell from the Sea Mammal
Research Unit explains.

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DEBBIE RUSSELL: Blakeney
actually used to be a very small

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colony. 20 years ago, there was
less than 100 grey seal pups

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born at Blakeney. And now it's
likely there's about 5,000 pups

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born at Blakeney.

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It used to be that the number of
seals that were born was

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estimated through ground counts,
but the size of the colony

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essentially prohibits that. So
our work now is to do so by

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aerial survey. There's an
aeroplane with the hole in the

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floor where there's two cameras.

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And as they go over the colony,
they're taking multiple pictures

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and we stitch them together and
count the pups that are on them.

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Grey seals have historically
been hunted at very high levels.

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There has also been times where
gray seals have been culled as a

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result of potential interactions
with fisheries.

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So there was a much reduced
population, which is now kind of

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recovering and potentially
expanding beyond what it would

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have been. So the UK probably
has about 36% of the world's

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grey seal population. And in
Europe, the UK has the vast

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majority of grey seals. So it
really is an incredibly

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important area for grey seals.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Going up and
tagging pups on the bottom isn't

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the easiest conservation task.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: It's a difficult
job to get close to the pups,

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the mums are very defensive and
then you add in the bulls that

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are on the beach. It's all about
having a look, seeing what the

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situation is and then getting it
done as quickly as possible to

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avoid disturbance and avoid the
possibility of getting bitten as

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well.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: So what kit
do we have to do this

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conservation work?

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DUNCAN HALPIN: We've got a bag
of marker spray here and a

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healthy can-do attitude.

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Going to mark this pot with a
blue and yellow Mark. Hopefully

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it doesn't run away.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Almost
ballet-like, Duncan quickly nips

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in and out to spray the babies,
but the super protective mums

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move surprisingly quickly, their
24 stone or 155 kilogram bulks

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lunging towards the imposter,
teeth bared.

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After Duncan's done this
delicate dance about a dozen

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more times, enough pups have
been tagged for the day.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: It's not a
disturbance-free procedure, but

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the study zone's a very small
part of the colony, so the

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benefits sort of outweigh the
negatives. We've managed to

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spray a few seals, so we can go
away and leave them in peace

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now.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: I've just
left Duncan and I'm off to meet

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two of the volunteers who've
been looking after Blakeney for

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the whole year. Looking beyond
the seals, I can see two figures

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and that must be Hanne and Sue.
Hi! Hello!

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HANNE SIEBERS: Hello, Michelle!

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: How does it
feel being back here?

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00:18:33,337 --> 00:18:36,778
SUE GREGORY: Oh, it's absolutely
fantastic. The seal colony, in

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my opinion, has expanded this
year. I'm not quite sure whether

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we're at the peak at the moment,
but I suspect we may be.

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HANNE SIEBERS: Hello, I'm Hanne
Siebers. I've been volunteering

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with the National Trust for five
years. I go out here as often as

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I can. I find it uplifting,
healing, and I have absolutely

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no need for going away on
holiday. Best of all, I am

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National Trust property
photographer.

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MICHELLE DOUGLASS: So can you
give us some of your top tips?

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00:19:11,084 --> 00:19:15,446
HANNE SIEBERS: If you want to
photograph seals, you have the

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00:19:15,546 --> 00:19:21,472
rules like for any wildlife.
Nature comes first. It is, of

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00:19:21,572 --> 00:19:25,515
course, different because I am
privileged. I am right in the

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00:19:25,575 --> 00:19:30,258
middle of the rookery with a
long lens. I can zoom in.

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00:19:32,159 --> 00:19:38,822
I try to capture a seal not
looking directly into my lens.

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We have now two pups here. They
have just been sprayed, one

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yellow, one gold, with a bull.
Guarding his territory and the

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00:19:50,830 --> 00:19:56,834
cow next to the pups. I have a
nice backdrop with the roaring

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sea. I get down on my knees to
be on the same level as the

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seals.

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00:20:06,300 --> 00:20:11,962
I use my long lens and a wide
aperture. I get that shot now.

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And this is really Blakeney
Point for me.

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00:20:18,423 --> 00:20:21,604
MICHELLE DOUGLASS: A beautiful
but freezing day on Blakeney

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00:20:21,684 --> 00:20:23,925
Point. Might be time to head
back for a cup of tea now.

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00:20:28,606 --> 00:20:32,187
When we started with the clear
up at the start of the year, it

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00:20:32,207 --> 00:20:35,709
was a little bit sad, a little
bit gritty. But coming back and

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00:20:35,809 --> 00:20:40,993
seeing just as far as the eye
can see, fat, healthy, gorgeous

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00:20:41,073 --> 00:20:44,615
seals, doing their thing,
expanding their colony, it just

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goes to show what conservation
can do somewhere like Blakeney.

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DUNCAN HALPIN: It's a real
success story here. Seeing so

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many seals and the numbers going
up year on year, it's a great

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00:20:53,942 --> 00:20:57,645
reward for the work we do.
Having such a massive

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concentration of life in what is
quite a small space is just

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astounding.

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00:21:11,556 --> 00:21:13,738
MICHELLE DOUGLASS: Thanks for
listening to this episode of the

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00:21:13,818 --> 00:21:17,440
National Trust Podcast. I hope
you've been inspired by this

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00:21:17,520 --> 00:21:21,043
programme. And please remember
to follow our guidelines for the

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00:21:21,123 --> 00:21:25,526
best and safest ways to enjoy
the seals and other wildlife at

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00:21:25,546 --> 00:21:29,468
Blakeney Point, including how to
responsibly photograph seals.

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00:21:30,189 --> 00:21:33,631
For more information, follow the
links in this episode's show

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00:21:33,691 --> 00:21:37,534
notes. And don't forget to
follow and review us on your

334
00:21:37,614 --> 00:21:43,919
favourite podcast app or head to
nationaltrust.org.uk/podcasts to

335
00:21:43,979 --> 00:21:48,683
browse our full back catalogue.
Until next time, goodbye.

