Welcome to the Roy Matlock Jr. Money and
Business Hour.
Reach Roy at 615-843-2999 or visit
RoyMatlockJr.com.
And now, here's Roy.
Alright, Roy Matlock Jr. here and we are
once again talking money and how to accumulate
it and keep it and avoid the mistakes.
If you tuned in last week, I did
the show on the defense and the defense
is preparing yourself, avoiding mistakes, preparing yourself to
not lose, protecting your income, your assets, things
like that.
And then today, what I'm going to do
is we're going to go on the offense,
which is wealth accumulation.
And so, last week was everything from the
budget to emergency funds to avoiding bad debt,
getting the right insurance to protect your income,
your assets, things like that, defensive positions.
And I believe the defense is a big
part of it.
We want to not dig ourself in a
hole to start our life or at any
time because you don't want to spend the
next, make a few mistakes and then have
to dig out of it for a long
period of time.
And so, what we're doing today is we're
going to make the assumption that you've got
your defense in place and now we're going
to go on the offense and the offense
is going to be asset allocation and investment
advice and things like that, tax advice.
And so, if you would like to do
a phone call with one of our advisors,
you can call 615-843-2999.
It starts with a quick 15 minute kind
of 15 to 20 minute intro call to
see if we're a fix or a fit
for you.
And then, or you can visit RoyMatlockJr.com.
So, let's get started.
I want to start with the debt side.
And one of the things that you can
do when it comes to using debt and
credit, you can do that in a positive
way.
And if you do it in a positive
way, it allows you to grow.
And so, what is the difference in bad
debt and good debt?
Simple bad debt is you can't afford it.
You've stretched yourself.
Number two, it's tied to something that goes
down in value.
All right.
So, cars, credit cards, things like that.
So, we're going to make the assumption now
that you've got your credit in place and
you are doing something that, you know, long
term, I always look at, can I easily
take on the obligation?
And is it going to leverage me to
a better position?
So, good debt is considered an investment in
your future, helping you increase your wealth, improve
your quality of life, gain assets to appreciate
over time.
So, let's think about this.
A mortgage, you know, for the most part,
if you borrow correctly and you have a
mortgage that you can afford over a period
of time, what's going to happen is you're
going to have a house that appreciates and
it's a place to live.
And as a result of that, you at
some point in time will accumulate equity, either
through appreciation or paying it down, and it's
easily affordable.
So, that's an example of good debt.
All right.
Now, what would be a mortgage that is
bad debt?
Well, number one, you stretch yourself to where,
you know, you're living on boxes and cardboard
boxes are your furniture and you are stretched.
And if anything ever happened to your current
income because you didn't have an emergency fund
or anything like that, you get foreclosed.
That's bad debt.
All right.
So, we want to always look at it
that way.
Student loans.
You know, if you can go to a
college or a trade school, whatever it may
be, and you borrow money in order to
get an additional degree that will allow you
to get a return on investment.
My daughter went and, you know, I paid
for her college.
She went and got her master's degree and
the rates were so low, it was better
to borrow the money to get her master's.
And it ends up becoming a good investment.
If you can go spend a few hundred
dollars a month on a student loan and
it leads to you making an extra 15
or $20,000 a year because you have
a master's degree, that's good debt.
Business loans fall into the good debt.
Again, you've got to be able to easily
pay for it.
But if you can buy a piece of
equipment and it ends up, you know, making
you money, that could be an example, allow
you to grow your business, expand your business,
do things like that.
You know, things of that nature, home equity
lines of credit or opportunity money.
If you've bought houses in the last 10
years, especially in this area, chances are you've
got some equity, it's low interest finance to
own your house.
Maybe you've got a 3% loan that
you don't want to pay off.
I would never do that.
And so you want to maintain that just
paying your payment.
But then you say, wow, I've got all
this equity tied up.
Why wouldn't you get an equity line of
credit?
I tell people to do that for two
reasons.
One is to do it as a big
emergency fund.
So that means if you had something and
you know, the banks will loan you money
when you don't need it, when you need
it, they don't loan you money.
And so you go get you an equity
line of credit and you don't use it.
So let's say you've got a house, it's
worth 600 and you owe 200 on it.
They'll, you generally, if your income is, will
support it, they'll probably loan you up to
75, 80% of your value.
So if you owe 200 and your house
is worth 600, you've probably got close to
$300,000 in available credit, set it up.
And then that way, if an opportunity comes
along, you can do something.
I mean, if I came to you right
now and I said, Hey, I got something,
you give me 50 grand, I'll turn around
and give you a hundred back.
And you don't have the 50 grand, then
that's called opportunity cost.
You didn't have the money.
So if you had an equity line of
credit, so that's good debt examples.
I want to start it with that because,
you know, we came off of last week,
the bad, you know, the, the defense, what
I would look at is if you want
to really start from A to Z on
the plan, go to Roy, not like junior
.com and take a look at last week's
podcast.
Everything is there where you can find it
on any of your, your podcast, a Spotify,
all that stuff.
It's, uh, under the Roy Matlack junior money
and business hours.
So now what we've done is we've put
together a plan to get started.
And when, when I look with P when
I meet with people, my goal is, is
to get people educated, give them good advice.
We then create a defense to keep them
from losing, protect income and assets.
And we go on an offense and the
offense is to grow wealth and things like
that.
Then what we would then do is go
into the product marketplace.
And in the case with me, I'm a
fiduciary.
And so I have access to every investment
product and pretty much the same holds true
when it comes to insurance and things like
that.
And then we would go out and we'd
match up, you know, the products to, to
your, you know, stage in life.
If you're younger, you'll probably more aggressive.
If you're older, probably less aggressive and so
on.
And then we start looking at ways to
free up money to save to where we
can go out and start, you know, automating
our investment plan and our financial independence or
financial independence number.
It's easy.
We come up with our number and I
can show you that.
And then once we do that, we go
and put together an automated plan to do
it.
Visit Roy Matlock jr.com.
If you'd like to schedule a free review,
we'll be right back.
All right.
We're back a segment to Roy Matlock jr.
here, and we are going through the offense,
which is growing wealth.
And, you know, it's kind of, we're going
to get into a lot of stuff as
it relates to advice, as it relates to
your investments and tax savings and things like
that.
But I wanted to bring this up.
If you've ever thought, if you, if you're
listening to the show and you're a connected
person and you might be thinking about money
more than the average person, would you ever
consider becoming a financial advisor?
Because we train people to do that.
And at RMJ advisors, we're building the next
generation of financial professionals and we provide full
training, licensing support, you know, mentorship, all of
it.
You can do straight, straight from home.
So if you're driven, maybe you're a business
owner, you're real estate agent or mortgage person,
or you're just in sales or you just
are great with people.
You should go to Roy Matlock jr.
and click the button, become an advisor.
We have a short video that will outline
a little bit about what we do.
So think about that, or you can call
615-843-2999 to find out more details
on that.
So what we're doing right now is we're
going through the offense.
We just finished up in the previous segment,
how you use debt to benefit yourself.
All debt is not bad.
Borrowing money to make money as long as
you can afford it is good.
So we talked about that.
Now I'm going to get into some typical
investment advice that, that kind of build my
whole practice around.
The first one is we determine risk tolerance.
Now determining risk tolerance is when I meet
with someone or any of my advisors do,
we'll evaluate your comfort.
All right.
And based on your financial goals, your time
horizon, uh, if you're young with decades before
you retire, you probably can afford more risk.
Whereas if you're nearing retirement, maybe more conservative
in the investments.
We also look at what are you currently
doing?
You know, so if I meet somebody and
you know, they're like me, I've never had
a job.
I've always owned a business.
So, uh, pretty well, you can assume I'm
a bigger risk taker than the average, average
person.
Uh, then I'm probably going to be talking
with someone and say, Hey, you've been, you
know, previously you've taken on more risk and
things like that.
Is this something that you want to continue
on your investment side?
Or is it something you want to have
separate, uh, more conservative outlook on your investments
versus what you're doing for your living or
your business or something like that.
And so we talk about those kinds of
things.
I also have asked people, you know, if
the market were to take a 20%
dip right now, how would you feel about
that?
And it's funny when I ask people that
one of them will say, that's great, man.
I'll, I'll buy, I'll be buying in.
That'll be a great opportunity.
And then other people, you can just see
them kind of sigh that they wouldn't be
that happy about that.
They don't look at it as an opportunity.
And so we start talking to people, get
to know people and the best return on
your money is the, the most amount of
risk that doesn't cause you to, um, panic
and, you know, call and say, Hey, we
got to get out of this or whatever
it may be.
And so we kind of do that.
Then what we do is we diversify.
So we start with risk tolerance.
Then we look at diversifying and that allows
us to have different types of investments.
So when one goes down, the other one
is steady.
Uh, that kind of thing that stocks, bonds,
insurance, you know, even if you had real
estate, uh, if you are, um, thinking about
that, um, you know, that would be another,
another Avenue that you start diversifying.
So we diversify.
Uh, we look at low cost options, uh,
to do this.
Uh, if you, you may be in a
managed account, like a mutual fund, professional money
management, or we may do, uh, ETFs, which
have a little bit better, uh, tax, you
know, um, opportunity.
If you're in something that's not qualified, um,
any retirement plans, uh, we didn't rebalance the
portfolio periodically.
Uh, if we have big moves in the
market, we may rebalance or typically, uh, if
we are trying to keep a 60 40
portfolio stock bond, then we're going to, when
we do annual reviews, we'll take a look
at that and, and decide if we are
pulling money.
Uh, I tend to, when the market, we
have big up markets, like right now, I'm
probably going to pull from the up markets.
I'm going to sell at the top with
the idea of providing income, say for this
coming year.
Uh, if we have a down market, we
would probably look at the bond portion, uh,
which would be more conservative and use that
to provide the income or even some cash,
whatever it may be.
So now what we're doing is we determine
the risk tolerance.
We diversify the portfolio.
We look at low costs, uh, alternatives, um,
you know, to where you get, you know,
you're not paying a big management fee to
an investment firm that might even not even,
uh, outperform the market.
We rebalance.
So now we're moving along.
Uh, we're going to focus on high growth
investments early when building wealth, uh, focus on
investments, high growth, potential stocks.
You know, um, you may be a hundred
percent of the market.
Uh, and the idea behind that when you're
young is, is that every time the market
goes down, you're buying, we believe in dollar
cost averaging, uh, which allows us to be
consistently buying more shares, uh, when it's discounted.
So we buy more discounted shares and less
over higher price shares with the idea that
you get a lower cost over time.
So what I believe is this, we, when
we first get started, we look at a
goal and if the goal is to accumulate
X, uh, then what we do then is
we put that number, we put a time
horizon, that's the goal.
And then we look at when we want
to get there, what's realistic 20 years from
now, 30 years, whatever it may be.
And then we come up with some assumed
interest rates.
We think we can get this or this
or this.
And then from there, we have a financial
independence number.
If you go to Roy Matlock jr.com,
we have put together, uh, your fin, uh,
number.
Uh, and if you go in there under
the resources, uh, we have put together a
cool deal that you can actually go to
the website.
And, and if you go up to the
resources page at the top under financial planning
and you go and you'll find, uh, financial
calculators and it's the retirement plan or retirement
savings goal calculator.
And when you click on that, you'll be
able to go in there and says, how
much do you have now?
Uh, how much do you think you'll need
after taxes?
Okay.
When you retire, what is, uh, the annual
income you expect to receive from other sources
like social security, whatever it may be pension.
We put your age, we put your goal.
Uh, it calculates all this.
We're going to retire, you know, at what
age and we're going to estimate a tax
rate and it's going to say, okay, here
is your financial independence number.
Uh, 30 years, $682 a month.
If you get 10% on your money
or 9% on your money, you will
be where you want to be.
And we inflate it.
We do all that kind of stuff, every
bit of it, but you can go to
the retirement calculator and it's sitting, uh, on
Roy Matlock jr.com in the resources.
All right.
So now what we're doing is, is we
are, um, setting up, you know, the, uh,
risk tolerance.
We got, uh, the time horizon.
We're rebalancing.
Uh, we're doing all these kinds of things.
We adjust accordingly as our life changes.
Uh, we become different.
You know, I, one of the things that
I do on the advice side, as I
look at what you have saved now, let's
say you're in your mid fifties, late fifties,
and you've got a million bucks in your
retirement account and you're putting $20,000 a
year and you expect to work another five
years.
So you're going to put in a hundred
grand, but you already got a million.
So we're going to do two things.
We're going to make the, uh, big amount,
the million dollars.
We're going to probably be more conservative with
that.
Uh, because that's the most important thing you
have, but on the, uh, investments that you're
putting in monthly, we may be doing, uh,
you know, uh, growth investments to take advantage
of dollar cost averaging and so on.
So we're going to adjust that, uh, accordingly.
Uh, we've got our goal factor and undesired
lifestyle, inflation, life expectancy.
We use the online calculator.
You can do that at Roy Mountlake jr
.com.
Then we're going to decide which tax advantage
accounts that we're going to put our money
in.
Are we going to put it into pre
-tax or after-tax you've got matching funds
through your job, potentially a 401k, 403b, et
cetera, 457.
Uh, we have Roth IRAs that we can
do stuff with.
And so we're starting to put together this
plan and it's just kind of a, here
we go, this is where it is.
Step number one, step number two, step number
three.
We're going to check the boxes off and
put yourself in a good position.
My name is Roy Mountlake jr.
If you would like to speak with one
of our advisors, a phone call is free
6 1 5 8 4 3 29 99.
We'll be right back.
All right.
Roy Mountlake jr.
Here.
And, uh, we're going to segment three and,
um, we're talking about retirement planning and we're
going to get into some of the other
stuff, college plannings, different things like that, but
the, um, so now we're setting our retirement
goals and if you just tuned in, you
can go to Roy Mountlake jr.com and
find out exactly what the, uh, your N
number is financial independence number in our resource
tab, calculate where you're at now, what you've
saved, put in the interest rates, stuff like
that.
It's just a tool to help you plan.
Um, you know, everything you do, if you
put it on paper, um, it gets better.
If you look at it every day, it
gets better.
It's just called managing anything you manage, I
think improves about 20%.
And so some things like your financial plan,
if you've got a plan, I mean, you
know, I'm one of these guys that I
get up in the morning.
I look at my stuff every day.
I mean, that's what I do.
And a lot of people, you know, I
tell them if it bothers you, um, you
didn't don't do that, but for me, I
like to see, um, you know, I look
at where I'm at.
You know, I've been doing that for years.
I'm, you know, my bank balances, I get
a text every morning.
You know, that's just the way I operate,
but because of that, I manage it.
And, uh, I look at stuff and I
catch stuff and you know, that's the way
you do it.
But anyway, um, so now what we're doing,
we got retirement goals.
We're going to choose the right account.
Uh, you've got after tax money that is
gross tax free.
That's a Roth or a Roth 401k, four
or three day, whatever it may be.
And then you've got pre-tax, uh, where
you can take a deduction now, but you
pay taxes later.
And, uh, if you do a, uh, pre
-tax account, you're going to have to start
paying, uh, drawing on it at age 73,
pretty much all of your retirement accounts, anything
you get tax deferral on, you're going to
need to leave it to 59 and a
half, or you're going to get penalized if
you pull it out.
Roths do have some little, you know, where
you leave it in five years, you can
pull your principal out.
But the point being is, is that all
of the things that you get deductions and
deferral on have got some rules to it.
You know, Ross, you pay the taxes now
and you don't pay it later.
Uh, you got 59 and a half.
If you do pre-tax traditional, whatever it
may be, um, you can get a deduction
now and then, uh, but you pay taxes
later, a lot of times I'll tell people,
how do you determine, should you do a
Roth or should you do a pre-tax?
A lot of it has to do with
when you get started, you know, if you're
young and you're, uh, you know, starting out
saving money, you're going to have a big,
you know, big, big account later, a Roth
may make more sense because it's potentially possible
that if you, uh, retire, you're going to
have your income go up, all right.
If you had a traditional IRA, but the
other side is, is that, you know, if
you're, uh, waiting, um, you were behind maybe,
and you have a good income, uh, it's
possible that your tax deduction today will be
more valuable than, um, waiting.
So why not deduct it?
Now I tell people in many cases, you
can buy one, get one free.
So you can go throw in, let's say
you're in your fifties and you, uh, put
in the, uh, maximum, which is including your
catch up, which is 24, five is your,
your below 50, and then you get an
$8,000 catch up.
So you're at 32,500.
You can put in.
Well, if you're a high income earner, here's
what you would do.
You would put in 32, five and deduct
it.
That'll save you about 10,000 bucks at
10,000 bucks.
You can throw it into a backdoor Roth
IRA and put 8,600 in.
And now what you did is you bought
one and got one free.
Now what you did is you've got your
deductible retirement account.
You got your matching funds, all the kind
of stuff that goes on like that.
But then the tax savings alone ended up
funding a tax-free Roth IRA.
So we do things like that.
And the way we determine that is we
project your income, uh, when you retire versus
your income now.
And I see it many times where, you
know, people waited, but then their income is
really up now.
So they're getting a bigger tax deduction.
So it may make more sense that way.
We also, uh, look at it, uh, when
you retire, you know, how, what's social security
going to mean to you if you have
a lot of money, uh, you know, Ross
getting some conversions as possible.
You don't pay any taxes, um, on your,
uh, social security.
So there's all these different things that we
do.
There's other options like health savings accounts.
In many cases, if you have high deductible
plans, you can put up to a married
over 8,000 a year into that 4
,000, a little over 4,000.
If you are single, uh, and then what
we do, we want to maximize our contributions
if at all possible at very minimum, we
want to make sure that we're getting our,
our matching funds.
That's free money.
If I put in, if the company tells
me they're giving me 3%.
A match.
Well, that's a, that's free money.
I put in three and I get three,
that's a hundred percent return right off the
bat.
And so I want to do that.
Then as a moving closer to retirement, I'm
going to decide when it takes social security,
generally speaking, the sooner you take it, uh,
the better if you're not working.
If you are working, I generally will tell
people to wait until they're full social security
age at 67, even if they're continuing to
work.
And then what we do is we just
draft the social security payment into an investment.
A rule of thumb, if you wait from
66 and a half, whatever it is, 70,
typically the increase you'll get at 70 is
about 10 years of income before you'll be
able to catch up.
And who knows?
I mean, uh, that doesn't include investments.
And so I tend to tell people, take
it and let's take the social security and,
uh, save it.
Many cases, if you take social security allows
you to put it into a deductible account
and now what did you get?
You got social security, you deducted.
I mean, there's just a lot of ways
to do stuff like that.
Uh, when we, we retire, we start looking
at different, um, places.
We're going to get our income from some
of you have pensions.
I met with a police officer just this
week, been a client of mine for a
long time.
He's got a pension and he's got, you
know, going to have social security.
He's going to have, um, um, investment income.
You know, we may throw some annuities in
there, but the long and short of it
is, is that we've got three or four
different income streams.
Maybe you have a business you're going to
sell, or maybe you have a business that
you're going to keep and it's going to
provide you that.
Then we look at, uh, how much can
we withdraw, uh, in order to, um, be
safe.
Uh, what is a safe withdrawal amount?
That's when we bring annuities in, uh, to
the mix and you know, here's, here's what
an annuity does.
An annuity gives you a lifetime income could
be a joint life income.
If you're married, you can buy it to
do that.
And that means it'll pay for as long
as either one of you live.
When you buy an annuity, the mindset is,
is that we're going to take this money
and we're going to turn it over to
an insurance company and they are going to
give us a lifetime income.
But the idea behind it is we hope
there's no money left in that.
And the reason we hope that is, is
that we outlived our money.
We got into the insurance company's pocket.
The benefit of an annuity is it allows
you to pull more money without the fear
of bad markets.
And then what happens, your money goes away
and your income stops.
So, and, uh, the primary reason if you're
at retirement, you buy an annuity is to
offset the risk of living too long and,
um, and that is what an annuity is
for now.
Are we going to put all of your
money in an annuity?
Absolutely not.
It might be a third of your money,
whatever it may be, depending on where you're
at.
Then the rest of it is your inheritance
and your inflation guard.
So if we have money, uh, that we
know we have social security and we have
a guarantee already set up in the annuity,
then at that point, we're in a good
position at a couple of just recently, they
have 4,400 a month in a new
and social security coming in.
We put 200,000 into an annuity.
They got them 1600 a month.
Now they have 6,000 a month in
their house has paid for the rest of
the money, we stuck it into a 75
25 stock bond portfolio, which allows us to
add income later when inflation kicks in.
And if we have 75%, that's a good
growth model.
Uh, 25% is in a bond.
So if we have a down market and
they needed more money, we'd pull the bond,
but the idea is that's going to, that's
going to be the inheritance and we got
a guaranteed income coming in.
So now this is kind of the way
planning works.
When you get into your retirement, we look
at, okay, what is the best way to
deal with our taxes when we retire?
Uh, should we convert, uh, some of our,
uh, retirement plans to Roth IRAs now that
our income's down.
And so a lot of times that's what
we'll do there.
Um, all these different things go into putting
the plan together, uh, with the idea that
one day, um, you know, you're going to
retire and you want to be able to
have a secure and comfortable retirement.
You want to be able to not worry
about whether or not you're going to be
okay.
I mean, that's what it's all about.
And that's why we work and we save
and we put aside our money with one
day we are comfortable.
So my name is Roy Matlock Jr. If
you would like a review, call 615-843
-2999 last segment coming up.
All right.
Roy Matlock Jr. Here last segment.
And we've been talking about the offense and,
uh, really it's going to go into two
different shows.
If you want to go to roymatlockjr.com
or the Roy Matlock Jr. Money and Business
Hour, you can get the podcast.
And last week we did the defense.
Today's the offense.
And I've been really, you know, it took
an hour on the defense.
Now I think I'm going to end up
taking, you know, two hours almost on the
offense, so very detailed on putting together a
financial plan.
And so if you would like help, uh,
actually implementing, uh, what we teach, uh, just
reach out to roymatlockjr.com and schedule a,
uh, review or do any of the downloads,
or you can call 615-843-2999, which
you, uh, straightened out and ready to go
and automate it.
So now we've talked about different retirement plans.
You know, what should you do?
How do you follow a safe retirement route?
You know, I talked about, uh, annuities.
I've talked about 401ks, when to draw social
security, a couple other things that I want
to hit that are important.
Uh, and that's a college, uh, educational savings
accounts.
So one of the things that you can
do is utilize 529 or what's called an
ESA.
You also have something called a, uh, um,
ATMA or UGMA, depending on the state uniform
gift or uniform transfer, uh, to mine or
some, you can, but basically what it is,
is, is if you put it into 529,
it can have been, it's used for college,
it grows tax-free.
It eventually can turn into almost like a
Roth IRA, uh, for quality, but use it
for qualified educational expenses.
So if you start young, um, you put
that in and you let it grow tax
-free.
It's used for college though.
You can also move it from one beneficiary
to the next.
So let's say one of them, your kids
get a scholarship and the other, uh, doesn't,
you can move it.
And so it's really kind of very flexible
that way.
You can also do custodial accounts.
It's where you, uh, uh, put money aside.
It gets favorable tax treatment.
Um, but you are the custodian and depending
on the state, uh, they get access to
it between 18 and 25 years old, uh,
depending on who, um, which state you're in
and so, um, for instance, that money, uh,
could be set aside into a fund and
your mindset is, well, I'm going to give
them that money with the intention that, you
know, when they get out on their own,
they can buy a I had one of
my clients years ago, uh, it was a
combination of custodial plan.
And then on top of that, he worked
at Wendy's and he put aside money as
a 16 year old, actually before 16.
He was one of those guys that was
all into it, saving his money and put
it in there and I did, uh, probably
15 years later, I had a big investment,
uh, seminar and he stood up and, um,
he, he told me, you know, I recognized
who he was and he said, Hey, I
just want you to know that money I
accumulated, uh, while I was a kid, uh,
I just paid, put a down payment on
a house and I've got $29,000 left
over and he was in his late twenties,
uh, at the time.
And I'm like, Hey, you know, you, um,
go and teach your kids young, uh, what
to do.
One of the things that I've always recommended
is, um, I did this with my kids
is, uh, I pulled in a mutual fund
company up and I told him, I said,
I want you to look at these different,
different choices and I want you to click
on it and I want you to look
at the companies that they own.
And then once you do that, I want
you to tell me which one you want
to go into.
So I showed him all these growth funds
and stuff like that.
And one of them, um, he looked at
it and he said, oh, there's GameStop.
They have a GameStop, you know?
And so anyway, they, he went through that
and he went through some other ones and
we bought that fund.
And that was one of the funds that
we set up.
You put $250 in it and you can
add to it anytime.
You know, normally you've been, you know, when
you're a kid, you know, it's like they
take you to the bank and it's a
big deal, you get your bank account.
And so in this case, rather than take
them to the bank, um, get all your
kids and grandkids investing, you know, show them
how it works and we do those accounts
for 250 bucks, and then if you have
a checking account added to it, you can
add any amount of money to it anytime
and, uh, you can look at it and
teach and learn investments, that kind of stuff.
So those are things that, you know, I've
always done.
I did a family financial workshop.
It came one day as a result of,
uh, had one of my nieces.
Um, we've got, my mother just passed away
at one Oh two.
And, um, you know, we had five generations.
She was born in 1923 and we had
a, um, one of the babies, uh, was
born in 2023 and, you know, there's kids
running around everywhere.
I got five, three sisters and a brother.
And so anyway, I thought, man, all these
little kids, I need to have an account.
And so I did a family financial workshop
and I gifted, uh, to every one of
the kids on those 27 of them, a
$250 account.
And from there I thought, man, everybody should
know that, but they had to show up
if they're teenagers and, um, you know, showed
them how it worked and stuff like that.
And, um, so we did a bunch of
those.
Well, what ended up happening, um, was it
evolved into doing family financial workshops.
And we did a big one online.
We had about 4,000 people attend one
of our webinars, uh, where we encouraged teenagers
and so, uh, to jump in with their
parents and now for our clients and for
any of you that have a big family,
we would do something like that for you.
A family financial workshop.
If they're 10, 11, 12 years old, they
can learn, you know, uh, how one of
these things works and, uh, and you get
everything set up and you can do a
family, you know, generational type thing.
So that's what we do there.
So let's talk about the, uh, the key
points of the offense.
The first one is pay yourself first.
What does that mean?
We want to make sure that every month
we have an automated, um, you know, draft
coming out of your account.
Uh, 50 bucks a month at 9%, it's
about a quarter million dollars over 40 years.
Uh, if you say to yourself right now,
what's an extra 250,000 mean to me
right now, that's 50 bucks a month over
40 years.
And so we pay ourself first.
How do we do that?
We have automated plans, either out of our
checking account or maybe through a retirement account,
uh, through our work.
If it's, if it's available, uh, we need
to understand compound interest.
Compounding periods matter.
If you get 4% on your money,
it doubles in 18 years.
If you get 12% on your money,
it doubles in six years and so on.
It's called the rule of 72.
Once you learn that you look at making
a purchase.
I was talking to someone, they were talking
about spending $17,000.
I thought it was a bad idea.
I said, just keep in mind over 30
years, uh, that's 500,000 that, that that
17,000 is costing you.
Now it doesn't mean that we're not going
to save money and invest money and have
fun too.
But the rule of thumb is, is that
you ought to have a goal, uh, to
save 25% of your income at a
minimum to get, to get yourself in a
good spot, 10%, assuming that you do some
things that absolutely matter, which is understand compound
interest, get a good rate of return, give
it, give yourself time.
And what I mean by that is start
now.
And I ask people, when do you think
the best time to start today, tomorrow, or
let's wait 10 years.
No, let's do it now.
All right.
Uh, then, so we got compounded rate of
return.
Uh, we got, uh, time and consistency, and
then we will look at diversification is another
part of the offense when it comes to
investment.
Uh, diversification is, you know, put it across
different asset classes.
It's like when someone's young and getting started,
we may be all in growth funds, but
we may have an international fund.
We may have a large cap growth fund,
a small cap growth fund, you know, mid
cap growth fund, whatever it may be.
And so what we're doing is we're diversifying
across different asset classes, then we rebalance it.
Uh, we look at tax planning.
That's part of, of how we do things.
You know, what makes sense?
Maybe we should put this money aside.
We're never going to use it.
We don't think let's put it into like
a, an annuity, a variable annuity, or it's
called a Ryla.
Both of those have market upside, some downside
risk or some protected downside risk or all
of the risks, depending on what you want
to do.
I have a variable annuities that, you know,
put in, I saw one of them, I
put in a 50 grand and it grew
to like 130 grand over a six or
seven year period.
And it compounded, uh, out like that tax
deferred.
And so things like that, I look at,
why do I want to pay taxes on
money I'm not using?
Uh, if you want to make a charitable
contribution, you can make it from your retirement
account, uh, and that way you're not paying
taxes.
Uh, on, if you have a traditional IRA,
you can move money from your traditional IRA
and donate it to the church churches, um,
um, charitable contribution, and you don't have to
pay taxes on it.
Now, if you take it out of your
IRA, you pay your taxes and then you
make the donation.
All right.
This way you get your donation tax deduction
and you don't pay taxes on it when
you pull it out.
So it's things like that.
If you're doing charitable given.
So when I'm looking at the overall picture,
I'm looking at investment recommendations, retirement recommendations, college
planning, I'm looking at tax strategies to be
able to, you know, do the most tax
sufficient way of doing things.
I look at wealth transfer and legacy planning.
You know, one of the things that I
did, I worked with my mom and dad.
And, um, you know, what a story, um,
they retired, uh, 40 years ago.
And, uh, you know, we saw, you know,
I just started in the business, um, doing
advisory and I set them up.
And the cool part was, was my mother
lived at one Oh two.
And I always tell people that, uh, the
great news, she lived at one Oh two,
the even better news is she had no
financial worries during that time.
She didn't run out of money when she
was 85 or anything like that.
And so, um, how do we do that?
We put together good investment strategies.
Uh, we put together, um, living trust, revocable,
living trust, healthcare, power of attorneys, financial power,
attorneys, uh, living will.
All of the things were in place from
the very beginning.
We, um, took that money, put it into,
uh, an irrevocable trust, which is like a
trust fund.
Why did we do that?
When my father passed, we did that because
that is income and asset protection.
So, uh, there's so many things that go
into making it make sense.
And so what we do, we look at
the strategies and we go from the least,
uh, aggressive and we have a piece of
that maybe in a money market or a
government bond, something like that.
Uh, we look at tax there's possible.
We have some tax accumulate, uh, tax-free
stuff, uh, all the way to the most
aggressive, uh, type investments.
So that's how we go and we put
things together.
But the old mindset is, is you become
an owner, not a loaner.
You don't just loan, loan your money to
the bank.
Uh, the bank makes a spread.
Why wouldn't you just own the bank?
How do you own the bank?
The bank's got a system.
Uh, they borrow the money at 3%
or zero, depending on what it, what they
pay you.
And then they load into someone at 21
% on a credit card and they make
the spread.
I think they make more money than, uh,
than, uh, the saver does.
So why wouldn't you own the bank?
How would you do that?
Well, we go in and we buy stock
in the bank, but we don't know which
bank to buy.
So we hire professional money managers to do
that kind of stuff.
And so if you're tuning in right now,
I'm going to give you all the resources
you can do.
If you go to, uh, roymountlankjr.com, go
to the calculators and you just go to
financial planning and resources.
And then down at the bottom, you'll see
the financial calculator.
It will tell you how much insurance you
need.
It'll tell you how much you need to
save for retirement, or you can schedule a
call at 6 1 5 8 4 3
29 99.
Talk to you next week.
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