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HEBE: Bears, where are you?

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: Where are you
bears?

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HEBE: Where are you bears?

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: Bears, where
are you?

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HEBE: Bears, where are you?

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: Deep in the
forests of Transylvania in

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Romania, Europe's largest
population of brown bears still

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roam freely. But what does that
mean when a busy city like

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Brașov sits right on their
doorstep and when a family hike

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in the Transylvanian forests
becomes a search for bears? I'm

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Rosie Holdsworth and you're
listening to Wild Tales,

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European Brown Bears.

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HEBE: Goodness me, mummy

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: Goodness me,
Hebe.

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So we're mixing things up today
and doing things a little bit

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differently because I'm
interrupting my lovely holiday

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in Transylvania in Romania to
tell you a little bit about what

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we're up to today. So I am with
my lovely husband Rob and our

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little girl Hebe. We are hiking
in the Tampa Hills above Brașov

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which is a really beautiful
medieval town.

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About three hours north of
Bucharest, the capital, and we

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are going to see if we can see
some wildlife and hopefully spot

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some signs of bears.

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It's very beautiful November
day, the sun's shining, the

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leaves are crunching

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HEBE: The bears of scared off by
our bells.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: And the bears
are scared off by our bells.

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That's my toddler on my back. So
you can hear the bells that

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we've brought with us and that's
because bears don't like to be

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surprised.

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Nobody likes to be surprised but
bears particularly dislike being

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surprised. So we're staying safe
by making lots of noise. Which

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is easy when you've got a
toddler and they like to sing as

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you walk. But we'll keep
looking. But when we were out

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the other day we did see some
bear tracks which were very

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fresh from that morning. So
we're hopeful that before we

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have to go home we might see
bears.

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So what exactly are my family
and I walking amongst? Csaba

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Domokos is a biologist with a
Romanian conservation charity

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called Milvus Group and he spent
more than 20 years working with

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brown bears here in
Transylvania. So he knows their

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habits very well.

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CSABA DOMOKOS: Brown bears in
Europe are basically the largest

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land predators. We call them
large carnivores but they are in

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fact omnivores.

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It's a brown bear. But the name
can be somewhat misleading

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because brown bears' color can
actually range from a bright

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yellow to a shiny black. For
example, here in Romania, among

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the rural population, there are
all kinds of myths about black

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bears and all these other
species.

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And this is mainly because of
this very wide range of colors

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they can have. And also the very
wide range of body sizes, just

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as with people.

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So we have like smaller bears
and then we have... true

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behemoths as well.

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The more you go towards the
north, their bodies get usually

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bigger and bigger. But let's say
a very big bear in Romania would

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be something up to 400 kilograms
or something like this. And that

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animal is already very, very
big.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: To give you
some context, that's the

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equivalent weight of five grown
men.

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CSABA DOMOKOS: They are
incredibly strong animals, so

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you cannot compare them really
to anything else in nature, I

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think.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: That includes
their rather unusual shape.

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CSABA DOMOKOS: They do have a
shoulder hump and it's basically

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made up mostly from muscle. They
use these huge muscles, for

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example, to turn over rocks to
look for ants underneath them.

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So bears have five fingers
basically on each pole and each

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of the fingers ends in a huge
claw which then they use for

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digging up stuff or they use
them as precision tools for

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example for opening clams and
feeding on clams.

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They are big, powerful animals.
People see them usually and they

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have this strange type of body
and then they somehow assume

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that it's a slow animal somehow,
but they are incredibly fast.

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They can easily reach up to 50
kilometers per hour. They can

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basically outrun a racehorse. So
it's really an unbelievable

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animal.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: So with all of
the incredible wildlife that

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Transylvania has to offer, what
is it about bears particularly

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that has got me in bear fever
and scuttling about in the

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woods, desperate to see any
signs of them? I mean, I've

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always loved bears. They're one
of my favourite animals.

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It kind of goes back to
childhood. We used to watch The

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Jungle Book on repeat whenever
we went to my granny and

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grandpa's house. And I think
Baloo the bear just was like the

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character that kind of really
chimed with me the most.

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They're such big, charismatic,
fascinating creatures. The fact

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that they're still here and
they're still doing their bear

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thing minding their own
business, bumbling about in the

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woods.

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It's just amazing when you think
about the change that's happened

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in some of these habitats and
the pressures that those animals

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are under, in what is quite a
small area. Romania is not a

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massive country but they're
still here. They've carved out

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their niche and they're being
really really successful. So, I

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would absolutely love to see
them whilst we're here.

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Which does make you wonder just
how many bears are actually out

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here.

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CSABA DOMOKOS: The exact size of
the Romanian bear population is

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really a subject of hot debates
for many years now. The official

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numbers put this population
around 10,000 individuals, but

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actually a little bit above
this. It's probably the biggest

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national population of brown
bears in Europe, actually.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: A massive
population for a country of this

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size. Romania was kind of
Eastern Europe's last stronghold

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for the brown bears. Due to
conservation efforts and

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protection, they've been able to
spread back through the

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Carpathians, out into other
countries, and this is kind of

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where the recovery of the
European brown bear population

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has started from.

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But we're probably only about an
hour out of the city centre of

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Brașov, and there are bears
here, so that's absolutely

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incredible.

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CSABA DOMOKOS: So in Romania, in
reality, bears share their

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habitats with people. People
from Western Europe tend to

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think of Romania as somehow like
the land of wilderness, which in

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a way it is.

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Every single individual bear
needs an area usually of several

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hundred square kilometers. And
if you think about it like that,

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then there is actually not a lot
of space left wild in Romania.

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So, basically every bear here
will eventually come into

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contact with people and most of
the individuals of the Romanian

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bear population spend at least a
few good months of their lives

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each year close to cities and to
villages.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: What are they
for?

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HEBE: Bears scared off by our
bears, mommy.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: That's right,
the bears are scared off by our

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bears. We keep ourselves safe.

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We're doing all the right
things, making plenty of noise,

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but it does raise another
question. What are the bears

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actually eating out here?

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CSABA DOMOKOS: They are really
carnivores that have adapted to

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some degree to also eating
plants.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: Which is good
news for me and my family.

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CSABA DOMOKOS: They eat a lot of
plants, but they also eat a lot

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of insects, and then they also
actively hunt, but they also

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scavenge. Both animals that died
of natural causes and the prey

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of other carnivore species,
because they share their

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habitats with grey wolves and
with Eurasian lynx. So whenever

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they can, they will actually try
and steal the prey of this other

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species as well.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: When you're at
the top of the food chain, you

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can do that.

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CSABA DOMOKOS: One of the most
important diet items for brown

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bears are ants, in a somewhat
surprising way. And they eat

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basically anthills with ants
eggs and larvae and with dirt.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: But there's
one thing that bears seem to

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love more than anything else.

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CSABA DOMOKOS: They actually do
like honey a lot and they will

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try to raid both wild bees and
beekeeper's property as well and

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they do raid them quite often.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: It's not just
about having a sweet tooth.

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CSABA DOMOKOS: Honey is
extremely nutritious. It's

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really high on calories and
bears are basically machines

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looking for a very high calorie
intake, especially when they

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start preparing for their winter
sleep, they have to accumulate a

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huge amount of fat to be able to
live from it throughout the

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winter.

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There are some studies
suggesting that they can consume

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up to 20,000 calories every
single day. And honey is really,

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really high on calories, so
whenever they can, they will

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actually go for it.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: So right now,
these bears are eating

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constantly, preparing for what
comes next.

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So we're deep into autumn, it's
November, and the bears are

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definitely starting to think
about hibernating. So far it's

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been pretty mild, there's not
been much frost here, a lot of

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the bears are still active, and
they've kind of, every year

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they've got to do this balancing
act really, between staying out

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of hibernation long enough to
put on enough fat stores to see

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them through the winter, versus
staying out too long and kind of

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burning those fat stores whilst
they search for more food.

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CSABA DOMOKOS: This is a really
neat adaptation actually to the

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scarcity of food. It's simply a
way of preserving energy of time

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when food is really scarce. So
what they have to do is that

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they accumulate a huge amount of
fat before that. In Romania,

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usually they go into this winter
sleep somewhere around December.

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In this area where I work, in
Romania's Eastern Carpathians,

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they dig dens out for
themselves. We don't have to

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imagine it like a big cave or
anything. It's basically the

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size of the bear. So it normally
has a small entrance, a really

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small one. Sometimes it's
surprising how a big animal can

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squeeze through something like
that. Then usually a small

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corridor leading to a chamber.
And the smaller it is, actually

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the better it is because it can
keep it partially warm

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throughout the winter.

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A bear will simply curl up
inside one of these dens and

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then spend several months there
without eating or drinking or

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moving actually. This is also a
period when they are most

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exposed to disturbance by people
and this can be actually quite

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dangerous for people and for
bears alike.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: A bear
suddenly woken from its winter

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torpor is likely to feel
threatened and defend itself.

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Which is why stumbling across a
hibernating bear is something

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you really want to avoid.

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But as the days begin to
lengthen and the first signs of

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spring appear...

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CSABA DOMOKOS: The first to
emerge are basically males and

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then females that are single or
females that are accompanied by

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cubs of last year, so
two-year-old cubs. And then the

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last ones to come out, are the
females with newborn cubs,

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because this is one of the other
very neat adaptations of bears,

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that they actually give birth to
their cubs during this winter

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sleep time.

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This is also why it's so
important that they put on a lot

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of fat before that, because then
they will not feed or drink.

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Pregnant females, they will give
birth and they will nurture

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their cubs entirely from the fat
reserve they have accumulated

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before that.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: As a mum
myself, that completely blows my

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mind. Breastfeeding humans need
about 500 extra calories a day.

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I ate an enormous amount of cake
on maternity leave. But mother

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bears survive the whole winter
on stored fat reserves, and

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often there's more than one
newborn cub to feed.

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CSABA DOMOKOS: So a brown bear
would normally have somewhere

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around two or three cubs
actually. In exceptional cases

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there have been also five.
Usually less than 50% of those

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cubs actually reach the age of
one year.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: Predators such
as humans, wolves and even other

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bears play a part in this.

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CSABA DOMOKOS: Life is difficult
in the forest.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: But today on
our walk there are bears still

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out there, eating, preparing and
waiting for winter, which means

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that there's still a chance my
family and I might spot one or

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two.

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HEBE: Bears where are you?

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: Where are you
bears?

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HEBE: Where are you bears?

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CSABA DOMOKOS: Because the bear
population in Romania is so

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large and also because they're
quite close to some fairly big

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kind of urban centres, there is
quite a big issue with human

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wildlife conflict in Romania. So
the Romanian government is kind

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of looking at that and looking
at measures that can be put in

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place to kind of keep people and
keep the bears safe. Because

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where those conflicts happen,
obviously not only are people in

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danger, but the bears are as
well. And it kind of you need

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public trust and public opinion
on your side for conservation to

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be successful.

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When living together with bears,
on one hand they do cause

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damages to human property, they
occasionally kill livestock,

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they actively hunt sheep and
cattle sometimes, and then they

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also cause damages in
agricultural crops, for example

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in fruit trees.

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So they really like these apples
and pears and plums. But they

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don't simply just eat the
fruits, then they will also

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break the trees while getting
the fruit. Nowadays we have a

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lot of corn all over in Romania,
so they can cause extensive

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damages in corn fields as well.

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Probably the most sensitive
issue regarding bears is that

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they can also cause injuries to
people and occasionally, sadly.

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They can also kill people. These
kind of incidents are quite

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rare, even in Romania, I would
say.

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And they absolutely pale
compared to any other cause of

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human mortality. So I think we
have somewhere around

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20-something people killed in
the last 20 years by bears. In

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most cases, these attacks are
not by accident. They have been

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somehow provoked by people. So,
we cannot somehow separate bears

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from people or people from
bears.

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And then we somehow have to find
a way to coexist with them. This

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is, I think, possible. And the
best proof for it is the fact

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that we still have bears. I
think that maintaining some kind

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of social tolerance... Or social
acceptance towards these animals

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is really crucial for their
long-term survival.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: And for Csaba,
a biologist who works with large

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carnivores, coexistence
sometimes means getting

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dangerously close.

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CSABA DOMOKOS: I had a lot of
very close encounters throughout

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the years with bears and
probably one of the most

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dangerous thing that we
occasionally have to do is to

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free bears from this wire snare
setup by poachers. Because these

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are really uncontrolled
situations, you cannot really

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tell until it's too late how a
bear is caught in those wire

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snares. A lot of times they are
physically hurting, and these

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are really dangerous situations.

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There have been a few cases when
we approached these animals, you

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know, they actually broke these
wires that were holding them in

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place.

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We had cases when there was a
mother caught in a snare and

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there was its cub caught in
another snare and I was in

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between them and the mother
broke the snare. And even in

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this case you know she just ran
away and even abandoned her cub.

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This somehow for me this somehow
conveys the message that in most

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cases you are fine.

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Brown bear attacks are not
predatory attacks. They happen

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out of self-defense. And this is
actually why most of the people

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will actually survive being
attacked by a brown bear. Simply

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because the bear is trying to
eliminate the danger.

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And when you are knocked down on
the ground or something, after a

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00:18:01,164 --> 00:18:04,087
while, the bear will actually
most of the time abandon the

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person there and flee. So what
it does from his perception is

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that he's trying to eliminate
that immediate threat.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: And if you
were to cross paths with a brown

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00:18:19,310 --> 00:18:20,792
bear, what should you do?

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CSABA DOMOKOS: If a bear is
approaching you and it has

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noticed you, then basically you
have to look as unthreatening as

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00:18:27,737 --> 00:18:31,260
possible. So the first thing
should be probably to make the

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bear realise that you're a
person. And you can talk to him,

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not necessarily shouting. You
can raise your and move around

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your hands so that they actually
realize that it's a person. And

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most of the time, this would be
more than enough to scare it

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away.

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If an attack happens, generally,
you will end up on the floor and

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00:18:52,298 --> 00:18:56,061
you should lie on your belly and
try to protect your neck, you

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00:18:56,082 --> 00:18:58,023
know, and try to protect your
soft side.

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00:18:58,624 --> 00:19:00,845
And the most important thing
probably actually is that you

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00:19:00,885 --> 00:19:04,208
should walk around with pepper
spray, bear specific pepper

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00:19:04,248 --> 00:19:08,430
spray. These are highly
effective. I can really affirm

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that that they work.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: So in terms of
keeping ourselves safe from

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00:19:15,154 --> 00:19:17,516
bears that's obviously you know
we've come out into the woods

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00:19:17,876 --> 00:19:20,898
with our toddler. So that's
obviously at the forefront of

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our mind. So we're being mindful
to kind of make lots of noise.

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We've got our bells.

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00:19:26,401 --> 00:19:29,603
Hebe's great at singing songs
and chit-chattering so we're not

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00:19:29,604 --> 00:19:32,345
going to surprise any bears. But
we've also got bear spray with

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00:19:32,346 --> 00:19:36,347
us as well, should we be charged
by a bear. Which we can use just

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to give ourselves a little bit
of space and breathing room.

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CSABA DOMOKOS: I think it really
teaches us somehow to walk

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00:19:42,530 --> 00:19:46,072
around, let's say, in a forest
with really all your senses

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00:19:46,673 --> 00:19:51,936
tuned to the max. And really
looking out for movements from

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the corner of your eyes or
looking out for suspicious

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00:19:56,358 --> 00:19:57,339
sounds, for example.

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ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: Maybe we could
all learn a little from this

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00:20:02,508 --> 00:20:05,970
about tuning in and really
paying attention to the amazing

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nature around us. Even if it's
not a 400 kilo apex predator.

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I'm getting a little bit excited
because Rob stopped and he's got

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00:20:19,216 --> 00:20:22,118
the binoculars out so I'm hoping
he's seen something. Maybe it's

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a bear, I don't know. Let's have
a look.

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So, I might sound a little bit
out of breath, because I got

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very excited and ran, because
Rob got his binoculars out and

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started looking up to the top of
a tree and I thought maybe it's

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bear. Because they are really
really nimble climbers despite

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00:20:41,638 --> 00:20:44,739
their size. They're very good at
climbing. And they do spend some

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00:20:44,779 --> 00:20:48,400
time up in the tops of trees
foraging food and sometimes

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00:20:48,401 --> 00:20:53,603
that's where the cubs go to kind
of get out of the way of danger.

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00:20:53,603 --> 00:20:59,265
So, I very excitedly caught up
but it wasn't a bear. But it was

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quite an exciting thing
nonetheless.

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00:21:01,846 --> 00:21:05,027
So he spotted a load of
Crossbills, which are a really

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00:21:05,067 --> 00:21:08,809
cool species of finch. They do
what they say on the tin,

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00:21:08,809 --> 00:21:12,330
they've got a crossed over bill.
And they're a bird that's

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00:21:12,710 --> 00:21:17,152
specialized in kind of picking
the seeds out of conifer cones,

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00:21:17,152 --> 00:21:18,713
pine cones, that kind of thing.

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So they've evolved and adapted
this funny crossed over bill.

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And, it's quite exciting to see
them.

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It's not a species that I see
very regularly. We do get them

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00:21:30,582 --> 00:21:34,784
in the UK, in Scotland, and in
places where we've got lots of

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00:21:34,824 --> 00:21:38,387
conifer plantations, but I don't
have much of that around where I

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00:21:38,407 --> 00:21:42,070
am, so it's quite an unusual
species. And there's loads of

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00:21:42,130 --> 00:21:44,793
them. They're all chattering
away up in the top of the tree.

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So not a bear, but very exciting
nonetheless.

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So we've just been reflecting as
we wandered through the sunshine

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and next to this beautiful
little stream that this habitat

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00:22:01,867 --> 00:22:04,549
here actually feels pretty
similar to what we've got in

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00:22:04,609 --> 00:22:06,110
kind of the northern half of the
UK.

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00:22:08,823 --> 00:22:11,625
It doesn't feel completely alien
and completely different. These

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00:22:11,665 --> 00:22:16,469
rolling hills and steep-sided
valleys feel really, really very

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00:22:16,549 --> 00:22:20,552
familiar. We were remarking
that, you know, a thousand years

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00:22:20,592 --> 00:22:25,516
ago in the UK, we would have had
this incredible biodiversity and

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different array of species.

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You know, we would have had
Eurasian brown bears, we would

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00:22:29,219 --> 00:22:31,901
have had beavers, we would have
had wolves. We would have had

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00:22:32,341 --> 00:22:35,867
all of these species which are
now missing from our ecosystems

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00:22:35,947 --> 00:22:37,608
and you can really feel the
difference.

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00:22:37,648 --> 00:22:41,549
So, here these woods, they're
not being actively managed by

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00:22:41,609 --> 00:22:44,530
people, but because there's all
of those different species here,

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00:22:44,531 --> 00:22:48,071
you know you've got the wild
boar crunching up the

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00:22:48,131 --> 00:22:50,772
undergrowth and moving things
around and giving opportunities

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00:22:50,812 --> 00:22:52,252
for tree seeds to sprout.

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00:22:52,472 --> 00:22:55,893
We've got big deer species but
they're being moved through the

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00:22:55,894 --> 00:22:59,354
woodland by the wolves and by
the bears. There's lynx who are

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00:22:59,355 --> 00:23:03,303
predating on the smaller deer,
everything's kind of... much

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00:23:03,444 --> 00:23:03,744
more.

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00:23:03,964 --> 00:23:07,107
I'm not saying it's perfect here
because people are everywhere

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00:23:07,147 --> 00:23:10,010
and people are tinkering with
things, but it just feels like

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00:23:10,210 --> 00:23:13,473
much more wild. And it's kind of
a little bit sad really

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00:23:13,513 --> 00:23:16,876
reflecting that at home, you
know, one day it would have been

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00:23:16,916 --> 00:23:20,259
like this and it's not like that
anymore because we've got the

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00:23:20,279 --> 00:23:26,045
population, the pressures, the
numbers of people around and the

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changes that we've made to our
natural environment.

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00:23:38,101 --> 00:23:40,202
CSABA DOMOKOS: But still,
whenever I see a bear, it

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00:23:40,203 --> 00:23:42,864
doesn't really matter if it's
close or if it's further away,

383
00:23:43,004 --> 00:23:48,347
it's still really a mixture of
admiration and this kind of

384
00:23:48,427 --> 00:23:54,590
feeling. And of, well, not
necessarily fear, but you

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00:23:54,871 --> 00:23:58,933
somehow feel that there is
something more than you there in

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00:23:58,934 --> 00:23:59,493
the forest.

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00:24:00,234 --> 00:24:03,576
You can experience this even
without... seeing bears, just

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00:24:03,596 --> 00:24:07,758
simply knowing that you're in a
habitat where there are things

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00:24:07,798 --> 00:24:10,720
that are stronger and bigger and
faster than you.

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00:24:16,303 --> 00:24:18,464
ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: This was the
exact feeling I had when we

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00:24:18,524 --> 00:24:22,066
found the bear print a few days
earlier. It's an amazing primal

392
00:24:22,146 --> 00:24:25,088
thrill that spikes your heart
rate and fires your adrenaline

393
00:24:25,168 --> 00:24:28,289
through the roof. It's Mother
Nature giving you a nudge in the

394
00:24:28,309 --> 00:24:31,031
ribs and saying, remember who's
in charge here.

395
00:24:36,281 --> 00:24:40,605
I'm ready for some hot
chocolate. It's very hot. Slurp.

396
00:24:49,192 --> 00:24:49,913
Oh Oh Isn't that nice?

397
00:24:49,914 --> 00:24:50,493
HEBE: It's very hot.

398
00:24:50,494 --> 00:24:52,495
ROSIE HOLDSWORTH: We'll let it
cool down a bit. Why don't you

399
00:24:52,496 --> 00:24:56,218
put your hands on it and they'll
warm up. Oh, that's nice isn't

400
00:24:56,219 --> 00:24:56,338
it?

401
00:25:03,707 --> 00:25:08,331
So we haven't seen bears
unfortunately but I have had a

402
00:25:08,451 --> 00:25:12,835
fantastic time in the beautiful
beautiful Carpathian Mountains.

403
00:25:13,576 --> 00:25:16,838
Really, really recommend a visit
to Transylvania to anyone who's

404
00:25:16,939 --> 00:25:20,261
able to get here. It is an
incredible place. The culture,

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00:25:20,602 --> 00:25:26,006
the people, the wildlife, the
mountains, it's fantastic. So,

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00:25:26,006 --> 00:25:30,510
from me and from the beautiful
Transylvanian countryside, see

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00:25:30,511 --> 00:25:31,151
you next time.

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Thank you for listening to this
episode of Wild Tales. If you've

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00:25:38,197 --> 00:25:43,400
enjoyed it, why not give us a
follow or a review? And if you'd

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00:25:43,420 --> 00:25:46,362
like to find out more about the
European brown bear in Romania,

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00:25:46,602 --> 00:25:50,385
then head to the episode show
notes. I'm Rosie Holdsworth.

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00:25:50,985 --> 00:25:51,446
Bye-bye.

