The Strange Allure of State Fair Food

Jul 15, 2019, 04:42 AM


How long has it been since fairs felt a little dangerous? Since carnies lounged beside the greased sprockets of rickety rides, speaking their secret language so the rest of us--the "marks"--would not understand? Midways trafficked not only in plush toys but also in dark impulses that seemed even darker against the glare of bright lights.

State fairs always seemed a little safer than the county kind, and way more than those carnivals that just showed up on the edge of town.

How long has it been since fairs felt a little dangerous? Since carnies lounged beside the greased sprockets of rickety rides, speaking their secret language so the rest of us--the "marks"--would not understand? Midways trafficked not only in plush toys but also in dark impulses that seemed even darker against the glare of bright lights. State fairs always seemed a little safer than the county kind, and way more than those carnivals that just showed up on the edge of town.